mastarforth

Member
Hi Guys

I am getting to the end of my tether with regards to the my P38, finally resolved my brake pedal issues by replacing the modulator and then the EAS gives up again.

At present the rear of the car is flat and the front are high. it does nto appear that the pump is kicking in. I have used the EAS kicker and it starts to reset but indicates taht it fails to initialise, I have used the EAS unlock program and when it iniatilises the correct zeros appear in the TX column, and returns to the signals ff and 1 but the RX column just gets pp and no other signal.

The program also states in teh status column "no idle."

Can anybody give me some advise on where to trace the electrics to find out why the signal seem to be getting lost?

Any help greatly apprecaited, if I dont get this fixed soon, I think I will end up divorced as the mrs is not happy with me about it.

Thanks

andrew
 
Hi Guys

I am getting to the end of my tether with regards to the my P38, finally resolved my brake pedal issues by replacing the modulator and then the EAS gives up again.

At present the rear of the car is flat and the front are high. it does nto appear that the pump is kicking in. I have used the EAS kicker and it starts to reset but indicates taht it fails to initialise, I have used the EAS unlock program and when it iniatilises the correct zeros appear in the TX column, and returns to the signals ff and 1 but the RX column just gets pp and no other signal.

The program also states in teh status column "no idle."

Can anybody give me some advise on where to trace the electrics to find out why the signal seem to be getting lost?

Any help greatly apprecaited, if I dont get this fixed soon, I think I will end up divorced as the mrs is not happy with me about it.

Thanks

andrew

Check the vehicles OBD socket for corrosion,preventing communication w1th the vehicles systems.
 
Hi Guys

I am getting to the end of my tether with regards to the my P38, finally resolved my brake pedal issues by replacing the modulator and then the EAS gives up again.

At present the rear of the car is flat and the front are high. it does nto appear that the pump is kicking in. I have used the EAS kicker and it starts to reset but indicates taht it fails to initialise, I have used the EAS unlock program and when it iniatilises the correct zeros appear in the TX column, and returns to the signals ff and 1 but the RX column just gets pp and no other signal.

The program also states in teh status column "no idle."

Can anybody give me some advise on where to trace the electrics to find out why the signal seem to be getting lost?

Any help greatly apprecaited, if I dont get this fixed soon, I think I will end up divorced as the mrs is not happy with me about it.

Thanks

andrew

First check the car battery volts are good. If you canot get good idle with the EAS software there are a number of possibilities. As mentioned, the OBD socket may be corroded, then have you got the comms port set correctly for the software? If you have, try adjusting the idle & delay times., Have you got the ignition key in position 2, are all the doors and tailgate closed? Any of those incorrect will stop communication.
 
battery volts are good,

i have had a battery analyser on it and it says all is fine

there does not seem to be any power to the Pump at all.

Any other things I shoudl look for
 
battery volts are good,

i have had a battery analyser on it and it says all is fine

there does not seem to be any power to the Pump at all.

Any other things I shoudl look for

I'd do what has been suggested and check the socket. It's a common problem with these.

You may need to remove the panel that the socket runs through to check it properly.

Bad comms on both an EAS Kicker and EAS Unlock sounds very much like a problem here.
 
If you have the slow 35mph message on the dash display the compressor will not cut in. If you have a leak and the compressor has run for too long it's also possible the thermal trip has gone. To get anywhere you still need to establish communication with the EAS ECU with the doors shut and the key in position 2.

Battery analysers do not always show up a duff battery.
 
dont fix it,fingers crossed for a divorce!! Ive had two unhappy marriages,the first wife left me,the second one wont.:biggrin1::biggrin1:
 
ok here we go again

I am currently sitting in my car, with my laptop, I have cleaned the terminals to the obd connector, with terminal cleaner, and i have tried again.

Sitting in the car with key in ignition position 2 I put the EAs kicker light into the socket. it starts blue, and turns to a flashing green light as expected, to say the fault has been cleared. however about 10 seconds after the EAS kicker turns to flashin green I again get a flashing lights on teh EAS control panel, and the dash board reads EAS fault.

Tyring to use the EAS unlock program, Upon setting up I have used a serial to USB adaptor, and the adaptor to the connector on OBD port. when you install this is seems to connect to com port 3 so setting the program to com port 3 it seems happy to communicate. however, upon pressing the initialise button on the program, the TX column has the correct signals but it reads PP in teh RX column obviously indicating an issue.

ANy one got any more ideas?

In the past for turning Programamble ECU I ahve had an issu in using a usb to Serail connection, could this be the issue here?

Also when the car was in the garage for the breaks, they mentioned that the back would drop but when the wires at the back ride height Sensor were waggled all was ok and the suspension would come back to normal.

At present there does not appear to be any signal getting through to the EAS pump, shgould I trace earth points and check for issues in these areas?

Any help woud be greatly received

Thanks

Andrew
 
it sounds if youve answered one of your problems yourself.check wiring,connectors to height sensors, check mounting lugs on sensors(i had one with broken lugs ie incorect reading)check sensors,someone on here should have the correct resistance readings.hows that for starters
 
Usb to serial drivers are often the cause of malfunctioning EAS Program. Download the drivers from our website (we have the 32bits and 64bits drivers available online).

Further when an EAS error pops up within 10seconds after a reset, the most likely problem is a height sensor... Jacking up the car and giving it another try may help... The current values of the height sensors are probably negative and by jacking up the car a little your height sensors might return better values can give the EAS system a head start ;)

Last but not least: inside your compressor, there is a Thermal Switch. When this is broken, you have to replace it (or bridge it). Test the functiionality of the compressor with an Ohm-meter. Take the connector of the compressor and check is there is a connection an all combinations. If this is not the case, the thermal switch of the compressor is broken down.

Regards,
Goswin
 
Last edited:
ok here we go again

I am currently sitting in my car, with my laptop, I have cleaned the terminals to the obd connector, with terminal cleaner, and i have tried again.

Sitting in the car with key in ignition position 2 I put the EAs kicker light into the socket. it starts blue, and turns to a flashing green light as expected, to say the fault has been cleared. however about 10 seconds after the EAS kicker turns to flashin green I again get a flashing lights on teh EAS control panel, and the dash board reads EAS fault.

Tyring to use the EAS unlock program, Upon setting up I have used a serial to USB adaptor, and the adaptor to the connector on OBD port. when you install this is seems to connect to com port 3 so setting the program to com port 3 it seems happy to communicate. however, upon pressing the initialise button on the program, the TX column has the correct signals but it reads PP in teh RX column obviously indicating an issue.

ANy one got any more ideas?

In the past for turning Programamble ECU I ahve had an issu in using a usb to Serail connection, could this be the issue here?

Also when the car was in the garage for the breaks, they mentioned that the back would drop but when the wires at the back ride height Sensor were waggled all was ok and the suspension would come back to normal.

At present there does not appear to be any signal getting through to the EAS pump, shgould I trace earth points and check for issues in these areas?

Any help woud be greatly received

Thanks

Andrew

A bad connection on a height sensor will cause the fault to continually return. USB to serial adaptors are a known problem particularly with Vista. Did you use the drop down menu in the EAS software to set the comms port? Usually it works on comms port 4 with a USB to serial adaptor.
The pump will not run while there is a fault condition present.
 
well you asked for advice and got plenty.if you do need to bridge the thermal switch just earth the pink wire on the compressor block connection
 
when I plug the adaptor into the computer it automatically selects com 3 and the program will not work with any other ports.

Thanks for your reply Goswin, I have downloaded the drivers and I have been told that all of my Drivers are upto date. still get the same problem.

I now have all airbags in the raised settings (the EAS kicker lite has done something). BUt I still cannot get communications with my lead with pp coming up in the buffer. I am runnig Vista however, and as said I guess this may be down to the cables. my wifes computer is running windows 7 I will try the same with hers and see if I can get communications.

I am realy beginning to get frustrated with this, I have checked the connections to the ride height sensors and they all seem to be fine.
 
tried on an alternative laptop and same thing

I have downloaded the correct drivers for the adaptor and I will check again when the laptop battery is charged.
 
tried on an alternative laptop and same thing

I have downloaded the correct drivers for the adaptor and I will check again when the laptop battery is charged.

On some laptops running Vista (and 7 is Vista with some of the bugs fixed) it seems impossible to get USB to serial adaptors to work. The alternative is a a cardbus to serial adaptor.
 
Sounds like you have a number of issues here.

Your compressor won't run if the EAS is in fault mode as it seems to be. There are two fault modes - bump stops and 35mph max message(hard fault) and normal height EAS Fault message. In either case, the compressor will not run.

I assume from what you've said, you have a Kicker Lite rather than a Kicker. The Kicker lite doesn't tell you what the fault codes are, it just tries to clear them. Note the term 'Clear' - if the fault is still present then it will keep coming back, depending on how severe it is.

Sounds like you really need to try and get your EAS Unlock software working to find out what the fault is. Have you looked on RSW Solutions website? They have some troubleshooting steps to try I think.

Guy
 

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