Buckhandle
Active Member
Have you made any adjustments to rod on the clutch cylinder?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
are you sure you used the correct switch... afaik there are two similar shape but different contact clutch switches...one for D2 and one for defender, the contact inside is the other way around but on some places they say only "Td5 diesel controll switch" which could mix things...you say "power to wires" which is odd cos that switch must complete an earth path to the ECU... unplug the switch and try so and if no joy bridge the pins to the wiring's plug see if any difference
vmaxer
Active Member
:violent:took it back to local landranger services sat to be plugged in and ho clutch switch not working so told him they ordered it he chacked number and found it was defender not disco (still charged for plug in) how the hell can you prove that if it wasnt plugged in and why didnt he find it on first plug in anyhow new switch ordered ill let you know if it works
vmaxer
Active Member
S0 been back on testbook as they decided it was right switch so tested wires from switch to ecu conti there tested switch its working so they've decided its ecu or becm didn't know which one so do I get both or is there something else I could try and which number do I take of the ecu so I get the right one its a 51plate gs manual.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
imo you should find somebody who knows what he's doing...it's not enough to test the continuity they should have tested if the ECU gets the signal from that circuit(my mistake first time when i said it's earth path, sorry)... the switch is normally closed and opens when the clutch is depressed... did you try to drive it with the switch unplugged as i first recommended? ...if it doesnt make any difference with it disconnected you must be sure there is no false feed at pin 35 of the ECU black plug ...and if it's not then the ECU might be at fault...you need the same part number as yours (written on it's side)..or a later one but then you must make sure it has the right fuel map within
(not BECM cos that's for range rover, i hope they knew that) the BCU gives the feed through the closed switch for the case when the pedal is not depressed so i dont see it's involvment here...see attachment
(not BECM cos that's for range rover, i hope they knew that) the BCU gives the feed through the closed switch for the case when the pedal is not depressed so i dont see it's involvment here...see attachment
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
to simulate the clutch electric command you have to try with it unplugged not bridged cos bridged is like with pedal not depressed
i dunno this UK type of registrations so i dunno which year is "51 plate" so tell me the letter or number before the A in the VIN and i'll tell you the ECU's number... it must begin with MSB or NNN
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
if the symptom is that "surge damping" expplained in the clutch switch description and with the switch unplugged you dont have voltage at pin 35 of the ECU black plug it seems that you need an ECU...the problem is that the NNN000120 is a kind of a hybrid ECU cos it was used for both D2 and Defender and the clutch switch input is different on those cars... are you sure that's the original ECU on your car or it's a remapped replacement or something. Tell me the letter or number before the A in the VIN and i'll tell you if it's the original ECU or not. Measure voltage on pin 35 of the plug with switch disconnected... if you'll get voltage there it's some short circuit on the wiring, i attach the pin disposals
... are you sure that's the original ECU on your car or it's a remapped replacement or something. Tell me the letter or number before the A in the VIN and i'll tell you if it's the original ECU or not. Measure voltage on pin 35 of the plug with switch disconnected... if you'll get voltage there it's some short circuit on the wiring, i attach the pin disposals
