T

txalba

Member
EKA code from LR not recognised, get single beep at end of procedure, tried null code 1515 with no luck.
tried all methods i can find on internet but no joy.

nanocom cant communicate with the ECU and says its immobilised. my question is, if i buy the same ECU with same model number, can i just swap them over and if i do will i need to program anything with nanocom, i have read i need to do the injectors but has anybody here done it no the disco2, i have the 99 td5 and desperate now, had car on road only 2 weeks in i think 9 or 10 now.

hate this motor.

here is what i have tried.
bought code at £20 and entered in usual way.
1. turn key for 5 secs to right (unlock), car unlocks and led on dash starts learning mode and horn beeps once.
2. turn key to first number 5 counting from first turn to unlock (car unlocks all doors when doing first number)
3. turn key to 2nd number (12) to lock side (locks switch to lock)
4. third number (7) to unlock side (car locks open)
5. fourth to lock side (9) (car locks close)
6. final turn to unlock to end procedure

i have tried this umpteen times with no joy, on number 6 i get a single horn beep indicating i did it wrong..... ive had code checked and its correct... seemingly.

my feeling is that even though at 1. it enters some kind of mode it is not the EKA code procedure or i m missing something.

mind fried, tired, bored, about to give up........... so hate this

a grown man feels like having a cry........grrrrrrr, ill chop it to pieces and burn it alive first!!
 
Hi, first of all it's not about the ECU(if you meant engine ECU), it's about BCU(which is an ECU too just named different;), ECU = electronic controll unit)

so i have the feeling that your BCU is set to "no EKA" mode cos once you started to insert the EKA the central locking must not react on it at all, so you actually didnt introduce EKA just locked/unloched the car several times... your chance is to replace the receiver hoping that that's the problem then unlock with fob to remobilise it... if you can't remobilise it with the fob the only way is to replace the BCU which will need complex programming... the only good news is that any BCU is good, the part number is not important(as long as it's in working order)

and forget about that 1515 thing, it's complete boll*x when it comes about a D2... maybe for some older RRs
 
srtgray said:
I thought BCU=Body Control Unit and ECU=Engine Control Unit....
Click to expand...

me too. The nanocom has a specific menu for BCU so its strange that its telling me there is no communication with the ECU?

my key was the first to go, the battery was changed but would not work with car, need to re-sync with BCU which is why i bought the nanocom unit.

But if its saying it cant speak with ECU are you saying its actually saying i cant communicate with the BCU....... that dont make a lot of sense to me:confused:

you also say i should first check the receiver, is that the on in the roof, i do have leaking sunroof at back, the head lining is soaked, but then it has been dry for weeks
 
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yes to BCU but just for accuracy, if the E from ECU is ''engine'' then you translate SLABS ECU, ACE ECU, transmission(EAT) ECU, park distance controll(PDC) ECU....and so on;)... also in RAVE the engine ECU is named ECM(engine controll module) to not mix it with other ECU, in time the ECU became the generic name of engine ECU but it's not completely correct, it's a long story

never mind, if nanocom tells you it's unable to comunicate with an ECU depends in which menu you was, if you selected the engine management then yes, there's no communication with the engine ECU being immobilised but you said the problem is with the EKA which is in the BCU, if you was in the VALEO BCU menu and nanocom told you it's unable to comunicate with the ECU it's because the BCU is considered an ELECTRONIC controll unit too, if you thought that the keys were unsync'd and wanted to resync them by entering in BCU menu the tester wanted to establish comunication with the BCU not with the engine ECU if you see what i mean... the BCU has all the alarm/immobiliser settings in it, the engine ECU must receive a security code from BCU(to not be confused with EKA) as to be remobilised, that's in a nutshell how the immobiliser works... if you have leaking sunroof and the fob failed to work it's quite likely that the roof receiver failed then as the alarm IN THE BCU is not set on ''always disarm with key'' you immobilized the engine by opening with the key instead of the fob... if you knew more about these things i'm sure it would have made more sense for you... i just want to help so your choice if you believe me or not but it's hard for me to explain the whole theory from A to Z here
 
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sierrafery said:
if you knew more about these things i'm sure it would have made more sense for you... i just want to help so your choice if you believe me or not but it's hard for me to explain the whole theory from A to Z here
Click to expand...

I do beleive you and am extremely thankful for your advice. I do all my own repairs on every car i have had since 1987 but electrics drive me nuts. This particular car seems to me to have more problems than most and having the car for about 10 or so weeks, costing £2500 and only having it on the road for 2 weeks is making me cranky.

Apologies

Again i am very grateful for your help........ ill get the rf receiver out today and take a look, im sure it will be knackered as the headlining is soaked, ill probably rip that to bits knowing my luck...... reckon ill weld a sheet over the rear sunroof, maybe the front too. I even get water running out of the seatbelt retraction hole?

Ill let you know how i get on............. are there any tricks to getting this thing out that will make it easier?
 
sierrafery said:
yes to BCU but just for accuracy, if the E from ECU is ''engine'' then you translate SLABS ECU, ACE ECU, transmission(EAT) ECU, park distance controll(PDC) ECU....and so on;)... also in RAVE the engine ECU is named ECM(engine controll module) to not mix it with other ECU, in time the ECU became the generic name of engine ECU but it's not completely correct, it's a long story

never mind, if nanocom tells you it's unable to comunicate with an ECU depends in which menu you was, if you selected the engine management then yes, there's no communication with the engine ECU being immobilised but you said the problem is with the EKA which is in the BCU, if you was in the VALEO BCU menu and nanocom told you it's unable to comunicate with the ECU it's because the BCU is considered an ELECTRONIC controll unit too, if you thought that the keys were unsync'd and wanted to resync them by entering in BCU menu the tester wanted to establish comunication with the BCU not with the engine ECU if you see what i mean... the BCU has all the alarm/immobiliser settings in it, the engine ECU must receive a security code from BCU(to not be confused with EKA) as to be remobilised, that's in a nutshell how the immobiliser works... if you have leaking sunroof and the fob failed to work it's quite likely that the roof receiver failed then as the alarm IN THE BCU is not set on ''always disarm with key'' you immobilized the engine by opening with the key instead of the fob... if you knew more about these things i'm sure it would have made more sense for you... i just want to help so your choice if you believe me or not but it's hard for me to explain the whole theory from A to Z here
Click to expand...

That makes sense, thanks for the clarification :)
 
txalba said:
I do believe you and am extremely thankful for your advice. I do all my own repairs on every car i have had since 1987 but electrics drive me nuts. This particular car seems to me to have more problems than most and having the car for about 10 or so weeks, costing £2500 and only having it on the road for 2 weeks is making me cranky.



I'll let you know how i get on............. are there any tricks to getting this thing out that will make it easier?
Click to expand...

Basically to get the headlining out is a simple but time-consuming matter of going around where there is anything plastic and removing them.

The front map pockets the plastic above the doors and rear windows etc etc.

Once out it's straightforward to remove the sunroof cassette units and re-do the seal between the roof and the unit.

To remove the RF roof receiver is a simple matter - remove the sunroof finishing trim that goes around the perimeter, then pull down gently on the front end of the headlining and you will see the unit.

Good luck

Dave
 
got the rf receiver out no bother. couple of things though, the roof lining may be soaking but not to front of sun roof, only to back, there are no signs of water to the front where the rf receiver was mounted.

2nd thing, the receiver was not screwed or bolted to roof, which is what i expected to find, it was cable tied to a loom.

i found no water damage to the unit, see photos attached. or to any other part forward of rear sunroof.

is there a way to test it, there are 3 pins and im going to put multimeter on it and see if i get any readings, probably ohms but not sure to be honest, as i said electrics is not my thing. ill report back.

i would like to see the other side of the circuit board, its firmly in place and wont shft, do i just break the two small black plastic poles to free it?
 

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txalba said:
2nd thing, the receiver was not screwed or bolted to roof, which is what i expected to find, it was cable tied to a loom.


i would like to see the other side of the circuit board, its firmly in place and wont shft, do i just break the two small black plastic poles to free it?
Click to expand...



As far as I can remember it is ESSENTIAL that the unit is bolted to roof as this is the EARTH path.
 
my thinking too.
There are no readings with a multimeter other than 0.03 ohms which is the reading i get if i dont connect to anything. Would have thought i would get some kind of reading.

There is a white nylon fixing/hole that could be used to mount this unit but as i say its nylon?

does anybody have a picture of how it should be mounted.

it would though seem that if it worked before like this it should still, even if it was fitted just prior to me getting the rover it did work for 2 weeks.
 
unfortunately these receivers are impossible to diagnose with multimeter, oscilloscope is needed to check if it sends a 1000baud signal to BCU on fob request, they are not expensive and prone to fail so you better not torment yourself and get a replacement then if no joy at least you have a spare(i have a new one in the glovebox all the time), though you can check if it gets supply, you must find 12V across pin 3 and 1 of the plug(click on attachment to zoom), also pin 3 must be clear earth but the receiver used to be earthed via fixing, see RH side fixing(it's metal eyelet connector there)
YWY000080.jpg



it can be checked with nanocom too but it's not your case now being immobilised

just tell me how this immobilising thing has begun... only the fob failed to work then you opened with key and that's all?

download a RAVE if you want to DIY
 

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Thanks Sierrafery,
just ordered one, ill keep my fingers crossed its this and not the BCU module.

Just got Rave too. Thanks for heads up.

1st thing that went wrong was the horns going nuts at 3am, i disconnected those on advice from landrover mechanic. Then the Ace blew a leak a fortnight later (now fixed with 10mm plumbers thingy), one week later the car would open intermittently, thinking it was fob battery i changed it, this made it worse, now it would only start with strangest way. This was to open door with key, put key in ignition to position 2, take it out and hold down both fob buttons till car locks activated, then put key in and start (this worked only some of the time, for about a week. Then just stopped working completely.

Car has been an ornament since.:(:mad:

(thank for pics, very helpful)
 
not sure how i can test if current going to the unit. very small holes to see if it is getting current with my meter....... i only have a meter with the pole type testers.

reluctant to cut the wire itself, ill try a paper clip if i can find one lol
 
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insert thin sewing needles in the pin holes or in the wires through insulation to touch the core and measure on those;),(take care to not make short circuit)... on the purple/slate wire(pin1) you must get stabilised 12V against pin 3 or earth
 
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a bit fiddly, ended up using steel mig wire but its confirmed, there is definately power going to the RF receiver (12.01v)
 
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then let's hope the new one will work, cos there is the chance that the keys got unsync'd during those tricks you made with them, unless you didnt kill the fob cos pushing both buttons at the same time is not healthy at all, don't you have a friend with a D2 to connect nanocom to a working BCU and check your keys? ... you can synk one of your keys to a unused slot cos there are 4 see this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zgjgt2ilEgE
 
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unfortunately not. only me daft enough to buy a td5.
like you say fingers crossed. ill report back when i install the new unit.

thanks a lot for today
 
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