GTRekky · Monday at 16:03

Hi there,

I am currently in the process of trying to restore my 2002 Discovery 2 TD5. The engine was knackered, and the car’s interior had been stripped but I found a salvage vehicle with a low mileage, 15p engine and landmark interior (2004 MY)

My intentions were to completely strip both vehicles of engine/ gearbox, interior and wiring and transplant all the bits from the 04 donor vehicle, into the preface lift 02.

I have completed most of the mechanical / wiring swap but having trouble now getting the vehicle to start. I have the engine loom, main interior loom and dash loom installed, along with the speedometer. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump priming but then which I flick the key to the third position, there is no crank.

I have tried resetting the inertia switch & EKA code, however the alarm constantly chimes when I open the door and I’m also not getting any signs of power to the dash cluster / speedo. Any suggestions on where to start investigating on this?

Many thanks,

Ben

sierrafery · Monday at 16:18

Hi, the main issue is actually there:

GTRekky said:
I’m also not getting any signs of power to the dash cluster / speedo

so you'll have to double check what you missed at the interior fusebox which must power up the dash while it's a part of the immobiliser too in relation with the BCU, they must be sync'd to remobilise the vehicle and as long as no power to the IP something is missing there so that's where you should insist, once you have power to the dash with everything working and still immobilised we'll speak then, untill then i can't help much remotely without seing myself what's going on with a kind'a bastardised vehicle while i'm not sure that everything is according to the diagrams

did you swap the whole dash wiring from the facelift into the early modell, IDM(interior fusebox) and BCU included?... there are differencies between the two modells wiring and fusebox wise...if you didnt swap the entire harness just parts of it that's a problem

GTRekky · Monday at 16:32

Legend! Thanks for confirming that Sierra

I had a feeling that the IP was a key component in the loop so to speak. I'll double check all the wiring and report back.

Yes I did swap all the wiring and modules etc from the facelift into the original vehicle, IDM and BCU included.

All the earthing points from all the looms are bolted down, although I do have a few missing bits from the dash section of the harness such as the radio, heater buttons, IP surround buttons, airbag etc as the dash is currently out. I'm working under the assumption that the IP will still work even with these unplugged?
Could this be a foolish assumption?

sierrafery · Monday at 16:40

GTRekky said:
I had a feeling that the IP was a key component in the loop so to speak

Not the IP(instrument pack) itself but the fact that it doesnt work makes me think that something is missing at the IDM cos that's part of the immobiliser.... the instrument pack should work without radio or other dash switches as long as it has earth and gets everything from the interior fusebox

GTRekky · Monday at 18:05

You were spot on mate

feel like a right donut, left one grey plug off the top right of the IDM. Good news is I now have power to the IP and all looks to be working correctly but still not able to start it? Shall I swap the drivers doors so the lock matches the key and then try the eka code again?

sierrafery · Monday at 18:11

GTRekky said:
Shall I swap the drivers doors so the lock matches the key and then try the eka code again?

Yes, you should try that if the fob doesnt work though a nanocom or similar would be compulsory for such work cos other BCU programmings are also necessary if the old D2 was not exactly with the same systems like the donor... are you 100% certain that the EKA code is the one saved in the BCU? i mean did you insert it at a time in the past and worked?

GTRekky · Monday at 18:24

I never got any paperwork with the donor vehicle (04 facelift) but I went to land rover this afternoon with ownership documents and they gave me the 4 digit EKA code.
Lent my Nanocom to a mate to borrow over the weekend but getting it back on Wednesday so can check the code then. Don't suppose there is a way to bypass it in the meantime if not?

sierrafery · Monday at 18:27

No, and nanocom is useles as well untill it's immobilised so you'll have o remobilise it with EKA before you go to programming... i didnt try myself but i've seen some comments that you can read the EKA even if it's immobilised , i'm a bit unsure of that

GTRekky · Monday at 20:07

sierrafery said:
No, and nanocom is useles as well untill it's immobilised so you'll have o remobilise it with EKA before you go to programming... i didnt try myself but i've seen some comments that you can read the EKA even if it's immobilised , i'm a bit unsure of that

When I'm inputting the EKA code into the door, do all the doors and tailgate have to be closed. Just a thought but the tailgate electrics aren't currently wired up and wondering if that's stopping it from working?

sierrafery · Monday at 20:17

GTRekky said:
When I'm inputting the EKA code into the door, do all the doors and tailgate have to be closed. Just a thought but the tailgate electrics aren't currently wired up and wondering if that's stopping it from working?

I dont think they all have to be closed as it's not mentioned anywhere but if the circuit for a door is not there it's considered closed by the BCU as the door switches are N/O for closed door and they close to earth when the door is opened so open circuit on that path means closed door

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