E

EntropyUK

Well-Known Member
I have been neglecting the poor car for a long time due to lack of available time. The compressor is tired and not pumping as strongly as it should so need to rebuild, see below for suspected cause. All the guides just refer to applying a dab of sealant to the O rings and reed valve. My Q is, what type of sealant to use? Is it just Hylomar Blue or something else?

Secondly the poor thing keeps throwing an EAS error of 'rear right height sensor out of range.' When reading the inputs from the EAS via Nanocom I can see the actual value for the rear right jumping all over the shop every time the value is read by Nanocom. E.g. in 4 cycles it read 112, 41, 25, 74. How do I determine the cause i.e. wiring or sensor?
 
What year is your bus, engine and so on? One trick with sensor's is to swap them from side to side, it allows the sensor to use an unused piece of its track. If the problem follows it to the other side... It's buggered!!;)
 
EntropyUK said:
I have been neglecting the poor car for a long time due to lack of available time. The compressor is tired and not pumping as strongly as it should so need to rebuild, see below for suspected cause. All the guides just refer to applying a dab of sealant to the O rings and reed valve. My Q is, what type of sealant to use? Is it just Hylomar Blue or something else?

Secondly the poor thing keeps throwing an EAS error of 'rear right height sensor out of range.' When reading the inputs from the EAS via Nanocom I can see the actual value for the rear right jumping all over the shop every time the value is read by Nanocom. E.g. in 4 cycles it read 112, 41, 25, 74. How do I determine the cause i.e. wiring or sensor?
Click to expand...

Look in tech archive for instructions on refurbing compressor.
 
Mark Piercy said:
What year is your bus, engine and so on? One trick with sensor's is to swap them from side to side, it allows the sensor to use an unused piece of its track. If the problem follows it to the other side... It's buggered!!;)
Click to expand...

MY 1997 and on sensors can be swapped, prior to that they can't be.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I'm pretty sure you don't need sealant on the o rings.
Click to expand...

You don't but a very light smear of silicone grease will do no harm and improve initial settling. Only O'ring that requires to be held in place by a small amount of silicone sealant is the exhaust O'ring in the compressor.
 
QUOTE="EntropyUK, post: 4232185, member: 96877"]Thanks Wammers. Do you need anything to seal the cylinder head?[/QUOTE]

No. Other than the O'ring.
 
I have finally found some time to get round to stripping the compressor. Only problem I have is that cannot remove the piston. The grub screw is completely out of the counter weight but the piston in not moving from the spline at all. I have tried to gently pry it away but with no joy as it is stuck fast. How can I get this pig out?
 
EntropyUK said:
I have finally found some time to get round to stripping the compressor. Only problem I have is that cannot remove the piston. The grub screw is completely out of the counter weight but the piston in not moving from the spline at all. I have tried to gently pry it away but with no joy as it is stuck fast. How can I get this pig out?
Click to expand...

No need to take the little grub screw all the way out. How did you manage that without it dropping somewhere?!

Take the bottom off the pump as well as the back where the inlet filter is. Once the bottom is off you should be able to get a screwdriver up there and with a bit of jiggling / prising one side and then the other it will come away. You then need to get the piston out. Rotating by 180 degrees as you pull it out should help.
 
Finally managed to walk it off the spline. Had to use a lot more force than I was happy with but got there in the end. Now spending the morning rebuilding it.
 
Hi EntropyUK,
It's easy, I've done 2 now. I also read to use an Imperial allen key not the 3mm one for removing that grub screw.

I've had months on and off of EAS problems, now fixed I may add. For the valve block do not buy the red cheapo o rings from the Bay. They are ****. Use the black ones. There is a marked difference in pressure required to push the airlines in using black o rings compared to the red o rings. I know because I couldn't stop the leaks when I used the red ones. My P38 goes up like it is on steroids now!
cheers,
Hoppy
 
brianp38dse said:
Morning Alan, Glad to see you are still tinkering away, Dopey is the man with the mate that has the good leak off pipe.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brian,I'm still doing a bit, spent , the morning watching a couple of guys cutting down a Scotch Pine in the garden i would have done it myself a few years ago,it's the cleaning up that's the hard bit
 
tomcat59alan said:
Thanks Brian,I'm still doing a bit, spent , the morning watching a couple of guys cutting down a Scotch Pine in the garden i would have done it myself a few years ago,it's the cleaning up that's the hard bit
Click to expand...

They do a sort of adult nappy for that sort of thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Flossie
P38A Eas issues
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
feyniriel
P38 EAS problems
Replies
18
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
B
P38A P38A 1996 4.6 Auto HSE EAS slow to lower and rise + random height change to extended height + compressor running too frequently.
Replies
9
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
B
P38A 1996 4.6 Auto HSE. driver side bags not inflating after valve block rebuild.
Replies
17
Views
1K
nigelbb
N
pwood999
P38A EAS Random Extended Mode Selection
Replies
11
Views
819
pwood999
pwood999