Bbear

Member
Hello,
So I have had the engine out on my 1970 2a diesel as part of the resto.
The head has been rebuilt with all new stuff and skimmed etc.
The piston rings and crank bearing shells all looked ok so we’re left, crank seal was changed.
So all the bottom end has not really been touched, therefore the injector pump timing should be as it was when it drove in the shed…??? Correct?

it’s all now built up and I tried to start it yesterday. After bleeding to get fuel to the injectors it ran on 1 cylinder ( I’m sure of this as when I crack that injector pipe it stalls)
The injectors are all new and working and the pump is the old one on the original timing mark.
So I’ve got fuel to all injectors and it’s ****ing out the leak off pipe.
When I crack each pipe it spits fuel as if it’s being pumped properly.

Am I right in assuming the timing won’t have moved?? And what the hell do I try next??

Any help appreciated.
Many thanks
 
They can be a right sod.
Stop cable fully home on the pump, ie its in the run position?
If it worked before it should work now as you have not touched the timing, so it must be something else you have done.
Have you the means to tow start it?

Have you still got the old injectors?
 
Perhaps,still some air in system, can you fit a clear line from filter to pump,when my leak off pipes actuallly leaked it would stall shortly after bleeding until I redid the joints and new washers.
Fuel injector pump bled from both screws
Tappets all set correctly.
Heater plugs wired in and working
 
Can you tell us how you bleed the fuel sys.
Bled first through the two 5/16 bleed screws in the pump until a good stream.
Then while running on 1 cylinder cracked the bleed on the top of the filter.
Cracked each injector pipe at the injectors and they are pulsing. No 1 stalls it.

I might just try the old injectors
 
Far as I remember.....you bleed the filter first.....then the pump both vents......no need to touch injectors....they are down stream to the pump....every time you undo an injector union you risk damaging the injector pipe nipple.....
 
Hello,
So I have had the engine out on my 1970 2a diesel as part of the resto.
The head has been rebuilt with all new stuff and skimmed etc.
The piston rings and crank bearing shells all looked ok so we’re left, crank seal was changed.
So all the bottom end has not really been touched, therefore the injector pump timing should be as it was when it drove in the shed…??? Correct?

it’s all now built up and I tried to start it yesterday. After bleeding to get fuel to the injectors it ran on 1 cylinder ( I’m sure of this as when I crack that injector pipe it stalls)
The injectors are all new and working and the pump is the old one on the original timing mark.
So I’ve got fuel to all injectors and it’s ****ing out the leak off pipe.
When I crack each pipe it spits fuel as if it’s being pumped properly.

Am I right in assuming the timing won’t have moved?? And what the hell do I try next??

Any help appreciated.
Many thanks
These engines are not always very good cold starters even when they haven't been apart.

If you have fuel at the injectors, the easiest way is to tow the vehicle in gear, with the stop control in, they always start after a mile.

If you don't have any capability to do that, try attaching jump leads from a running vehicle, and getting an assistant to turn the engine over on the key, while you slacken the injector unions one by one with a spanner, and re-tighten them.

Slow cranking speed is a common cause of diesel starting issues. Don't use the starter for more than about 30 seconds at a time, or you may damage it.
 
Far as I remember.....you bleed the filter first.....then the pump both vents......no need to touch injectors....they are down stream to the pump....every time you undo an injector union you risk damaging the injector pipe nipple.....
Bleeding the filter and pump first is good. But there is no way to bleed the high pressure pipes other than slackening injector unions.
Often, one is enough, but on a worn engine, several may be needed.
 

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