smyrk

Member
I knew when i bought a discovery i would be on here alot but i was hoping not this much :doh:

So was just showing the missus the difference between it in normal high box and difflock high box. Put it in difflock, drove forward big bang and asif something had stop the truck. Stop and started again drove fine forward and back. Until i put it back into just high box and nothing. It wouldnt move, tried it in low,w ouldnt move, back in difflock high and low drives and reverses fine. Also steering wont turn right at all now. What the hell have i done???:confused:

So to sum up. It drives in diff lock high and low
Wont drive in high or low without difflock selected
Steering wont turn right at all!

Anyone got any suggestions because ive only had it 2 weeks tomoro and im sick of laying underneath it already lol. Cheers
 
Sounds to me like you have smashed a CV joint in the front axle, did this years ago and it jammed up the front hub just like you described.
 
You need to systematically go through the drivetrain to find where the problem is before you get dirty.

Jack up one wheel at a time and see if it rotates nicely.

Then try an axle at a time and spin the prop and see what happens.

Maybe jack both axles and stick it in gear and see what goes wrong.

You've either broke the transfer case or a diff or a cv, but as above cv sounds good if you've got a steering related issue.

Cheers
 
Its just strange that it now drives in diff lock. Ill have a look tomorow and go thru spinning the wheels etc. What exactly am i looking for when i spin each wheel? Ahould it spin the prop?
Do you think the steering problem and the no drive are connected. Cheers for you help this is one of the most helpful forums ive been on
 
No drive without difflock + steering fubar = CV smashed to ****!

Jack up your front axle and spin the wheels one at a time and watch the prop...

Replace the ****ed CV then say in a loud voice - I WILL NOT **** ABOUT WITH DIFFLOCK UNTIL I FULLY UNDERSTAND WHAT IT IS DOING TO MY TRANSMISSION. ;)
 
Replace the ****ed CV then say in a loud voice - I WILL NOT **** ABOUT WITH DIFFLOCK UNTIL I FULLY UNDERSTAND WHAT IT IS DOING TO MY TRANSMISSION. ;)

Lmao dont worry about that mate. Just out of interest though why would it of smashed it, would it of been because i was using it on tarmac and turning? Cherrs foreveryones help i honestly fort i done transfer box in or summet at least i might be able to sleep tonight lol. Always seems to be the weekend when i cock things up though so i have to wait for parts lol
 
Lmao dont worry about that mate. Just out of interest though why would it of smashed it, would it of been because i was using it on tarmac and turning? Cherrs foreveryones help i honestly fort i done transfer box in or summet at least i might be able to sleep tonight lol. Always seems to be the weekend when i cock things up though so i have to wait for parts lol

By jove, he's got it! :D

Bet your missus had something to say about it though eh!:rolleyes:
 
By jove, he's got it! :D

Bet your missus had something to say about it though eh!:rolleyes:

Yeah she was over the moon that i gonna be taking it to bits again today! Even though in a way its her fault beacuase i was showing her lol. And after finally convincing her we needed one for winter its been off the road more thsn on and i dont mean offroading. Usually up on axel stands :rolleyes:
Off up to my unit shortly to have a look and im just hoping its the side that could do witg the swivek seal replacing knowing my luck it wont be though. Cheers
 
Hi i spun both wheels on the truck and neither moved the prop? I had a slight crunchin noise from drivers side so i thought i would remove anyway just to have a look if it was that but dont actually know what ilooking for. Was it meant to be in bits or what? At the moment the cv is still joined to the shaft because i didnt want to knock it apart if theres nothing wrong with it. So any help asap would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
 
Right.

To spin the prop, the other side of the diff needs to be fixed and your side needs to be connected to the wheel you are turning.

If either is not the case then the prop will not spin, and if a cv has gone the either it does not hold the diff when the wheel is down, or it does not spin the diff when the wheel is up.

You need to jack both wheels together, then turn lock to lock and feel which wheel crunches. Thats your culprit!
 
just an update, after pulling the drivers side cv off i got the bloke from the garage next door to have a look and he said its fine. When i explained to him what had happend he told me that if the car wont turn right you automatically start with the passenger side wheel as the steering is pushed from the wheel thats turning inwards.
So i built the drivers side all back up and moved to the passneger side.

MY OH MY WHAT A STUPID IDEA IT IS TO USE THE DIFF LOCK ON TARMAC ESPECIALLY TURINING AT THE SAME TIME.

Im pretty sure i will never make that mistake everrrr again. Smashed to bits! It was pretty clear to anyone (even me who didnt really know what i was looking at) that this was the problem.

Heres a picture
Smashedc-1.jpg

I just wish id look on here and learnt how it all works before trying it lol. But it means ive learnt alot since last night and done abit of work that i needed to do (swivel seals and brake pipes over the calipers) so it isnt all bad. Id just like to thank everyone that helped no doubt ill be back in a couple of days asking for more help lol
 
Urm, yeah, that's ****ed!

Bit confused about your mates quote about the steering but whatever!
 
Urm, yeah, that's ****ed!

Bit confused about your mates quote about the steering but whatever!

i dont really know either mate lol.

Next question im going to order a swivel seal kit aswell as i need to replace the seal this side. Do i need to order some shims or just use the old ones? if i set the preload this side will i have to do it on the drivers side aswell? if so do they have to be set to the same tension? cheers
 
Hi mate

You're unlikely to need more shims because to increase the preload you take shims out. However you never know with these jobs!

And yes I would definitely recommend setting both swivels at the same time.

Not a hard job, an hour will cover it.

Cheers
 
No, just take steering rod off, remove caliper bolts, remove brake pipe bracket bolts and move caliper aside

Pop top bolts back in and check preload

Bolts out and swivel pin out, add or remove shims and check again, then rebuild when correct.

Cheers
 
oh reet cheers mate am i right in thinking that doing it this way with it all built up the preload should be set to about 5kg? cheers
 
I think they say 8lb, but guru says 2kg I fine.

I run mine considerably heavier because it cures wheel shake on my ridiculous wheels.

Cheers
 

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