Alan Crossley

Alan Crossley

Well-Known Member
This is my ongoing saga. I have had to repaint the front third of my Defender bonnet where the paint was damaged by heat.

I have removed and rubbed down with very fine wet paper, under coated the area and left to dry.

Before I paint the colour over the under coat, should I use the wet paper and give the surface a final flattening?
 
Magicgrotto said:
YES with 1200 w/d paper , panel wipe then spray !:)
Click to expand...

Thank you Mr Magicgrotto. When I use the panel wipe (which I think is a special cloth that will not leave any bits of fluff ?) can I use it with a chemical cleaner?

The bonnet is LR Jarva Black and has become very dusty from the over spray. I purposely did not mask of the area to ensure that I didn't leave an obvious "join" in the job.
 
Panel wipe is a chemical cleaner ! Tac rag for taking fluff off !
If it were mine I would Flat the whole bonnet down & Spray it ALL ! :):)
 
I take it that Jarva black is a satin black ?
The rezone to spray All the bonnet is so that you don't get join lines & different shades :oops::(
 
Magicgrotto said:
I take it that Jarva black is a satin black ?
The rezone to spray All the bonnet is so that you don't get join lines & different shades :oops::(
Click to expand...
+1, no way you can spray only one area without leaving an obvious join. Are you lacquering over the top coat?
 
Alibro said:
Are you lacquering over the top coat?
Click to expand...
YES Mate !
2/3 coats of base coat ( you do NOT need to spray for a finish) 20 mins between coats ! Spray on DRY so you don't get runs Leave for 12 hrs flat back with 1200 w/d 'Panel wipe tac rag Spray with Lacquer 3/4 coats (20/30 mins between coats)
Yes it will SCARE you sh!t less flating the black down & taking the shine out BUT the Lacquer puts it back:):)
 
I've sprayed panels loads of times with varying degrees of success. If the paint is a good match you'll not need to top coat the whole bonnet unless you really want to. Just use a scotch pad or 1200 grit to rough the whole bonnet, spray where you need with top coat flatten back then lacquer the WHOLE bonnet. The lacquer out of a rattle can will always leave a nasty orange peel but this will be lessened if you flatten the top coat. Leave the lacquer to dry, rub back with 2000 wet n dry then buff with G3 or similar.
Buy the best lacquer you can find and spray it as thick as you dare, the Halfords Bodyshop Lacquer is pretty good.
 
Watching with interest guys as about to paint my 101 would you take removable panels off to get a decent working height I know it doesn't have a bonnet but doors\drop sides etc am thinking raptor tintable
 
If you have a compressor then get a spray gun and practice on an old panel. Even a cheap spray gun will be better than a rattle can with a little practice.
 
Thanks to you all for your response to my questions.

Did the job and the paint reacted with either the primer or, the original gellcoat:mad: what a feckin mess. :eek: The finish is okay in some places and like a miniature map of the Hymalian mountains :eek:

May be I'll just take it to a professional body shop and let them have the job. I got a price of €150.00 which, in the long or short run, was a lot less expensive than me making a complete balls up :rolleyes:. I never learn
 
Does not need flatting wet before colour coat. Last coat of primer should just be de nibbed dry and de dusted lightly with tack rag to give a grippy surface for first coat of finish then colour coat applied
 
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