Fox

Fox

New Member
Hi All,
I have removed the EGR unit but their is one thing puzzling me what do you do with the thin pipe that went to the egr unit.

Hope you can help,

Trevor.
 
Blank it off (use a bit of metal or plastic bar pushed into the end), it is the vacuum feed that opens the EGR valve, without blanking it you'll be venting your vacuum to atmosphere (only at certain times when the EGR would be open) I'm not sure but it could affect other things like the brake servo which also use vacuum.

Hope thats of some help

Jon.
 
Sorry just read your post again, do you mean the very thin black pipe (if so see above) or the pipe that goes into the top air hose? If it's the latter you need to bank it off or get a new top hose from a earlier disco (without the EGR).

Jon.
 
Thanks for the info, I did mean the very thin black pipe I have blocked the end of it already but I was hoping to remove it all together I might just shorten it and blank it off again.

Trevor,.
 
If you follow it back it goes to a valve type thing (mounted near the jack?) which has two other pipes and a plug on it. One of the pipes goes to the air box the other to the main vacuum line (somewhere by the servo i think), remove the pipes and plug the air box and vacuum line, disconnect the wiring connector, unscrew / unclip the valve thing and throw it in the bin.

Jon
 
Thanks again Jon,
I will sort it this week end.

By the way are the floods subsiding yet.

Trevor.
 
By the way are the floods subsiding yet.
Click to expand...

Unfortunatly yes, the Severn is still high and some of the back roads in Tewkesbury are getting a bit wet now. The Avon has gone down alot today, which is a real shame cos I drove through Eckington yesterday and the road was under 2 feet of water :D, but its nearly all gone now :(.

Jon.
 
My Disco is being serviced today. Needs a complete exhaust and I opted to have the cat removed as its blocked anyway. I asked them about the EGR valve and they said it is a good idea to get rid but it is then necessary to alter the timing. They also offered me a 'performance upgrade' which involved EGR removal, K&N Filter, and some tuning. But for an extra £200 when I am already going to pay about £500 for the major service, exhaust, brake pads and other bits and bobs I think I'll wait!
 
The K&N you can fit yourself in 10 mins the egr can be a little more trouble as the bolts can be a bitch to get out, does this include a new set of silicone hoses if it does then then they are still charging you about £70 in the extra £200 for fitting them and a bit of tuning.
If you have a Tdi then as far as I am aware you don't have to alter the timing but I am sure others on here will be able to clarify this.

Trevor.
 
In fairness the £200 includes having the cat removed and by passed too. As I've already had that done the cost would be about £150 extra but as its already gone way over budget with essentials like brakes and exhausts and cambelts then I will wait and see if theres an improvement. He did say it felt a bit sluggish but that is likely (in part at least) to the clogged cat. I may well remove the EGR myself and if necessary timing can be adjusted next service.

He did say that the EGR bypass and performance upgrade would mean a substantiual improvement in economy. He claimed it could pay for itself in 6 weeks (I guess it depends on your mileage)
 
Just had a de cat pipe. I heard somewhere that earlier Defender (pre cat) front pipes will fit. Had a whole exhaust when it was serviced. The old one was the original! 10 years out of an exhaust not bad eh?
 
revjames said:
I asked them about the EGR valve and they said it is a good idea to get rid but it is then necessary to alter the timing.
Click to expand...

It is amazing the absolute crap that they can spout when they think they spot a mug with cash. As the EGR (when working) operates rarely it does not affect the timing at all. Please ask this bunch of assholes how exactly they want to alter the timing?

And as for K&N filters they are a load of rubbish that will cause premature wear on your engine unless you always drive in the rain. You would get the same affect by running with no filter at all.

I notice the filter has 'a million mile guarantee'. They don't guarantee your bores though. :eek:
 
Dont worry, I am not about to part with my hard earned for anything I dont think I need and I'm no mug either. Previous experience of diesels has shown me that these EGRs are not a good idea and will remove it as soon as I can. I wouldnt be quite as rude as you were to these people. My family has entrusted them with LR servicing for some time and they do a good job at a very reasonable price.

As for the K&N I am not convinced that is any better than the original that was developed specifically for this vehicle.
 
Perhaps I misunderstood. I thought he said timing but as other members have said, it is worth making changes to the settings on the injector pump which is not something I would do myself.
 
I have changed the settings on my pump quite a bit, mainly to get better pull-off at the altitude we are at here, 5000 ft or so. But I then fitted an EGT meter to show me when the engine was getting dangerously hot. At one time the EGT would easily go to 800c which is death, but now I have my alarm set at 725c and rarely get there after backing off some of the settings. I use the meter when shutting down, 200c is where I turn the key off.
 
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