Drives

New Member
Hello all,

Suffered from some similar and well discussed problems such as a bit of miss-firing; loss of power at the mid-high rev range; EML coming on when I've been trying to either accelerate hard or taken foot off suddenly - Discovery going into limp mode but a quick change into neutral..engine switched off..engine switched back on...gear shift back into Drive and carry on normal driving seemed to solve that problem on a temporary basis. Worth noting - that particular fault does not appear with cruise control engaged, its only when I'm on the accelerator pedal.

(Oh and if you are reading this but are not a member, then it's worth going through the registration as that will gain access to the how-to photos I'll upload at the end of this.)

I've previously suffered from the usual faults on the TD5 - oil in the loom showing up in the red plug on the ECU so went through the process of cleaning the connectors and changing out the injector harness - clearing that up made a significant change to my power.

Also, I'd noticed most of my top conduit had started to perish so changed all that to re-protect my cabling.

So, decided this weekend to tackle the harness between the accelerator pedal and the ECU on my TD5 Discovery 2 (2000).

I've got faults:
3141 Driver Demand has been faulty
3028 Driver Demand 1 high
3129 Road Speed Missing
3143 Turbo has been over-boosting
All gained from the use of a Hawk Eye Diagnostic tool.

Started behind the battery by removing the ECU; stripping back a bit of the tape around the conduit connecting to the black plug and then loosening off the fuse box.
IMG_0010.JPG
13mm needed to take off the live terminals - I taped them back insulated so I didn't have to disconnect the whole battery - just depends on how safe you want to feel playing with the electrics.

Purchased a set of spare cables, pin c/w seals from a user on here and completed my replacement set by purchasing the Durite tool and a 3m length of thin conduit from 2 other eBay users.
thumb_IMG_0018_1024.jpg

10mm used to remove the whole fuse box - although there isn't a lot of room underneath it, this just gives you enough to inspect the main loom going from the ECU and through the bulk-head.

Headed into the drivers foot well to remove the drop-down fuse cover along with the side and rear kick-board - all easily down as these are held in place with plastic plugs and a couple of 8mm nuts.

Accelerator pedal is a bit of a bitch to get off - you need a 13mm socket and I found an angled socket set with a variety of different lengths socket-set extensions a must to get to the nuts and remove them.

I exposed the conduit above my pedals to inspect the state of the cables and how they were fed through the bulk-head. I don't think I was the first in here as there was far too much tape for my liking along with lots of cable kinks and disarray.

Took off the connector from the accelerator pedal and with the use of a Durite terminal tool, removed the connections. I needed to grind down very slightly the thin flat spike for ease of removing each terminal.
IMG_0002.JPG
IMG_0003.JPG
I ran the conduit through the higher black bulk-head plug and threaded through the cabling.
IMG_0004.JPG
Of the 7 connectors being used on the accelerator pedal, 2 of them get spliced so they only present 5 connectors at the ECU - the wiring diagram shows this.
IMG_0006.JPGIMG_0007.JPG
I didn't get exact colours so made a quick plan as to what I was replacing with what.

I used a terminal block to replace the splice and replaced the terminal pins back into the original plug.
IMG_0009.JPG
Back at the ECU I did the same - then just swapped out pins: 12, 14, 20, 26, 36 after running the conduit along the same path of the existing loom.
IMG_0011.JPGIMG_0016.JPG
I've just taped back, insulated and covered all existing wiring in the event this replacement doesn't rectify the problem.

All back together and been on a few local drives with no issues so far, however I've a long drive tomorrow so that will test out whether I've cleared down my Driver Demand issue or whether I need either a replacement pedal or ECU.
 
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I had the same driver demand error about a year ago. It stopped being an issue after I replaced the battery and that seemed to solve the issue until this weekend. Looks like I might have to follow your instructions to sort it out for good though so thanks for that.
 
Thanks for the thread guys. I have an 04 Disco 2 with 100k on the clock and recently had the same error code rear it's ugly head and bring me to a standstill so I cleared the error with Hawkeye and she got me home ok. She's been a little juddery on the accelerator of late but mostly in the wet so I'm just hoping the loom may be exposed deep down somewhere and this will fix it.

I was a bit nervous before the first cut but after that there was no going back although I did notice a difference in the pin to ECU numbers on mine.

Pin F was No. 12 on yours but 36 on mine.
Pin K was 36 on yours but 12 on mine.
Pin D was 26 on yours but 2 on mine.

I'm not sure why these would be different but after a 60 mile drive all seems well but I won't start celebrating until I've driven a good distance in the wet.

Did you ever change your loom CambridgeSteve?
 
Cheers Jason
tiphat.gif


.
Just messaged you on ebay for plugs, seals and connections to do the same job as 'Drives'.
I'm getting the same same issues but as i've already spent the big money on a brand new pedal, i'm going for the wiring now.
 
Hello all,

Suffered from some similar and well discussed problems such as a bit of miss-firing; loss of power at the mid-high rev range; EML coming on when I've been trying to either accelerate hard or taken foot off suddenly - Discovery going into limp mode but a quick change into neutral..engine switched off..engine switched back on...gear shift back into Drive and carry on normal driving seemed to solve that problem on a temporary basis. Worth noting - that particular fault does not appear with cruise control engaged, its only when I'm on the accelerator pedal.

(Oh and if you are reading this but are not a member, then it's worth going through the registration as that will gain access to the how-to photos I'll upload at the end of this.)

I've previously suffered from the usual faults on the TD5 - oil in the loom showing up in the red plug on the ECU so went through the process of cleaning the connectors and changing out the injector harness - clearing that up made a significant change to my power.

Also, I'd noticed most of my top conduit had started to perish so changed all that to re-protect my cabling.

So, decided this weekend to tackle the harness between the accelerator pedal and the ECU on my TD5 Discovery 2 (2000).

I've got faults:
3141 Driver Demand has been faulty
3028 Driver Demand 1 high
3129 Road Speed Missing
3143 Turbo has been over-boosting
All gained from the use of a Hawk Eye Diagnostic tool.

Started behind the battery by removing the ECU; stripping back a bit of the tape around the conduit connecting to the black plug and then loosening off the fuse box.
View attachment 103164
13mm needed to take off the live terminals - I taped them back insulated so I didn't have to disconnect the whole battery - just depends on how safe you want to feel playing with the electrics.

Purchased a set of spare cables, pin c/w seals from a user on here and completed my replacement set by purchasing the Durite tool and a 3m length of thin conduit from 2 other eBay users.
View attachment 103176

10mm used to remove the whole fuse box - although there isn't a lot of room underneath it, this just gives you enough to inspect the main loom going from the ECU and through the bulk-head.

Headed into the drivers foot well to remove the drop-down fuse cover along with the side and rear kick-board - all easily down as these are held in place with plastic plugs and a couple of 8mm nuts.

Accelerator pedal is a bit of a bitch to get off - you need a 13mm socket and I found an angled socket set with a variety of different lengths socket-set extensions a must to get to the nuts and remove them.

I exposed the conduit above my pedals to inspect the state of the cables and how they were fed through the bulk-head. I don't think I was the first in here as there was far too much tape for my liking along with lots of cable kinks and disarray.

Took off the connector from the accelerator pedal and with the use of a Durite terminal tool, removed the connections. I needed to grind down very slightly the thin flat spike for ease of removing each terminal.
View attachment 103165
View attachment 103166
I ran the conduit through the higher black bulk-head plug and threaded through the cabling.
View attachment 103168
Of the 7 connectors being used on the accelerator pedal, 2 of them get spliced so they only present 5 connectors at the ECU - the wiring diagram shows this.
View attachment 103169View attachment 103170
I didn't get exact colours so made a quick plan as to what I was replacing with what.

I used a terminal block to replace the splice and replaced the terminal pins back into the original plug.
View attachment 103171
Back at the ECU I did the same - then just swapped out pins: 12, 14, 20, 26, 36 after running the conduit along the same path of the existing loom.
View attachment 103172View attachment 103173
I've just taped back, insulated and covered all existing wiring in the event this replacement doesn't rectify the problem.

All back together and been on a few local drives with no issues so far, however I've a long drive tomorrow so that will test out whether I've cleared down my Driver Demand issue or whether I need either a replacement pedal or ECU.

Great post!
I'm in the same boat so will be following in your foorsteps.
And step by step guide :)
 
Just messaged you on ebay for plugs, seals and connections to do the same job as 'Drives'.
I'm getting the same same issues but as i've already spent the big money on a brand new pedal, i'm going for the wiring now.

Hi Rob,

I've just sent you a PM.
 
This is the tool used by Drives in his 'how to' guide.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Terminal...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

My plan is to get a set of pins and seals from Paul and then using the tool remove the pins from the socket and ECU and connect the new 7 core cable in it's place.
It may be possible to file down a small screwdriver instead of buying the tool, but my motto is 'a man can never have too many tools!' So i 'm buying one anyway.
 
This is the tool used by Drives in his 'how to' guide.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Terminal-Extraction-Removal-Tool-Set-De-Mounting-Remover-Durite-0-703-99/331684034679?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

My plan is to get a set of pins and seals from Paul and then using the tool remove the pins from the socket and ECU and connect the new 7 core cable in it's place.
It may be possible to file down a small screwdriver instead of buying the tool, but my motto is 'a man can never have too many tools!' So i 'm buying one anyway.
Thank you
 
that’s the one then the gent above sells the correct socket for pedal. Are you going to solder to the ecu output wires or use some form of plug n socket?
Unless it all goes pear shaped, i intend to remove the existing wires from the pedal plug and ECU and using new ends on the trailer wires replace the wiring between the pedal and ECU completely.
 


That 7-core looks OK
icon-thumbup.gif


You don't need the tool, a safety pin works well, as does a small jeweller's screwdriver.


I messaged you on ebay re the kit the other day also. I saw you have the pedal connector and was going to just do cored trailer wire and then a plug and socket ecu end...

Are you "defeatfoesltd" on ebay?

If so, I've had your message, and will deal direct on here, if that's OK?

I can do them a bit cheaper here, without ebay's fees.

.
 
Thank you
In replying to Paul regarding how many pins are needed at the pedal end, i re-read the original post to see that although seven pins are used at the plug, two of them are joined together leading to only five individual cables going to the ECU. SO, if you haven't already ordered the seven core trailer cable, you could use this instead.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CY-Cable...896420?hash=item3b48968ca4:g:MxUAAOSwS-RfBtSi

In fact, as it's armoured cable, i'm thinking very hard about putting the seven core that arrived yesterday into stock and buying some of the armoured cable.
Just stopped 'thinking' about it. Just bought it :D
Now let's wait and see if it'll slide down the conduit the old cables went down...
 
You’ve lost me here as you still need 7 connections pedal end unless your going to splice an extra into the 5 core cable? I was going to add a wago block pre ecu...
 
You’ve lost me here as you still need 7 connections pedal end unless your going to splice an extra into the 5 core cable? I was going to add a wago block pre ecu...
Five wires from the ECU but two of them split up and go into two pins at the plug. When Paul replies with his payment details and i've got the pins in my hand, i'll see if it's possible to crimp two wires into the same pin at the pedal end and double up that way. That's the way i'd normally do it given the choice
 
Five wires from the ECU but two of them split up and go into two pins at the plug. When Paul replies with his payment details and i've got the pins in my hand, i'll see if it's possible to crimp two wires into the same pin at the pedal end and double up that way. That's the way i'd normally do it given the choice

gotcha! Makes sense
 
To be honest it'll be more a case of which one i can shove down the conduit. I'd prefer to use the armoured, if it will fit...
I haven't looked to find the grommet yet.
 

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