Posted on my station wagon thread as well.

I am converting my hard top to a station wagon and have now fitted the rear body to my chassis. The rear door gap on the station wagon tub appears to have splayed outwards. Yesterday when just resting on the chassis the rear door catch was about 20mm away from the end of the latch towards the centre of the vehicle. I strapped the tub together to close the gap before bolting the roof on which then when released has made a difference. But the gap is still about 10mm wider than it is on the hardtop body. This means the catch lines up with the end of the latch not the latch itself.




I know I can space the latch off the body to move it over so it engages. But is there anyway of closing up the top of the tub so this is not necessary?
The gap on the hardtop is 915mm at the top of the tub. The station wagon is 925mm. I know Land Rover tolerances are generous. But that seems like a lot.

This leads to another question. I have series door locks on the front so know I will need to drill holes to mount the latch on the b-pillar. The second row doors I have anti-loose catches. Do these mount in the same place as the one peice door latch. Or will I need to drill the c-pillar as well?

There can be quite a bit of slop in the fit of most body parts but that does seem a lot. Could the tub itself be distorted? Don't think CSW one is as stiff as a basic tub.

tottot said:

There can be quite a bit of slop in the fit of most body parts but that does seem a lot. Could the tub itself be distorted? Don't think CSW one is as stiff as a basic tub.

Click to expand...

That is my thought. I am using the same door so it did all fit prior to removing it. I am wondering if despite my bracing the removal, storing upright, transport, and subsequent fitting has caused it to bow outwards in The middle.

I can get the correct gap with a ratchet strap squeezing it together. But not sure how to get it to stay there as there is no bracing

To get me back on the road this week I will space the latch out. But that is surely not the answer for that larger a gap.

Thinking out loud.

How is it bolted to the chassis?
could a few washers/spacers be added at the sides to try and make it bow a little which may bring the center in but still be able to pull the top out with bolting the roof?
Elongate the holes to the rear crossmember so the sides can be lifted a bit?
It doesn't take much to change a gap further away from a fixing, angle of dangle and all that.

J

marjon said:

Thinking out loud.

How is it bolted to the chassis?
could a few washers/spacers be added at the sides to try and make it bow a little which may bring the center in but still be able to pull the top out with bolting the roof?
Elongate the holes to the rear crossmember so the sides can be lifted a bit?
It doesn't take much to change a gap further away from a fixing, angle of dangle and all that.

J

Click to expand...

That may be the answer moving forward. For now to get the rear door to latch so I can have it back on the road tomorrow I have spaced out the catch. It only took 4 washers so has reduced again. But is still more than I would like. Will see if it settles any more once given a drive.

Is the body out of alignment? The rear body on my old series 3 looked straight until I fitted a hardtop which showed it wasn’t quite straight and the rear safari door, fitted with the hardtop wouldn’t shut properly. A farm jack soon put it straight again.