D

dannys

Member
When warm, the engine 'misfires' occasionally. It feels like the engine momentarily cuts off...but not completely. Worse after a couple of minutes of idling in a traffic light. After replacing the injectors, FIP, timing chains, guides and tensioners, what could be the source of the misfire?
It is also accompanied by a "gearbox fault" on the message center and a rapidly flashing spots mode light.
Any suggestions?
 
dannys said:
When warm, the engine 'misfires' occasionally. It feels like the engine momentarily cuts off...but not completely. Worse after a couple of minutes of idling in a traffic light. After replacing the injectors, FIP, timing chains, guides and tensioners, what could be the source of the misfire?
It is also accompanied by a "gearbox fault" on the message center and a rapidly flashing spots mode light.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Low battery voltage and/or duff alternator. You should have 14.2 volts at 2K rpm after a few moments.
 
Diesels don't misfire unless there is a duff injector or a sticky valve. The description of what is happening needs refining. After the cockup with the cam shaft i am surprised it runs at all.
 
Wammers, yes, you are right, big screwup. But these symptoms were there before.
1. When cold the engine runs nicely under all conditions.
2. When warm, and it takes about 10 minutes of driving after water reaching 90 deg, I usually get a 'Gearbox Fault' on the message center, and the engine starts 'misfiring'.
3. Worse after standing a couple of minutes idling at a traffic light
4. It runs OK (more or less) when cruising at 60 mph, when there is only slight torque requested
5. Reading the fault codes from the gearbox they are:
ENGINE TORQUE FAULT.
MES2 INPUT FAULT.
6. 'Sport' mode indicator occasionally flashes rapidly

Thanks!!
 
dannys said:
Wammers, yes, you are right, big screwup. But these symptoms were there before.
1. When cold the engine runs nicely under all conditions.
2. When warm, and it takes about 10 minutes of driving after water reaching 90 deg, I usually get a 'Gearbox Fault' on the message center, and the engine starts 'misfiring'.
3. Worse after standing a couple of minutes idling at a traffic light
4. It runs OK (more or less) when cruising at 60 mph, when there is only slight torque requested
5. Reading the fault codes from the gearbox they are:
ENGINE TORQUE FAULT.
MES2 INPUT FAULT.
6. 'Sport' mode indicator occasionally flashes rapidly

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

That has to be something to do with the speed from engine ECU to gearbox ECU or torque reduction signal from the gearbox ECU to the engine ECU i would think.
 
wammers said:
That has to be something to do with the speed from engine ECU to gearbox ECU or torque reduction signal from the gearbox ECU to the engine ECU i would think.
Click to expand...
the missfore and other symptoms may not be related, but gearbox fault etc is a common indication of low volts, warm engine and alternator may be connected.
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
I would not call 0.15 of a volt a nasty voltage drop.
Click to expand...
You would normall only see that amount of volt drop if the battery is very low causing a high current flow or all the lights etc are on. Otherwise there should be no significant volt drop.
 
Datatek said:
You would normall only see that amount of volt drop if the battery is very low causing a high current flow or all the lights etc are on. Otherwise there should be no significant volt drop.
Click to expand...

Diesels with mechanical pumps don't misfire from electrical faults. A fault maybe causing the quantity servo to lag but that would be an hesitation not a misfire. Misfire is a misleading description. He may well have an electrical fault from his description of the sport lamp flashing but i doubt it is due to low voltage. I would like to know what diag he has used. Gearbox ECU pin 31 is MES2 output. He has fault MES2 input. So maybe a bad connection on message centre itself. Lots of fiddling to do i think.
 
Datatek said:
You would normall only see that amount of volt drop if the battery is very low causing a high current flow or all the lights etc are on. Otherwise there should be no significant volt drop.
Click to expand...

I did say if he got that with the headlamps on at 2000 RPM it was acceptable. That is how alternator output should be checked at idle after a short period of time and with headlamps on at 2000 RPM. What he has is not perfect but within acceptable limits. :)
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
I would! pretty much none is what I would consider acceptable!
Click to expand...

It depends how he checked it. At 2000 RPM with system on it is not a vast loss. Perfect no, but disastrous never. It certainly won't cause running problems at that level.
 
I did have the same problem only when warm momentarily pauses at Idel sometimes it cut out but very rarel ,check my fip rebuild thread after cleaning the cps upping the revs it was still there so I took the battery off cleaned all connectors including injector 4 cps fip pump fuse box feeds bulkhead loom connector behind the expansion tank ecu plug oil pressure everything accessible in the engine bay with electrical cleaner ....
It's never done it since!
 
This is a photo of my engine ECU's internals. Is this reasonable? it looks like there has been some water ingress...
 

Attachments

  • Engine ECU.jpg
    Engine ECU.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 175
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

spacebrodie
Freelander 2 (LR2) Cut out - P0045-19
Replies
6
Views
567
Arctic2
Arctic2
R
P38A 2.5 DSE smokes too much
2
Replies
27
Views
3K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Gunter Shingleditch
Freelander 1 TD4 puff of smoke on start-up, stinky exhaust and shudders at 1000 RPM - SOLVED
Replies
16
Views
3K
Arctic2
Arctic2
steveshone
1995 p38 2.5 judder / misfire
Replies
13
Views
1K
RangeRoller dt
RangeRoller dt
D90 Td5
Defender Td5 Battery Warning Light
Replies
5
Views
2K
miktdish
miktdish