steve's P38 RR

steve's P38 RR

Active Member
Hi, I am again thinking of changing to a discovery 2 TD5

My first question is what order do the specs go in eg: s, es, se, gs, plus others also if someone knows what you get on each spec that would be great. ( I would like climate control, cruse control, heated front screen, 4x electric windows and electric mirrors. [leather would be good too lol])

Also i'm finding a lot of autos for sale, I stayed alway from autos in the P38 as they dont have much power any way and think the autos feel worse, Another thing I would worry about is if the auto box had a fault as it's not something you can repair yourself so could be a costly bill, I also do a lot of towing so would the box last with the heavy loads. If the auto box is bullet prove i'd have one straight away.

thats it for now but i'm sure i'll have more questions as i keep looking.

thanks steve.
 
I have the sales brochures for every year of disco from 1997 so I know each spec level. With your spec requirments as standard that would be an ES there's no SE.

ZF auto boxes are bullet proof and I understand that they are the better option for towing, just do a search fo the threads manual v auto.

Good for you if you can repair a faulty manual gear box yourself, most owners would have a recon service replacement fitted, just the same as with an auto gearbox.
 
steve's P38 RR said:
Hi, I am again thinking of changing to a discovery 2 TD5

1. My first question is what order do the specs go in eg: s, es, se, gs, plus others also if someone knows what you get on each spec that would be great. ( I would like climate control, cruse control, heated front screen, 4x electric windows and electric mirrors. [leather would be good too lol])

2. Also i'm finding a lot of autos for sale, I stayed alway from autos in the P38 as they dont have much power any way and think the autos feel worse, Another thing I would worry about is if the auto box had a fault as it's not something you can repair yourself so could be a costly bill, I also do a lot of towing so would the box last with the heavy loads. If the auto box is bullet prove i'd have one straight away.

thats it for now but i'm sure i'll have more questions as i keep looking.

thanks steve.
Click to expand...

Hi Steve, Re spec levels you need an ES, which is about top of the pops.

Auto or manual? Really depends on what you prefer to drive. They both have there general and towing-specific pro's and cons.

Drive a few and see what you like. Also to get a good driving TD5 auto you need to try a remapped example.

Good luck on your search

Dave
 
Thanks for that i'll search for some ES's then i'm a bit worryed about the stores about the early TD5 engines now mite look for a V8 could you put down the spec codes in order for me so I know if I find a higher model.

(I didn't think there was an SE but i did find someone selling one lol)
 
steve's P38 RR said:
Thanks for that i'll search for some ES's then i'm a bit worryed about the stores about the early TD5 engines now mite look for a V8 could you put down the spec codes in order for me so I know if I find a higher model.

(I didn't think there was an SE but i did find someone selling one lol)
Click to expand...

Starting from the bottom; E;S;GS;XS;ES;Metropolis.
 
I highly rate the TD5 ES Auto with either a remap or a PSI power chip, and better breathing by way of silencer replacement and a KN filter or equivalent. This brings the 0-60 time to about 10 seconds or less and dramatically improves the mid range torque to make towing a relaxed affair once it locks into top gear at about 55mph on the motorway. The auto box makes a brilliant combination for towing. The only precaution I take is a more regular transmission oil and filter change. I regularly tow up to the payload and have upgraded the brake discs and pads. If you tow in hilly terrain this is an important upgrade. The only other thing to do is let the engine idle for a while after a heavy towing session. Reliability wise; Keep on top of the coolant situation and replace any suspect hoses and clips. Heavy towing generates a lot more heat under the bonnet and will expose any minor issues.
 
I have a '53 Disco Landmark auto, which was a special edition in the run out of Disco II's prior to the launch of the Discovery 3. It has a heated screen, electric "power fold" mirrors, 4x electric windows and most importantly all leather interior! I tow a 5 berth Bailey caravan, and although not a huge 'van I really like the auto box. Just had a stage one re-map which has really improved the driveability, especially when towing. I don't do many miles however still have the oil, filter etc changed every year. The mpg is good, although after having a V8 Discovery anything in double figures is great! Hope you find the right LR Steve.
 
thanks for the input people, i'm worried about the early TD5's now with the oil pump prob and plastic dowels between head and block, i'm looking at v8s aswell now the new engine in the d2s is ment to be ok isn't it, unlike the one's in the early p38s.
 
I have an 03 TD5 ES auto, i came from a p38 4.6 to this and i think its fantastic. I had all the extras on the p38 but havent missed it one bit. My ES has heated seats, heated screen, leather trim, cruise, remote stereo with changer and sat nav ect. It has also been chipped and is quite quick, but still have to do the decat and de egr. The auto box is very smooth and seems quite strong. I have had few v8`s and the last range rover v8 was a nightmare with slipped liners and sticking valves. The slipped / cracked liner is possible with all the rover v8`s 4.0 and 4.6`s, The cracked head on the Td5`s was more on the pre face lift models as the heads were redesigned on the later engines. This doesnt mean they wont crack though just as the diesel p38`s can.
Mark
 
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Have a TD5 Series II, auto, and do a lot of heavy towing - with horses - that means live load and when things get hilly and twisty, things have to be done S L O W L Y. The ZF auto handles all this without a murmer. Hot? This is in South Australia, towing in an amibent temperature of 35C is also not a problem for the ZF.
 
mmmmm really dont know what I want, looked at a 4.0 auto es at the weekend was nice but too much, and still not sure to go the v8 way or td5, I've found a manual td5 I mite see what thats like gonna spend so much on fuel looking at them.
 
2001 4.0 v8 ES Auto - Full electrics, full leather - tows with ease never had a problem (really smooth) Horse Boxes and bloody big caravan (watch it go tits up now) lol

Just really heavy on the pocket as I am sure you are well aware
 
Regarding early TD5s, problems that seem to come up a lot are: cracked head, head gasket (because of the dowels), SLABS ecu (may need replacing with later one to cure 3 amigos) ABS pipes, radiator needing replacement. Haven't heard of the oil pump prob for a while - I suspect that all the dodgy ones have already failed.
 
PASTMASTER said:
Regarding early TD5s, problems that seem to come up a lot are: cracked head, head gasket (because of the dowels), SLABS ecu (may need replacing with later one to cure 3 amigos) ABS pipes, radiator needing replacement. Haven't heard of the oil pump prob for a while - I suspect that all the dodgy ones have already failed.
Click to expand...

Facelift D2's can also suffer cracked heads due to the higher pressures the fuel injectors work at.

Ref the oil pump bolt, you would like to think so, but its not the case at all. For peace of mind and to avoid a "possible" huge bill, ANYONE with a TD5 should have the oil pump bolt inspected / checked.
 
Urban Panzer said:
Facelift D2's can also suffer cracked heads due to the higher pressures the fuel injectors work at.

Ref the oil pump bolt, you would like to think so, but its not the case at all. For peace of mind and to avoid a "possible" huge bill, ANYONE with a TD5 should have the oil pump bolt inspected / checked.
Click to expand...


Is it a sump or front cover off to check the bolt?

ive serviced td5s before but never done any more work than that.
 
steve's P38 RR said:
Is it a sump or front cover off to check the bolt?

ive serviced td5s before but never done any more work than that.
Click to expand...
It's a sump off job. But! make sure that you have the front axle fully dropped. Either do it on a 2 post hoist or jack up the body before you start, then it's failry straightforward. Otherwise you arre stuffing around trying to lift the front end to get sufficient clearance over the axle to drop the sump. How do I know? :-( P.S. my oil pump bolt was properly thread sealed, but at least I know.
 
I had a 4.6 p38 and as nice a ride as it was the hassel did my head in I now have a td5 and like it.Ok its not a rocket ship when flooring the pedal doing 40 -50 like the 4.6 was.What swayed me to the td as opposed to the v8 lpg was that all fuel has gone up in the past and then come down a few pence where the lpg has not come down.If the trend continues it will no longer make sense to go for lpg as a cheap to run alternative look at the price of lpg now.When I had the 3.9 running lpg it was less than a third the price of petrol.For more info search for "discovery 2" on the net a very good site for any one thinking about a td5.
 
I'm still on the look out for the right car, finding it hard with my budget but really don't want to buy the wrong thing and get stuck with it and no money at the end to change again,

I've really only been looking at ES models as I decided I didn't want to lose some of the goodies i have on the p38, but i've recently found a td5 auto gs 7 seat thats got climate, cruise, heated seats, heated front screen, etc the only thing i can think of its missing is leather. so should I be looking at other models than ES ???
 
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