Hi there,

I am about to swap my old engine for a remanufactured one from Turner Engineering.
Thor 4.0 V8 high compression 9.35-1

And I need some advice...
Any tips on what to do, not to?

Also, I read somwhere that often, on those models, the gearbox ( auto in this case ) can get serious damage when fitting the engine back, any idea of how that happen, how to avoid it?

Thanks in advance
Alibreizh

Im sorry but im not clear on what is being asked here?

The gearbox oil pump engages with the back of the torque converter.
If the torque converter isn't aligned properly, then you will smash the transmission oil pump when you tighten it all down.

The torque converter is often left on the engine when it is removed ( as opposed to disconnecting it from the flex plate first) because it is easier.

Either be careful when you install the engine with the torque converter on it - you will have to be careful and rotate the engine until it engages nicely. This is easy if you have a good engine hoist, but if it's a bit "push and pull" then this could be difficult.

Or, fit the torque converter back into the transmission first, when you can be sure it's seated properly, and then fit up the engine, bolting in the TC once the engine is back in. ( this is a bit fiddly)

Other tips - check the condition of the flex plate ( the adapter plate that connects the crank to the TC. They can crack. Ashcroft do replacements.

Pay close attention to running in instructions.

It's important to keep the engine at 2000 to 2500 revs for 20 mins to bed the camshaft in.

Don't fit synthetic oil until about 2000 miles.
Don't run on lpg when running in (500 ish miles).

If you haven't already, then change the auto trans fluid and filter.
It makes a suprising difference.

Don't fit britpart engine mounts - they are really hard, and transmit vibration badly.

We ran on LPG with a new short engine, no problems at all.

Agree with the TQ, better also to change the front auto box seal while it's all in bits.

Bit of grease on the TQ spigot as well, drive plates with fretting rust on them should be changed, plus new bolts with locking goo are needed.

We changed our son's V8 engine last year, got it on the road and then went straight off to Holland and France. His lump was a spare we used, mine was a genuine LR short engine.

We run ours on Chevron semi-synthetic 10W-40 diesel engine oil, have done since the new engine was fitted.

Mine's a manual box, Philip's is an Auto.

Peter

I wouldn't reccomend a synthetic oil (or semi-synth) when running in, as the rings will take a lot longer or may never bed in - I've made this mistake before - the engine only settled in properly once I switched back to mineral oil.

Just use a standard mineral oil for the running in period, then change to synth if you want.

I change the oil after 500 miles of running on petrol, then switch to LPG for the remaining running in period (about 1000 miles)

The same goes for LPG. When you are running in, you actually want a little bore-wash to speed up the ring seating and prevent bore glaze.

Using a Diesel engine oil is a good idea - they lubricate the cam better, but apparently, the zinc additives are not good for catalysts - although I've never had a problem myself - no catalyst...

Yes, good idea RR- the TQ seal.

Ours has done almost 90,000 miles in 5-1/2 years on semi-synthetic 10W-40, we did its first road trip up to the LR show at Newark in July 2009 at a steady 70mph, having done 200 miles around town.

Still running well, still using the same Chevron diesel oil, still got the same catalysts and still passes emissions OK.

I try and give it a long run every week or so to clear it out a bit, toodling round town doesn't do it a lot of favours.

We also use double-platinum plugs and STI plug leads, or wires as our American friends call them

Peter

i put synthetic in an engine at the first oil change (1000 miles,) and the oil consumption didn't settle down until I changed back to mineral oil.
On the engine in question, ( a BMW boxer) the oil consumption typically settles down after about 3000 miles.
On mine, it settled down about 3000 miles after I switched back to mineral.
It was quite a lesson - pay attention to what the engine builder tells you!

At 90,000, you must be ready for another rebuild!!!

captainbeaky said:

i put synthetic in an engine at the first oil change (1000 miles,) and the oil consumption didn't settle down until I changed back to mineral oil.
On the engine in question, ( a BMW boxer) the oil consumption typically settles down after about 3000 miles.
On mine, it settled down about 3000 miles after I switched back to mineral.
It was quite a lesson - pay attention to what the engine builder tells you!

At 90,000, you must be ready for another rebuild!!!

Click to expand...

Oil consumption is pretty minimal, we run on LPG so the oil change periods are longer than standard.

On a trip to Holland and France last year towing the big trailer we used under a litre in 2000 miles, much of that was in 30 Deg C ambient. I think our son used more in his engine than I did.







The only thing I've got scheduled is a new camshaft, cam followers and front timing cover/oil pump, all sat here in boxes for the last three years, but it hasn't been done yet.

Peter

Thanks everybody for all tips!

Well, Turner's remanufactured engine, finally arrived two days ago and we now putting all bits back together before fitting, had to fight a bit with some bolts, but it's all going good!
Only thing we still trying to decide is how to prime the oil pump, as said this is a Thor v8, been told to prime it, read that it's self priming, in any case, I will prime it, to make sure, but then do I prime it with oil or Vaseline, as also been told Vaseline is not good, and also, how exactly do I prime it?

Thanks in advance

As long as it lubricated well, it should be OK, and leave the oil filter empty because any air in the pump will just compress and not blow through when you first start up.

If you want to put a thicker oil in the pump, that does help but not mandatory.

Peter