Soul Racer

New Member
Hi folks
i got a series 3 engine in a series 2 body and i cant get it to start, its a 2.25 diesel engine, its turning over though i dont think its fast enough and im not sure if the glow plugs work. ive taken some pics and recorded the sound of the engine trying to start (though i dont think you can post sounds so email me at dunnorama@gmail.com and i'll send you the sound). Theres a wire not connected to any thing near the glow plugs and ive included that pic, any ideas where the wire should go? (its the one im holding)
Cheers
JD
 

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It looks like your glow plug power, can't be sure though because the picture is too zoomed in.

Are there any other wires connected to the glows other that the link wires?

If not then there is no power to them, and they won't be working, so hard to start.

If you have a meter, I would get someone to push the glows while you meter that cable, just deck the meter to anything metal in the engine bay you can get a good contact on.

If it comes on with the glows then its your glows.

If there are NO other wires other than the links, I would be tempted to screw it down to one of the terminals and give it a go!

However, it is possible it will have fused itself touching the engine like that, so keep that in mind when you come to checking it.
 
that wire connects straight to the engine it is bolted on by one of the bolts holding the oil filler that is the glow plug furthest away from the bulkhead.
Cheers
JD
 
if thats true then its a very strange looking earth wire.
looks more like a charging/ignition wire.
 
mines got the feed from the resistor on the bulk head to the glow plugs then by the last glow plug theres that wire, its the same colour as the wire that feed the glow plugs. Do you think i should just put it on the last glow plug and see what happens. Should you feel the glow plugs get warm if its working?
Cheers
JD
 
To test if you glow plugs are good, remove the wiring from each plug, connect a piece of wire to the battery and touch the wire onto the end of each plug individually if it sparks it is a good sign that they are working.

If the all appear to work then make sure that you are getting power to each plug.
 
I hooked me tester to the plug and then to the batt earth and was getting just over 12v when the glow plugs were ment to be working is that what should happen? the voltage did drop when the plugs were turned off.
 
ok i'll try the spark test tomorrow then and post back
cheers
JD
P.s. how long should the plugs be turned on for before you try to start the engine? or should they be used at the same time as trying to start? sorry for been such a noob
 
Glow plugs are wired in series - there should be a wire from the ballast resistor (on the bulkead) to the rearmost glow plug then wires from one glow plug to the next and finally a wire from the last plug to the engine (earth). With your tester with one end connected to the chassis, you should get about 8V from the cap of the rear plug, 6V across the next one forward, then 4V and finally about 2. If you get 12V that suggests no voltage drop across the resistor so no current flowing (you have got a resistor haven't you? It's a loose coil about two inches long on a little metal bracket bolted to the bulkhead). Work your way forward with the tester until it suddenly drops to zero and there is your fault - it's as likely to be a broken or dirty connection as a knackered plug - they are pretty robust but its easy to damage the wires as you heave the engine in and out (been there, done that).
You did bleed the injector pump didn't you? If you have had air into the fuel system no amount of cranking will get it out until you open the two little bleed valves on the injector. I forget where exactly, but there's a picture in the Haynes manual.
 
It has got the resistor but the earth must of come of the last plug and thats the wire in the pic so i will put that back on and try it out. would i only need to get the air out if it had been starved of disesl?
Cheers
JD
 
That's right - but it doesn't have to have run out of fuel - in my case the engine had just been sitting on the ground for a month or two but when I put it in I had a new fuel filter and lots of air in the pipework, and that was enoguh to make it not start. If you have had it running smoothly off a bump start it shouldn't be a big problem, but I'd bleed it anytime I have let air into the fuel system.
 
Me again right i get the spark, ive connected that wire though they still dont seem to be working though i think the wiring might be wrong should the wire to the second plug be touching the wire to the first plug or should they be seprated in some way, if someone could post a pic of the way there glow plugs are wired that would be a big help.
Cheers
JD
 
how long should the plugs be turned on for before you try to start the engine? or should they be used at the same time as trying to start? sorry for been such a noob

Depends on a few things, my 2.5 NA takes about 5seconds in the spring summer etc when starting from cold or after its been off for a while.

7/8 in the winter (this winter never saw me going over 10seconds) and 15seconds when its ice on the windows and door locks jamming.

You might find your engine needs more or less, you can tell from the start up, if it bursts into life smoothly and doesnt miss a few beats then you have got it. If you get a lumpy start then give it a couple more seconds.

If you suspect you are not giving it long enough, go out give it a good 15seconds blast and try starting it, are you getting white smoke from the exahust?

In the cold once the engine it running, you can also give the engine a little bit of glows to get the engine running nicly. The TD5 does this automaticaly, giving the engine some glow if it feels its needs it.
 
This is what to do, take ALL the wires off your glows except your link wires.

Have someone sit in the cab, take a wire from the battery/starter live and hold it onto the one of the glows, thus powering them all, give it 10seconds then have the person in a cab give the engine a go.

If it starts then its wiring, look at the whole circuit carefully or rewire it, simple enough, wire from switch in cab controls relay, relay switches high current glow circuit.

If it doesn't start then, your glows are gubbed - get a new set for about £15 or there is something else wrong, like, no fuel (check for white smoke).

If so, undo the injector unions a little and turn the engine over, fuel should spill out.
 
i got a bit of smoke though not much so ive ordered some new plugs with the wires to sort both just incase, ive also ordered a new ignition barrel as the current one is a bit iffy. how long on average does it take paddock spares to send the stuff?
 

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