A

ANR

Active Member
I've had my first LR Discovery 2 for about 18 months now. I'm very pleased with the vehicle, but I've had a couple of issues with the brakes sticking. On both occassions I've had a garage attend to it, the most recent being an MOT failure.
I'm a novice DIY mechanic, but like to do as much as I can. Previously I've worked on a Fiat Seicento and every six months I service its brakes. It has some unique/common issues that I know how to deal with and I keep the brakes in top condition.
So far, I've not done anything with the Disco 2 brakes, likely why I've had these two issues. I want to start servicing the Disco 2 brakes. I have the Haynes manual, but can someone suggest regular things to check and and attend to for a bi-annual brake service?
Thanks
 
ANR said:
I've had my first LR Discovery 2 for about 18 months now. I'm very pleased with the vehicle, but I've had a couple of issues with the brakes sticking. On both occassions I've had a garage attend to it, the most recent being an MOT failure.
I'm a novice DIY mechanic, but like to do as much as I can. Previously I've worked on a Fiat Seicento and every six months I service its brakes. It has some unique/common issues that I know how to deal with and I keep the brakes in top condition.
So far, I've not done anything with the Disco 2 brakes, likely why I've had these two issues. I want to start servicing the Disco 2 brakes. I have the Haynes manual, but can someone suggest regular things to check and and attend to for a bi-annual brake service?
Thanks
Click to expand...
You really shouldn't have a problem. the Haynes covers it very well, for once. You may find the pins stick inside their boots etc. But you can take them out and either replace them or clean them up. The rest of the system is very simple.
As with all disc brake systems, all you need to check is that there are no leaks of brake fluid, there is enough meat on the pads and discs, and that the pistons aren't sticking. If the latter are sticking you might wish to replace the callipers rather than taking out the pistons and replacing them. They aren't that expensive, not that I have ever needed to do it, as the pistons respond well to calliper grease! And keeping them clean, of course.
Best of luck.
:):):)
 
Sliders and er sliders, make sure pad contact areas are clean, pistons retract cleanly and evenly, then remove/check/lightly grease and refit the caliper sliders.
D2 onwards and the brakes are pretty much like any other car on the planet.
 
lynall said:
Sliders and er sliders, make sure pad contact areas are clean, pistons retract cleanly and evenly, then remove/check/lightly grease and refit the caliper sliders.
D2 onwards and the brakes are pretty much like any other car on the planet.
Click to expand...
+1^^^
 
Sorry for this simple question, and that it's been a long time before I've got round to the job. But, 'sliders': are these the two bolts (one upper and one lower) which when removed open up the calipers? They are called 'guide pins' in the Haynes manual. I've had a go on one wheel, taking out these bolts, checking that the piston moves, and squiring copper grease onto the bolts.
 
ANR said:
Sorry for this simple question, and that it's been a long time before I've got round to the job. But, 'sliders': are these the two bolts (one upper and one lower) which when removed open up the calipers? They are called 'guide pins' in the Haynes manual. I've had a go on one wheel, taking out these bolts, checking that the piston moves, and squiring copper grease onto the bolts.
Click to expand...
Yes mate. Use rubber friendly grease tho to save the boots
 
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ANR said:
Sorry for this simple question, and that it's been a long time before I've got round to the job. But, 'sliders': are these the two bolts (one upper and one lower) which when removed open up the calipers? They are called 'guide pins' in the Haynes manual. I've had a go on one wheel, taking out these bolts, checking that the piston moves, and squiring copper grease onto the bolts.
Click to expand...
Long time! I should say so!
Long enough for me to read the last two posts before realising I'd actually posted on this last year!!!
 
ANR said:
Sorry for this simple question, and that it's been a long time before I've got round to the job. But, 'sliders': are these the two bolts (one upper and one lower) which when removed open up the calipers? They are called 'guide pins' in the Haynes manual. I've had a go on one wheel, taking out these bolts, checking that the piston moves, and squiring copper grease onto the bolts.
Click to expand...
Copper grease is no good on the sliders/guide pins as believe it or not it can seize.
Place I worked at had a big issue with caliper slides seizing and it came back to the van mechs using copaslip on the sliders/guides.

Also it turns out copaslip can cause corrosion if used between alloy wheels and the steel hubs.

In a nutshell copaslip is grade A shti!
 
lynall said:
Copper grease is no good on the sliders/guide pins as believe it or not it can seize.
Place I worked at had a big issue with caliper slides seizing and it came back to the van mechs using copaslip on the sliders/guides.

Also it turns out copaslip can cause corrosion if used between alloy wheels and the steel hubs.

In a nutshell copaslip is grade A shti!
Click to expand...
Ceramic grease better for the pad ears, is it ok for sliders as well?
 
lynall said:
Copper grease is no good on the sliders/guide pins as believe it or not it can seize.
Place I worked at had a big issue with caliper slides seizing and it came back to the van mechs using copaslip on the sliders/guides.

Also it turns out copaslip can cause corrosion if used between alloy wheels and the steel hubs.

In a nutshell copaslip is grade A shti!
Click to expand...
I think it does have its purposes, and I admit to using it a lot, but you obvs need to know its limitations and not just "splash it on all over!!";)
 
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