honolulujoe · Apr 27, 2015

started getting into sorting the electrics out on the s3 and getting them working, the snail like pace I go at it isn't going to happen overnight.

According to the chassis number my truck started life as a petrol and someone converted it to diesel. They obviously knew what they were doing as the electrics worked before I swapped the bulkhead so I have obviously ####ed them up.

Stripped the masking tape off the loom, found a few wires that just end in there and some that start in there too

plan is to group the wires together by type and fit plug together connectors for the groups so taking the bulkhead or wings off will be easier.

have noticed some dodgy connections from the ignition switch to the starter.

the battery lead is two leads joined together, I presume originally the starter and alternator were on the same side as the battery so to get to the other side the battery lead had to be lengthened. The leads to the starter to the alternator go round the back of the engine, down the other side, round the front and on to the alternator which is actually on the same side as the starter so why they weren't put straight to it I really don't know.

the wire to the voltage regulator goes straight from the ignition switch the circuit diagrams show it should be routed via the fusebox.

I compared the diagrams for both the diesel and petrol fuseboxes which are very similar, mine is nothing like either, its got wires going to other terminals on the box and all sorts so I pulled them all off to put them right.

in the pic you can see the dodgy ignition connections I have exposed near that throttle spring and where the two battery leads have been joined together

honolulujoe · Apr 27, 2015

bummer my engine kill cable snapped this afternoon so I have to lift the bonnet to turn the engine off

apparently a 4ft battery cable is only £5 so why they joined two small ones together I can't say

oxides · Apr 27, 2015

£5 for a battery cable? Let's have a look in the spares box...... Welcome to the wonderful world of series wiring bodges. You'll need a wiring diagram and the drawings of the back of the dashboard.....
Good luck!

honolulujoe · Apr 27, 2015

got the manuals with the circuit diagrams in, black and white but have the wire colours on or what they should be, is that not enough?

mine is a bodge but If I can get it back to how it should be I shall be happy

oxides · Apr 27, 2015

The land rover book has drawings of the back of the clocks with the wiring connections and colour codes - it'll be useful!

Bobsticle · Apr 27, 2015

Dont pull the bare wire that is loosely covered in black sleeving that disappears into the center of the indicator loom. I did trying to fathom what it fed.

Its the horn earth............

It wouldnt go back

Good luck. The only thing that worked on mine was three side lights. Up and running now but had a nightmare finding one last fault that turned out to be a corroded spade on the back of the fuse box. Looked ok, just wouldnt keep a good connection.

honolulujoe · Apr 28, 2015

oxides said:
The land rover book has drawings of the back of the clocks with the wiring connections and colour codes - it'll be useful!

which book is that please? the manual?

thanks for the tip bobsticle, I was guessing that was something to do with the horn, at the mo my horn is wired separately from the battery - sans fuse - to a switch on the dash and the existing stalk is pretty tired and crappy so I got a new one with the hope of returning the horn to its rightful position

assuming I do get it working I might swap to a modern blade fuse box, don't like these flimsy looking glass jobs

honolulujoe · Apr 28, 2015

think I have them, page 86-1 for the clocks and the switches a couple of pages earlier, excellent that should be a great help.

might print some of the pages off and get the wife to laminate them at work, save me walking in and out to the pc.

honolulujoe · Apr 28, 2015

just looked at the old stalk, the horn lead is missing so I guess that explains why the horn is separately wired.

You sure its the horn earth bobsticle, less I am reading the diagrams wrongly it looks more like the supply, the earth is a black lead that joins some other earths in the lighting wires near the wing front

Noticed a colour difference too, old stalk purple wire new stalk purple and red. Old stalk blue and white wire is blue and yellow on the new.

honolulujoe · May 1, 2015

having more of a fiddle today, managed to get the blower fan working, nothing else works yet, fuunily enough the blower was the only thing that didn't work when I bought the car

honolulujoe · May 1, 2015

both speeds too, and now the horn and brake lights

honolulujoe · May 1, 2015

well the results are coming in today, got the battery charging now, didn't seem anything wrong with the circuitry but I am sure I read somewhere either on here or on the s1 forum that these old lucas alternators needed the charge light circuit to be functional or they wouldn't work.

I couldn't tell whether the charge bulb was gone so I tried to take it out and bust it

so I just cut it off and made a complete circuit by joining the wires and hey presto, so I guess the bulb had gone or wasn't making a proper contact. Won some s3 bulb holders on the bay the other day so will reinstall it later.

Incidentally is there any reason why one can't run some on off things like the horn and stop lights with a feed directly from the battery to the fuse box so that they work independently from the ignition switch?

think I am going to wire the redundant cold start light onto the glo plugs terminal so that it lights up when the plugs are active.

Blackburn · May 1, 2015

Charge light circuit excites the winding to get the electric flowing once turning the magnetic flux takes over.
When the voltages on each side of bulb equal bulb goes out.

honolulujoe · May 1, 2015

ah

might come out of this exercise with a good understanding of auto electrics

Bobsticle · May 1, 2015

honolulujoe said:
just looked at the old stalk, the horn lead is missing so I guess that explains why the horn is separately wired.

You sure its the horn earth bobsticle, less I am reading the diagrams wrongly it looks more like the supply, the earth is a black lead that joins some other earths in the lighting wires near the wing front

Noticed a colour difference too, old stalk purple wire new stalk purple and red. Old stalk blue and white wire is blue and yellow on the new.

Yes it probably is. The bare wire attaches to the stalk tube. Another wire (can't remember the colour) runs inside the tube to the springy/pressy bit on the end.

They obviously carry the live through the switch

honolulujoe · May 2, 2015

mine is set up with the bare lead (brown sheath) from the stalk going to the fuse box the other side of the box going to a terminal on the ignition switch that is live when the key falls back after starting, a black and brown lead goes from the stalk to the horn via that 5 pin push in connector, then a black lead from the horn into a connection with the earth leads from the drivers side wing lights.

hopefully the weather will be ok today, plan to tackle the washer and wiper next as that seems a simple circuit, leaving the difficult looking ones like lights and indicators till last

honolulujoe · May 2, 2015

well that was a piece of ****, stuck the lead on the re-wired fuse box and wipers and washers work.

Do you have to pull the water through manually somehow first to get it pumping through? Pump is working but the bottle and tubes were empty from when I swapped the bulkhead

couple of pics, work in progress and my dodgy flying earth lead from the battery to the cab

honolulujoe · May 2, 2015

well the lights work ok, except for the drivers headlight so I am guessing that's an issue in the wing.

I am stumped now though, I have a 4 pin bosch flasher, terminals are labelled c, c2, 49 and 492, 49 and 492 are the throughput from the fusebox and output to the stalk. with just these connected the indicators work fine. c has the ground leads from the warning lights so c2 ought to go to ground, if I connect c2 to ground the fuse blows so maybe it shouldn't go to ground.

however, with the ignition on both indicator warning lights are on, when I put an indicator on the appropriate warning light flashes but the other stays static

honolulujoe · May 2, 2015

can I not just wire the dash warning lights into the circuit that goes to the indicator bulbs?

that way I would get the warning light flashing in just the direction I am indicating

honolulujoe · May 2, 2015

found a terminal code thingy, apparently c2 is for a trailer dash warning, c is for dash warning, 49 is ignition or battery and 492 is for output, so I guess I will just wire the lamps to ground tomorrow see what that does, looked on my s1 and the warning lights are wired into the leads going to the indicator bulbs so will do that as a last resort.

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