calguy

calguy

Member
Hello,

My 2001 P38A will not lock or unlock with the key manually. The keyfob works fine and all central locking works. I'm a bit stumped at what could be the problem. Any suggestions? Is there some rod or linkeage from the key barrel to the latch that may broke off? Is that even possible?

I just want to get the doors to lock with the key in case the fob fails.

Thank you for all the help!

-Calguy
 
Mark Piercy said:
It does sound a dropped link bar i think. The real way to find out is to strip the panel and see.
Hopefully something really easy to repair and all is restored for you? Saint.v8 has a door panel walkthrough. Give this a try buddy;)

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-front-door-card-removal.321378/
Click to expand...

Mark,
Thank you for the reply and for the link too! I will pop off the door card and have a look see and report what I find. I sure hope its something simple!:)

Best,
Calguy
 
If you can unlock with fob and handle works, then you have lost the link from lock barrel lever arm to latch. Possible but unlikely that attachment to latch has failed unless at some point the clip has not been fitted correctly. But entirely possible that the plastic barrel lever has failed.
 
wammers said:
If you can unlock with fob and handle works, then you have lost the link from lock barrel lever arm to latch. Possible but unlikely that attachment to latch has failed unless at some point the clip has not been fitted correctly. But entirely possible that the plastic barrel lever has failed.
Click to expand...
wammers can see through things dont you know?? He's like superman, with crystal balls:p;)
 
I used a ham-fist to snap the lock lever on mine. :(
But, some simple mould-making and JB-Weld fixed it.:D
 
Thanks for all the responses. So I was able to take a peak this morning and it the barrel arm to the lever was detached (the one on the left is for the lock barrel the one on the right is for the handle). I put it back on but upon closing the door it came off again! So I took out the door handle carefully and took my needle nose pliars and simply crimped the back side of the attachment a little as it was a bit loose. Refitted the door handle, placed the lever in the clip and heard a satisfying "pop". It passed the door test a few times so I placed everything back together. I did manage to break one of the door card clips (luckily it was just one) so I'll have to see if those are still available for next time I have to take the card out. Otherwise all is fine now :)

Thanks all again for the guidance I really love this forum!:D

20181204_061407.jpg
 
calguy said:
Thanks for all the responses. So I was able to take a peak this morning and it the barrel arm to the lever was detached (the one on the left is for the lock barrel the one on the right is for the handle). I put it back on but upon closing the door it came off again! So I took out the door handle carefully and took my needle nose pliars and simply crimped the back side of the attachment a little as it was a bit loose. Refitted the door handle, placed the lever in the clip and heard a satisfying "pop". It passed the door test a few times so I placed everything back together. I did manage to break one of the door card clips (luckily it was just one) so I'll have to see if those are still available for next time I have to take the card out. Otherwise all is fine now :)

Thanks all again for the guidance I really love this forum!:D

View attachment 163994
Click to expand...
Nice fix!;)
 
Looking at the photo it would seem someone at some time has fitted it upside down. The end that goes into the barrel lever is supposed to look like the one above it for the door handle. The other end is just an "L" shape with a point on it's tip and a reduced diameter just back from point that goes through and clicks into a clip then the clip is turned over the bar to retain it. You are supposed to release the bottom clip first then unhook the top location. As i say, ham and fist by Roger the bodger. ;):D
 
wammers said:
Looking at the photo it would seem someone at some time has fitted it upside down. The end that goes into the barrel lever is supposed to look like the one above it for the door handle. The other end is just an "L" shape with a point on it's tip and a reduced diameter just back from point that goes through and clicks into a clip then the clip is turned over the bar to retain it. You are supposed to release the bottom clip first then unhook the top location. As i say, ham and fist by Roger the bodger. ;):D
Click to expand...
Hi Wammers, good observation! Before starting this I also took a look online and found the following info:

https://goo.gl/images/iyF9vW

https://goo.gl/images/2o9QGW

https://goo.gl/images/8iJkAg

Also I took a picture of the latch mechanism on the inside of door panel and I have it attached below on this thread. I didn't see any clips for the door lock lever as what you described. Could it be an earlier version P38A had the design you mention and Land Rover updated it later on? I'm going to be tackling the other side front door in the near future as I hear the latch mechanism make a grunt every time it locks (may go out at any point!) so I'll take a look and report back with how that side looks.
20181204_061353.jpg

Regardless though, I'm happy all is working now thanks to everyone's help on this forum! :):D
 
Yep me that's muddled up, it is correct way up, L shaped end as described should be at top in that version with this on it. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-MTC9290

In addition. RAVE for 2000 model certainly shows rod as i first described it. Both rods detach from bottom first by removing clip then unhook off top. So your guess is as good as mine. Microcat only shows your version. When it was changed why it was changed i do not know.
 
Last edited:
Thanks wammers for the link! That's the buger that was loose on my rig. I may just buy a few to have as mine was a little bit loose and since the metal is very fragile on this, the next time I need to get in there it'll likely fail.

I completely agree as I saw the same diagram in RAVE. As to why it was changed a year later..., I guess we'll never really know unless someone who worked at LR engineering knows and can share :)
 
calguy said:
Thanks wammers for the link! That's the buger that was loose on my rig. I may just buy a few to have as mine was a little bit loose and since the metal is very fragile on this, the next time I need to get in there it'll likely fail.

I completely agree as I saw the same diagram in RAVE. As to why it was changed a year later..., I guess we'll never really know unless someone who worked at LR engineering knows and can share :)
Click to expand...

Possibly using up old stock from other Rover vehicles. The air con condenser was changed around that time also for a smaller one off the Rover cars, a bitch to get hold of and expensive.
 
wammers said:
Possibly using up old stock from other Rover vehicles. The air con condenser was changed around that time also for a smaller one off the Rover cars, a bitch to get hold of and expensive.
Click to expand...
Yup that's probably the case. Thanks for the tip on the AC Cond, I'll have to keep that in mind and maybe stock up before it goes too...
 
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