Beretta man
Member
I’ve got a set of rear window frames that I’ve sanded down and now need to paint,has anyone used hammertoe paint or would it be better to get them powder coated
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Hammerite is shìt
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Smoothrite especially after Hammerite primer is OK but you have to read the instructions.
Powder coat? At your own risk! the damn stuff peels off in no time if exposed to weather and or friction and has a nasty habit of hiding rust.
Oornery Hammerite, I wouldn't bother with.
Nothing wrong with proper prep, etch, prime, spray with ornery paint.
But we all have our own preferences!
Powder coat? At your own risk! the damn stuff peels off in no time if exposed to weather and or friction and has a nasty habit of hiding rust.
Oornery Hammerite, I wouldn't bother with.
Nothing wrong with proper prep, etch, prime, spray with ornery paint.
But we all have our own preferences!
Kenbo
Active Member
Hammerite is known to chip easily. Powder coating is a good tough coating but if there's any rust left it will fester and expand under that hard coat. Personally I'd sandblast, paint with several coats of Bondaprimer, leave it a few days, or longer if possible, then coat with satin black. I'm not a fan of aerosols as the paint usually has no depth but recently have used Indasa Acrylic Topcoat in aerosol and it seems to give a nice heavy coat. I'm sure there will be other opinions but Bondaprimer is a great tough undercoat, and doesn't chip easily.
Mr Chaffey
Member
Having recently painted my window frames I can recommend just a plain old rattle can of black satin paint.
Cheap easy and correct for the material you are painting.
Cheap easy and correct for the material you are painting.
Ornery Hammerite often ends up with holes/bubbles in it which can harbour rust and, yes, chip off. Smoothrite properly applied, i.e.e two coats within the fiddly time limits, is usually OK.
Never used Bondaprimer, may well give it a go.
Last time I used a zinc primer, after sandblasting, I put the bits in the oven for quite a while before painting them, then sprayed Smoothrite with a warm air gun. Worked a treat.
(I think. Twas a while back, maybe I put them in the oven after priming, just cannot remember!.
)
Beretta man
Member
Thanks everyone for advise looking on utube there is very little on it
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Its just automotive prep and paint mate, can't really go wrong long as you prep enough
Mr Chaffey
Member
Why would you u-tube it ?
It's metal ....it's paint...
It's metal ....it's paint...
Why not if you don't know how to do something?
+1to the above, if you don't prep properly A/ it'll look back, B rust will come back before your know it. And we have all seen these frames with rust at the bottoms.
Beretta man
Member
On how to get the frame out of the door ect
meego
Well-Known Member
When you do get them out, the back ones anyway, you will find the wee metal support for the quarter light glass is rotten. I made new ones out of stainless as they just bolt on.
codfather79
Well-Known Member
Can you get them hot dip galvanised?
Beretta man
Member
That would be a life time job alright
Hi,
I've bought the used frames in good condition, sanded, powder coated. They looks perfect, as a brand new ones. Unfortunately, the rear ones do not fit
Mounting holes are distanced differently than mine. I think, I got the Disco-1 version. If the only difference is the distance of bolt sockets, I can move them more or less easy. Question is - if the glass dimensions and curvature (profile) is the same? Anyone compared it?
I've bought the used frames in good condition, sanded, powder coated. They looks perfect, as a brand new ones. Unfortunately, the rear ones do not fit
Mounting holes are distanced differently than mine. I think, I got the Disco-1 version. If the only difference is the distance of bolt sockets, I can move them more or less easy. Question is - if the glass dimensions and curvature (profile) is the same? Anyone compared it?
