B

bigduke

New Member
Hello all,
I previously had a FL1 and bought a FL2 four years ago which has been problem free until the other day.
2010, FL2, 2.2 Diesel,manual, 27K Miles.
Gave a friend a jump start on his ford focus as his battery was flat.
Had the freelander running before connecting the jump leads to the battery. The focus started and I switched off the freelander. Seemed a total success.
Jumped in my freelander about an hour later and immediately on pulling away, there was a lack of power from the engine and a reduced engine performance display on the dashboard.The engine is running in limp home mode with the engine check light showing. Contacted landrover dealer who suggested that I may have spiked the ECU controlling the battery management and should disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect which might clear the fault. Tried this, no change.
Took my car to an independant landrover service centre and the mechanic hooked up his diagnostic tool ( like a large I pad) which showed 140 faults. He then cleared them and I tested the car. Still the same.
He hooked up the diagnostic again and reckoned it was possibly a split boost hose to the turbo which, I had my doubts as the exhaust had no smoke. Left my car with him and after checking the turbo hose, found to be good.
So, has anybody any suggestions what could be causing this problem?

I will add that my oil service counter and visit dealer indication came up on the dash exactly a year since the last service by land rover. Due to the car only covering about 5k miles, I have not had the oil service done. I have been meaning to do it myself, just haven't had the time.
Could this have anything do do with it as I have read that there is an oil condition monitor in the engine?
Also, what about the fuel filter, could this be choked?
Cheers
Duke
 
Can't see jump start causing problem and it drove for an hour after so maybe just a coincidence.
There are cases where ignoring an engine warning light for too long can send car into permanent limp mode, so maybe resetting service indicator may clear it, as 5k isn't a lot.
Hopoefully someone clever will be along soon.
 
Ask your Ford Focus friend if his car has a "Smart Alternator". If it does the focus was busy putting anything up to 18v Dc into your electrical system.

Possible damage to ECU, and even your battery can occur in quite a short time.
 
Last edited:
Longbolt said:
Ask your Ford Focus friend if his car has a "Smart Alternator". If it does the focus was busy putting anything up to 18v Dc into your electrical system.

Possible damage to ECU, and even your battery can occur in quite a short time.
Click to expand...

This^^^^

Although the Freelander's ECU should be protected internationally from power spikes. It's obviously done something to have give you so many codes.
I'd try a hard reset first. If it fixes it, don't jump start cars again. Modern cars are full of delicate ECU's.
 
Thanks for your input lads.
As the car runs and everything seems to work apart from the reduced performance, I'm hoping that is not too serious but I'm never that lucky!
How do I do a hard reset?
 
It's does sound like you've spiked the ECU unless there are valid fault codes showing up.

Where did you connect the jump leads on both cars?
 
Connected on the battery posts.
The mechanic did say that the large number of faults indicated were not valid but obviously there is something that is.
I thought it a bit odd that he thought it could be the turbo as the car has been running perfectly up until the jump start.I'm still convinced that it is an electrical issue. The charging system appears to be healthy.
The car has been left at the garage and will suggest to do a hard reset.
What exactly is a spike in an ECU?
 
A spike is a sudden jump/rise in voltage. For eggsample a mains PSU with a 12vdc output when first switched on should have a clamping circuit to stop it going above 12vdc. If it doesn't then it may suddenly jump to a higher voltage (lets give 22vdc as an eggsample) when first powered, and this may be damaging for a 12vdc circuit you would presumably have connected to the 12vdc PSU. The spike is only split second, but can be enough to cause damage.

People sometimes disconnect a battery and short the vehicles leads together to make sure the residual voltage in the cars electrics is gone. This is bad too as it creates a sudden surge in current which is released across the short circuit terminals. Garages do this a lot.

If you have a clever charging circuit then it will have voltage measuring. that part of the circuit could be damaged. you would hope it's got protection, but it may not.

Even older vehicles with computers like my hippo don't particularly like jump starting other vehicles. We've had occasional members on ere damage their engine computer when jumping oft a Td4. Personally I disconnect my battery negative to assist starting another vehicle with my battery. I start it off my battery with negative disconnected so my hippo isn't powered. If this doesn't work then I charge their battery (disconnected from their car) with my hippo. When this is done I let them start their car oft their own battery with ma hippo not connected.
 
Crikey, I never thought I could do harm to my car by helping start another but there are usually so many sparks flying when doing this I guess it isn't surprising. Might be worth buying a cheap ODB2 bluetooth jobbie to try and reset the codes. Worked on my daughters Fiesta when her speed sensor played up.
 
Alibro said:
Crikey, I never thought I could do harm to my car by helping start another but there are usually so many sparks flying when doing this I guess it isn't surprising. Might be worth buying a cheap ODB2 bluetooth jobbie to try and reset the codes. Worked on my daughters Fiesta when her speed sensor played up.
Click to expand...
It doesn't cause a problem with older cars all the time, but it's something to avoid as best practice as if it does happen it's a costly fault if needing to get computers matched/programmed to immobilisers etc.
 
That's quite worrying, that by helping someone you could shaft yourself.

I jump started someone's van a few weeks ago, wasn't happy about it as he is a complete and utter cock, but got him out of my sight quicker. Won't happen again.
 
AA man once told me every month he would turn up to a flat battery with another vehicle by it with a computer problem. Whilst it's a helpful thing for a motorist to do, it can cause harm. Do it the correct way to avid problems and it should be ok. It's a shame the OP has found out the hard way. Hopefully it's a simple cheap fix if it's caused by the jump start.
 
When jump starting the ford range the earth lead has to go to the engine and not to the battery or carnage is the result!
 
You should never go terminal to terminal when jump starting a car.

In the Freelander handbook it describes how to jump start your car and how to jump start other cars.
 
td4van said:
You should never go terminal to terminal when jump starting a car.

In the Freelander handbook it describes how to jump start your car and how to jump start other cars.
Click to expand...

Bought mine 2nd hand. Didn't come with a hand book.
 
bigduke said:
td4van said:
You should never go terminal to terminal when jump starting .
Can you please explain why that is as the negative battery post is coupled directly on to the car body.
Click to expand...

I was curious about this as it's the same connection electrically. According to t'interweb its to reduce the chance of sparks igniting any gas the battery may give off when you remove the jump leads.

I'm old school and always hooked up battery to battery.

That's a miss quote, should be Big Duke. Don't know what's up with my fingers today...
Click to expand...
 
I guess the best/safest way to do it if you are really stuck is to connect the two cars via jump leads, leave the running car ticking over for 20 or 30 minutes to put some charge in the dead battery then disconnect the leads before trying to start the dead car. I've never had much luck jump starting cars anyway without letting the dead battery charge for a while.
 
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