So, drum brakes, I have them on the front, I have them on the back.
Nothing wrong with them most of the time but I do enjoy a bit of gentle green laning which will inevitably end up with me dipping on or more wheels into water.
Sunday was just two wheels on the same side. Until the drying out process has been completed the pull to one side was quite violent. Every time I dip I tend to remove the drums then clean and dry, thats life and I can tolerate the maintenance regime but I would like to see if there are ways of improving the initial drying time.

Years ago before disc brakes had been universally adopted by off road motorcycles we use to file diagonal slots into the brake shoe friction material, the idea was water and dirt would be channeled down the grooves away from the working surface.

Looking around I see people like EBC offer shoes for ATV's and some motorcycles with these grooves already cut.

I guess the question is does anyone do a Land Rover shoes like this, do these grooves even work or are there alternative solutions that can help.

Years ago after passing through a ford you would see a sign " DRY YOUR BRAKES " this ment apply brakes a few times to heat them up some and force the water out.
Land Rover drums should have 4 drain holes around the drum,ensure they are clear.

Yep, lots of light left foot braking as I drive along to get them dry, still seems to take quite some time and any "necessary" braking in this drying off phase can be interesting.

Holes are always clear, the water seems to mix with the brake dust and form a slurry that hangs around and needs abrading off the linings to fully restore braking.

On my old 4x4 trialer I drilled out the holes to 3/8 of an inch.This helped get the crud out.