Grebby

Active Member
I have been driving round without a front prop for a while due to a knackered UJ that then cracked the yoke :mad:

Anyway... during this week my diff lock light decided to start working, it never did before. Sometimes it didn't come on straight away if I dis-engaged and re-engaged diff lock but a couple of hundred meters after setting off.

Obviously diff lock had engaged as I was moving so I assumed that the switch was not correctly adjusted.

Today I got the tunnel cover off and had a play. After a search on here I went to work. I had diff lock selected and wound the switch in until the light came on, then an extra half turn. However if I take it out of diff lock I can't get it back in :(
I've wound the switch back out a couple of turns so I have diff lock working but the light not. The wiring is fine as I checked if I shorted the switch terminals the light came on straight away every time.

Any ideas what's going on?o_O Could this be a knackered switch or a more serious problem?

Cheers
Grebby
 
Hang on here,is the front prop now back on? The light only comes on when the diff lock engages not when the lever is moved.Sometimes the light comes on when you move the lever just because the diff is in the right spot. I think it was working as it should,at least it was until you messed with it.
 
I spent ages (maybe hours?) Years ago trying to set up the switch part way through my rebuild. The truck couldn't be driven and no matter how I set it, it wouldn't light up or go out consistently.
I gave up and discovered the truck needed to move before the light would go out and thus easy to set it up correctly once I was on the road again.
 
So obviously there has been quite some time of driving around with it locked, but no light. Then the light has decided to just come on? If that's the case it could just be the switch. How is it wired?
 
I have been driving round without a front prop for a while due to a knackered UJ that then cracked the yoke :mad:

Anyway... during this week my diff lock light decided to start working, it never did before. Sometimes it didn't come on straight away if I dis-engaged and re-engaged diff lock but a couple of hundred meters after setting off.

Obviously diff lock had engaged as I was moving so I assumed that the switch was not correctly adjusted.

Today I got the tunnel cover off and had a play. After a search on here I went to work. I had diff lock selected and wound the switch in until the light came on, then an extra half turn. However if I take it out of diff lock I can't get it back in :(
I've wound the switch back out a couple of turns so I have diff lock working but the light not. The wiring is fine as I checked if I shorted the switch terminals the light came on straight away every time.

Any ideas what's going on?o_O Could this be a knackered switch or a more serious problem?

Cheers
Grebby
new switch
 
Thanks, I'll get a new switch in.
tottot - new prop is not back in yet. I know diff lock is engaged as Landy tries to move when it is but not when it isn't. It's rather strange watching the front drive flange on the transfer box turning through the hole where the tunnel cover should be. The light hasn't worked for years with diff lock did/does.
Flossie - with no front prop attached as far as the drive train is concerned the landy is moving. Besides the light was setup with difflock engaged and was fine until dis-engaged and then it wouldn't re-engage. Light went out as soon as difflock dis-engaged.
Discokids - The last week difflock has been engaged just to carry on using Landy. A couple of days in the light came on. I don't do many miles daily and haven't really driven for any time with difflock engaged previously. Obviously when it needed but that's not often or for any length of time. Light never worked before. The switch is wired to connect wire from dash to earth when triggered. Wires are fine as shorting switch terminals triggers light.
James - Thank you.
 
As above, the switches are known to give trouble . I believe they were designed for the flintstones car.
 
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Because your diff was locked for an extended time that dumb switch finaly gave in and connected.:D New switch.
 
I spent ages (maybe hours?) Years ago trying to set up the switch part way through my rebuild. The truck couldn't be driven and no matter how I set it, it wouldn't light up or go out consistently.
I gave up and discovered the truck needed to move before the light would go out and thus easy to set it up correctly once I was on the road again.
I bought a new switch for my defender. Wound it in fully, and light goes on and off when I engage/ disengage diff lock while stationary.
 
I spent ages (maybe hours?) Years ago trying to set up the switch part way through my rebuild. The truck couldn't be driven and no matter how I set it, it wouldn't light up or go out consistently.
I gave up and discovered the truck needed to move before the light would go out and thus easy to set it up correctly once I was on the road again.
it doesnt its just that when you push lever to select what you are doing is loading a spring that pushes on diff lock selector fork ,if splines arent aligned fork doesnt move, turning output shaft or t/box will allow alignment, if switch is wound in too far since its operated by been pushed up by the fork it can jam fork so fork cant move by the pressure from the spring youve applied by the lever
 

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