ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 1, 2020

I have just purchased a replacement Hitachi style suspension compressor (SKP) and have had c1a13-64 pressure not releasing when venting errors. Having read as much as I could and having checked several other things suggested on this forum, I tried to swap the exhaust valve from the old pump. Unfortunately, the head sheared off; however, when drilled through I can see a big difference.
The new pump exhaust valve has a large hole with nothing to centre the spring, while the old pump has a recess just big enough for the spring.
The other notable difference is the old chamber appears to be clean while the new one after a short time when it worked is blackened.
I am looking for confirmation from those who have made the switch that the cap with the 17mm head should be solid other than a hole sized for the spring? Has anyone seen this before?
The variety of problems seen over the past couple of days could easily be as a result of the spring being free to move about.
I am in Canada and had the compressor shipped from the US, making it harder to return....kicking myself for going cheap!

ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 2, 2020

Update: I am not now sure the exhaust valve is the issue. I had been hearing a high pitch whine from the pilot exhaust solenoid. I unplugged and connected the pins to a 12 volt supply and the solenoid opened with a clunk and I could hear the exhaust open. To test this further I removed and wired up the solenoid from the old pump. It produced the same high pitch whine and I could see the valve had partially opened. Unless this is normal it would account for why the suspension is not going up. Any idea what voltage I should be seeing going to the pin feeding the white wire and would this be a constant live?

gstuart · Jan 2, 2020

Hi and welcome

Fault code for C1A13-64 possible causes -
ehaust valve stuck closed
gallery pipe blocked / damaged /crushed
air susp exhaust silencer blocked / restricted

here’s also a few links for u ref the suspension

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11480/description___operation.pdf

http://media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/Land Rover factory D3 air suspension description.pdf

was the old compressor an hitachi as well

when u start the disco can u hear the compressor run

what year is ur D3 please , thks

ps, have u got wiring diagrams or do u need them for the compressor circuit

sierrafery · Jan 2, 2020

Hi, the original compressor was also Hitachi? cos if the factory fitted one was AMK the Hitachi won't work no matter what you do

gstuart · Jan 2, 2020

sierrafery said:
Hi, the original compressor was also Hitachi? cos if the factory fitted one was AMK the Hitachi won't work no matter what you do

hi mate

Indeed , think the original one as u say for the D3 was hitachi , if as u say an amk was fitted beforehand needs the software update also relay change

also get a lot of issues with the 3 x connectors behind the front wheel arch that provides power and communication to the compressor

incandescent I know can also play havoc in the valve blocks

all good fun when trying to pin faults down as god knows I had a royal headache with mine in the beginning , virtually everything had been one way or another bodged

ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 2, 2020

The D3 is a 2008 and I replaced the original hitachi with an aftermarket hitachi style compressor. I rebuilt the old pump and it was working well other than the leaking end cap. I sealed it with epoxy and it worked okay for a short time. The only fault was the one related to raising slowly. As it was Christmas and it would take too long to get a new end cap I settled on purchasing the new pump.

Since fitting the new pump it has consistently gone to C1A13-64:
- worked for a couple of short journeys before going into the extended mode. I got the air out by removing the pipe from the end cap.
- it then worked for another 20km with just one code to clear related to no reported compressor temp before going into fault mode.
- after removing and refitting I took it for a short drive around the block. Everything seemed OK going into offroad and back to standard and then access. By the time I got home it had gone into fault mode.

When I release all air from the system the compressor will run for a few minutes until the fault returns and the pump stops. This morning it was doing some strange things that I now believe relates to the wiring going to the solenoid. With the rear exhaust pipe disconnected, I could hear it gently puffing every 10-15 seconds and then releasing a blast of exhaust every couple of minutes. I was watching the gallery pressure rising and falling as this happened.

The other thing leading me to think it is a wiring issue is the compressor temperature that has been there periodically but now is at 9.0. As it comes off the same wiring plug it seems plausible.

I forgot to mention that I have a Gap iid that I have been using to monitor and reset faults.

Thanks to your previous posts I have the wiring diagrams.

Where does the vehicle plug for the solenoid and compressor/motor temps connect? I would like to test the continuity. As I have had to unplug and plug multiple times, I am thinking the problem may be at the plug end but not sure how best to test this.

ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 2, 2020

Thanks to you both for the responses. I will go and check the connectors in the front wheel arch. It is almost 9 pm here.........I may need to continue the fun tomorrow!

gstuart · Jan 2, 2020

ALB_LR3/4 said:
Thanks to you both for the responses. I will go and check the connectors in the front wheel arch. It is almost 9 pm here.........I may need to continue the fun tomorrow!

ur very welcome

I had to rebuild virtually my entire suspension because of previous owners bodging it

will try and help all I can step by step to see if we can pin it down for u

also have a gap iid so can relate to that

will have a good read of ur thread and can chat later

gstuart · Jan 2, 2020

A few start points if I may please

does the disco drop overnight

Have u checked the heights of ur suspension in normal ride height

U having the gap with help a lot, have u checked the live data of the air compressor

here’s also a data sheet of what the readings should be

gstuart · Jan 2, 2020

ALB_LR3/4 said:
Thanks to you both for the responses. I will go and check the connectors in the front wheel arch. It is almost 9 pm here.........I may need to continue the fun tomorrow!

connectors are ur drivers side, behind the front wheel arch liner , as per pic u can see them bottom right

also u can select live data on ur gap iid, enclosed an example

gstuart · Jan 2, 2020

This shows u the connectors and what voltage u should get at the relevant connectors , ie height sensors , pressure sensor etc

alas is for a RHD disco, but think the ecu is on ur passenger side ??

At least then with this info here u can read it at ur leisure

Ps, ur gap iid will tell us this , also included a full gap iid manual

https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/wordpress/web-ajax/download.php?f=IIDToolV3.00.pdf

if u need any workshop manuals feel free to ask

also assume you replaced ur oil pump cover when the timing belts were done, known weak point after 2007, that’s if u have the TDV6 2.7 engine

ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 2, 2020

Wow, thanks for all of this. It helps to know what I am looking for when I access the wheel arch. What a crazy place to locate wiring connectors! I had to admit defeat and will tackle it when I get home from work tomorrow.

I have the 4.4 petrol V8 in the LR3 and the 5.0 V8 petrol in the LR4. No diesel Disco's sold in Canada.

I would be lost without the Gap iid. It has paid for itself many times over.

Have a good day and I will report back any progress this time tomorrow. - Michael

ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 3, 2020

I stripped out the wheel arch liner and after some head scratching I realized the 2008 D3 has the wiring connectors behind the LH headlight. Checked for continuity - all good. Checked for voltage to the connector block by the headlight. No sign of corrosion or chafed wires. After reconnecting the connector block I was able to get a voltage reading where it connects to the solenoid. I am just giving the battery a charge before putting it to the test. Fingers crossed!

ALB_LR3/4 · Jan 3, 2020

Still broken.
The pump will run but and build up gallery pressure. It seemed to slow down at 109psi and then drop the C1A13-64 fault as soon as I try to go up/down. No movement off the bump stops though.
What seems to be happening is the Pilot Exhaust Solenoid is opening slightly and this will stop the pressure from building and accounts for the slow build-up. To test this I disconnected the multi plug and applied 12v to briefly open the exhaust valve. The motor runs and was up to 175psi and presumably filling the air tank. As soon as I closed the door the compressor stopped with no temp signal and general electrical exhaust valve failure (to be expected with the plug disconnected).
What would be sending a small amount of power to the Pilot Exhaust Valve causing it to open constantly?
When I turn the engine off the valve remains live and I can hear a high pitched whine and short, soft bursts from the exhaust with the occasional normal exhaust release.

gstuart · Jan 3, 2020

ALB_LR3/4 said:
Still broken.
The pump will run but and build up gallery pressure. It seemed to slow down at 109psi and then drop the C1A13-64 fault as soon as I try to go up/down. No movement off the bump stops though.
What seems to be happening is the Pilot Exhaust Solenoid is opening slightly and this will stop the pressure from building and accounts for the slow build-up. To test this I disconnected the multi plug and applied 12v to briefly open the exhaust valve. The motor runs and was up to 175psi and presumably filling the air tank. As soon as I closed the door the compressor stopped with no temp signal and general electrical exhaust valve failure (to be expected with the plug disconnected).
What would be sending a small amount of power to the Pilot Exhaust Valve causing it to open constantly?
When I turn the engine off the valve remains live and I can hear a high pitched whine and short, soft bursts from the exhaust with the occasional normal exhaust release.

hiya

that’s a shame it didn’t work , apologises if I ask the same question twice

1) does the suspension drop overnight
2) have u tried linking the suspensions relay out that’s in the engine bay plse

when u removed the old compressor was there any white dust inside the pipes as if the old silica breaks down it can cause havoc around the system and into the valve blocks

however , don’t need to go down that route yet

have u also plugged ur gap iid in a selected the live data to see if the valve blocks are opening and what the compressors motor temperature is , u can also see what the exhaust valve is doing via the iid , don’t worry there is a madness behind the theory

Thks

gstuart · Jan 3, 2020

Also meant to say the pressure sensor is on the reservoir valve block next the compressor ,

please ensure the wires are sound as if there’s a broken wire or bad connection it sends a bad signal back to the ecu

will wait to hear back from u and can go step by step

Ps, make sure all the doors m boot and bonnet are closed when running the suspension

gstuart · Jan 3, 2020

gstuart · Jan 3, 2020

Sorry forgot @ALB_LR3/4

on the hitachi compressor cap u have 2 x pipes , one goes to the silencer and the other to the air inlet filter

pull both these off at the end cap and see what it does please

thks

gstuart · Jan 3, 2020

gstuart · Jan 3, 2020

Ref this

When I turn the engine off the valve remains live and I can hear a high pitched whine and short, soft bursts from the exhaust with the occasional normal exhaust release.

Reply
after u have turned the engine off can u hear any air leaks , ie from air tank or around that area , if u lift the cover off the compressor and have a good listen

if in doubt use some soapy water

once the engine has been turned off and compressor stops running u should only hear a single hiss

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