Hi guys, my son has just bought himself a discovery 2 td5 2003 which is a great car but looking underneath the chassis is still as solid as a rock with only light surface rust but really needs treatment or the next year or two could or the rust could be fatal , we live in brighouse West Yorkshire, can anyone suggest anywhere to do the steam cleaning and the underbody treatment reasonable close to us , also he works away during the week so doing it on a weekend would be a great advantage. Many thanks in advance. ☺
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Could always diy. Loads of info on here on different methods and products.
If you want it done professionally and locally, Google's your friend
http://www.jrclassics.co.uk/ first one to come up, bit pricey at around £600
If you want it done professionally and locally, Google's your friend
http://www.jrclassics.co.uk/ first one to come up, bit pricey at around £600
discodrivercumbria
Well-Known Member
£600.00 to do it and make a good job with the materials is cheap, Dinitrol ive heard is better than waxoyl now, as waxoyl is not like it used to be, these lot are at Rochdale, may help you out with a better price if you ring, it is a real ****ty job doing it yerself,
http://www.rust-proofing.co.uk/
http://www.rust-proofing.co.uk/
brian47
Well-Known Member
Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber are the treatments recommended by many members, definitely in preference to Waxoyl.
Kits of Dinitrol can be obtained from that well known auction website that begins with "E"; contains cavity treatment, underbody spray and stone-chip for the under the wings.
It is a dirty job if you do it yourself, lay down a sheet of polythene damp-proof membrane before you start and take regular breaks for the getting back of breath, the fumes can be a bit hazardous; it's best done in fresh air.
Kits of Dinitrol can be obtained from that well known auction website that begins with "E"; contains cavity treatment, underbody spray and stone-chip for the under the wings.
It is a dirty job if you do it yourself, lay down a sheet of polythene damp-proof membrane before you start and take regular breaks for the getting back of breath, the fumes can be a bit hazardous; it's best done in fresh air.
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
For the rear chassis end I would recommend a couple of cans of spray Grease after a clean up
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
I'm a bit of a Buzzweld fan and there is a centre in Sowerby Bridge
http://www.alpine-restorations.co.uk/buzzweld/
http://www.alpine-restorations.co.uk/buzzweld/
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I've used tannic acid based rust converter on mine and i'm very pleased with the result, my first choice would have been Vactan http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VACTAN-RUST-CONVERTER-AND-PRIMER-1LITRE-RUST-TREATMENT/122473698488 but couldn't find locally and the shipping from UK would have doubled it's price for me so i found a similar Brunox product here, i applied it directly on the wet rust with brush after i pressure washed the chassis and it turned to a nice black layer in few hours, i didnt use anything else on it yet and it's still nice and black after more than a year, took me around 2 hours with a short brake to drink a cold beer but a have canal in the garage so didnt have to crawl under
