stag888

Active Member

• May 12, 2018

• #1

Hi ,
Seeking some advise, all of a sudden I developed a lack of power & misfired and died, checked out fuel supply ok , fuel in carb , so figured electric's , was out on the road so called the AA, he diagnosed a faulty distributor, specifically the plate on which the points are fixed rocks around , certainly wasn't firm . Ok am going to get a new one - was thinking to change to a electronic 25D replacement distributor
However this is where I start to struggle , mechanically I'm fine , but when it comes to the ignition / setting the timing am a total numpty , have checked through previous posts , and it seems to be a case information overload , some set up by hand , others with timing light ( Not a clue ) , so does anyone have any basic advise / links that could get me started. Failing that the name or number of a good land rover friendly mobile mechanic in the SE London / Bromley area .
Cheers
Steve

 

J

John S

Well-Known Member

• May 12, 2018

• #2

Stay calm . Walk before you run. I'm assuming you have a Lucas Distriburor. It would take too much text to explain here. Do you have access to at least a Haynes Manual? Way back in the day in bum fuek nowhere I learned static timing with a new distributor . It's quite straightforward.

 

stag888

Active Member

• May 13, 2018

• #3

Thanks , panic subsiding, slowly with help from "you tube" and Haynes am starting to piece it together , worked out how to find TDC , and have moved the air cleaner can for better access to distributor , just now need to wait on distributor & timing gun and then give it a go next weekend .
Cheers

 

J

John S

Well-Known Member

• May 13, 2018

• #4

Timing gun essential. If you get that and have the Haynes Manual it’s actually quite good for static timing. That’s the way I first set the timing back in the day. In bum feick nowhere in rural Shetland I changed the dizzy. It’s quite straightforward with the strobe. The feel for the compression on the cyclinder is critical. With your thumb over the spark plug hole you’ll feel a gentle push and that’s the point to start. Good luck.

 

Simon Perks

Active Member

• May 15, 2018

• #5

Na ... ya dont need a gun ... a light bulb on a long lead will do to find the ignition point ... connect it to the ignition side of the coil and ground - when the points open the circuit will go to ground and the bulb will light.
First find your TDC ( look at the valves, or feel for the air, or use a screwdriver in the hole to see its highest point of travel.
Now turn the dizzy so the bulb just lights.
Now look a the pulley marks - are you at 8deg? if so awesome - otherwise now turn the engine to align the pointer and the pulley mark - now go back and do the bulb test...

 

stag888

Active Member

• May 15, 2018

• #6

Interesting alternative method , will give it a go , have found TDC , #1 piston @ highest point & rotor arm pointing directly @ # HT lead , and pulley mark directly at pointer / tongue . The only challenge I see now is how to measure deg, the pointer on my engine has a single point , unlike the 3 pronged pointer / tongue shown in the Haynes manual, likewise the pulley just has the 1 mark was assuming I would just have to guess target 6/8 deg, being about 1/2 " to the left and tippex a mark that distance on the pulley . Make sense ?

 

R

rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• May 15, 2018

• #7

Yes, you can do a rough calc using the pully dia to get the circumfernce then work out the distance for 6/8 deg. Typex works well, if you are going to strobe it paint it white them use a marker to put a black line on.

 

stag888

Active Member

• May 16, 2018

• #8

Hi All,
Well distributor arrived & fitted , did the maths and calculated the 6/8 deg and with tippex marked pulley . Started first time , had borrowed a timing gun , and showed it was about - 12 deg, ran roughly and low turnover 400rpm , adjusted/turned the distributor and it improved immediately to just over TDC and tickover increased up to 600 rpm. all looking good , only new issue is that the vacuum pipe from the distributor is right against the fuel pump outlet , it looks like the ideal 6/8 deg is smack bang were the fuel pipe is , can't see an immediate fix , thinking I might end up having to trim approx. 5 / 7mm off the vacuum pipe , and put a right angle union on . Is this something anyone else has encountered and resolved ?
Cheers

 

stag888

Active Member

• May 16, 2018

• #9

Checked out fuel pumps and it seem mine is none standard , as the pipes go straight up out of the top and have right angles onto which fuel hoes attach and have no glass bowl , seems the bearmach pumps available exit from the side of the body with a glass bowl , replacing this may be the best way to go if I'm to avoid the distributor vacuum fouling the pump when getting the right timing adjustment .... nothing is ever simple - Doh .

 

stag888

Active Member

• May 17, 2018

• #10

More differences with the fuel pump , I removed it , and have found it has a 1cm spacer between it and the engine mounting plate , not sure why it's fitted ? , neither the workshop manual or Haynes show this spacer fitted . wondering what it's for ? looks like a pro spacer , not a botch job , could it be to offset a longer rocker arm ? , or longer bolt , again the pump is not held on like the manual indicates with bolts on studs , but by a Allen head bolt - shall compare when replacement pump arrives .... nothing is ever simple - but then that's why we do it !!!

 

Dippypud

Never Knowingly Understood

Full Member

• May 17, 2018

• #11

stag888 said:

Hi ,
Seeking some advise, all of a sudden I developed a lack of power & misfired and died, checked out fuel supply ok , fuel in carb , so figured electric's , was out on the road so called the AA, he diagnosed a faulty distributor, specifically the plate on which the points are fixed rocks around , certainly wasn't firm . Ok am going to get a new one - was thinking to change to a electronic 25D replacement distributor
However this is where I start to struggle , mechanically I'm fine , but when it comes to the ignition / setting the timing am a total numpty , have checked through previous posts , and it seems to be a case information overload , some set up by hand , others with timing light ( Not a clue ) , so does anyone have any basic advise / links that could get me started. Failing that the name or number of a good land rover friendly mobile mechanic in the SE London / Bromley area .
Cheers
Steve

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If you get stuck, try London Range Rovers, Charlton, SE7... http://www.lrr.co.uk/

They are good guys, plenty of helpful advice too ...