MariusRR · Nov 5, 2019

Hi!

I have been offered a 07 HSE that has been parked for a year. Was maintenanced as it should up until it was parked. Needs new brakes and a gear shift-linkadge. What else should I expect to change? Coolant? Hoses? oil?

kermit_rr · Nov 5, 2019

If it's been left sat with old oil then I'd definitely change it. Check your air filter doesn't have a mouse colony in it, otherwise apart from the battery you're probably good to go

Europa486 · Nov 5, 2019

My 1990 200tdi was left standing for 10 years outside, put a battery on her and first turn of the key and she was away,
Admittedly she needs welding work that I’m slowly working through but from a mechanical point I’m amazed how well she has held up,

MariusRR · Nov 5, 2019

Thank yoU!

How about the electric brake? If it works, is there something I should do here when I change all the brakes?

Colthebrummie · Nov 5, 2019

If it's been standing for a year, all the oil will have drained in to sump, starting it dry isn't a good idea, I'm not sure how you turn over a diesel without letting it start, on a petrol, I would disconnect the HT lead to the coil so some oil would be thrown around the internals before it fires up.

Col

kermit_rr · Nov 5, 2019

There's a counter argument that the starter takes ages to build oil pressure so you want it to fire straight away

lynall · Nov 5, 2019

I would fit a battery and go for broke, 019 Yuasa from halfrods with the trade card is a sensible price.
Standing vehicles for long periods of time is bad news, brakes are always the first to suffer.

kermit_rr · Nov 5, 2019

Only ever once bought a battery from Halfords!! From New the best charge it would hold was 12.4v. Told them i wanted a new one, not one that's been sat on the shelf.. told me battery is perfect

Henry_b · Nov 5, 2019

Battery.

Turn the key.

My V8 sat for 2yrs fired up instantly.

No dramas.

Discodevon · Nov 5, 2019

Do an oil change pretty sharpish, then run it around for 500miles and change it again

Stanleysteamer · Nov 5, 2019

Tyres don't need pumping up then?!

MariusRR · Nov 8, 2019

Fired up as it should. Had been fired up now and again.

Gives a fault code for DPF. left overnight with a still dead battery, the front seemed to lower, stayed up in the rear.

The compressor is quite noisy, but that is maybe not strange with the car standing for so long?

MariusRR · Dec 14, 2019

The car has behaved like a champ so far. Well almost.

Turns out the owner has been firing it up and moving it about so it wasnt completly dead.

Straightened out the brakes and then it passed its MOT with flying colours.

BUT.

The DPF full message disappeared with some DPF fluid in the tank. But after 500 km it came back. I drove it to my trusty mechanic who completed two regenerations. Still fault. It trows the code P244b. Mechanic suggested changing the exhaust pressure sensor. So i did. The yellow check engine light disapperead. But 500 meters later and dpf full came back. 500 m further and check engine is lighting up again. I have not tried deleting the fault codes though. is this a kind of fault that needs to be reset to work? Or am I looking at the wrong places?

So, what now? I absolutely hate DPF as a concept, but I need this to work.

MariusRR · Dec 14, 2019

Was about to do an oil change (been driven 20.000 since the last one), but this DPF nonsense has put a stop to that at the moment. Will that help in any way? DO I have to put C1 oil in it with the DPF? wss-m2c913-b is the specs suggestted in the service book, but that is not c1, but a5 i believe.

lynall · Dec 14, 2019

MariusRR said:
Was about to do an oil change (been driven 20.000 since the last one), but this DPF nonsense has put a stop to that at the moment. Will that help in any way? DO I have to put C1 oil in it with the DPF? wss-m2c913-b is the specs suggestted in the service book, but that is not c1, but a5 i believe.

Have you tried some live data to see what pressures the dpf sensor is seeing?
On or around the dpf will be the sensor and it will have two small pipes from the dpf leading into it, one from before the dpf and one after, in a nutshell this sensor measures the pressures before and after and if there is to much of a difference it knows the dpf is blocked, or if there is no difference at all the sensor knows the dpf has been gutted, if this is the sensor you have changed you could have a knackered dpf, but then again you could have some mouse/rat damage to the wiring to said sensor, hence the need for live data.

C3 oil covers pretty much all the bases, C= cat convertor.
20k is way to long between oil changes, I would say 10k max and less if you are going to keep the car.
If when you sort out the dpf, the oil pump casing should be at the very top of your to do list, I cannot stress how important this is.

kermit_rr · Dec 14, 2019

I'm confused, dpf fluid? Do you mean ad blue?
Dpf doesn't need any fluid, but does need to complete a regeneration cycle periodically

MariusRR · Dec 14, 2019

lynall said:
Have you tried some live data to see what pressures the dpf sensor is seeing?
On or around the dpf will be the sensor and it will have two small pipes from the dpf leading into it, one from before the dpf and one after, in a nutshell this sensor measures the pressures before and after and if there is to much of a difference it knows the dpf is blocked, or if there is no difference at all the sensor knows the dpf has been gutted, if this is the sensor you have changed you could have a knackered dpf, but then again you could have some mouse/rat damage to the wiring to said sensor, hence the need for live data.

C3 oil covers pretty much all the bases, C= cat convertor.
20k is way to long between oil changes, I would say 10k max and less if you are going to keep the car.
If when you sort out the dpf, the oil pump casing should be at the very top of your to do list, I cannot stress how important this is.

Thats the one I changed yes. have not tried any readings, my Diagnose tool died and my new one arrieves in the mail, hopefully on monday.

I will try reading out as soon as possible.

Yeah, I change on 10.000 km on the TDV8 I have. But have been unsure what oil to get the D3.

MariusRR · Dec 14, 2019

kermit_rr said:
I'm confused, dpf fluid? Do you mean ad blue?
Dpf doesn't need any fluid, but does need to complete a regeneration cycle periodically

Cleaning stuff, not ad blue. The type you pour in the tank

Accourding to my mechanic he did two regenerations. But the messeage about DPF full still comes back.

kermit_rr · Dec 14, 2019

Ahh that makes sense
You can get the dpf cleaned, various folk do it. Never had one done though

lynall · Dec 14, 2019

kermit_rr said:
I'm confused, dpf fluid? Do you mean ad blue?
Dpf doesn't need any fluid, but does need to complete a regeneration cycle periodically

Not sure where you got fluid from?
I do have this habit of not prrof reading what I have typed.

If you meant the C3 bit? that is the spec of oil for cars running cat converters/dpf etc, and confusingly as the number gets lower the olil spec increases, ie C3 ok, C1 the best, but dont use C1 if the car does not spec it.

A dpf will take so many regens then its had it, or been run on the wrong oil/been overfilled with oil/faulty injector etc etc.

I mentiond the engine oil pump as it is a famous fail point on the 2.7 engine.

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Think outside, no box required.

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