NigeC

New Member
Hi - my td5 was working fine. Then started hesitating. Now just cranks and will not start. I have been through pretty much everything:

- replaced fuel pressure reg
- new filter and fuel line connectors
- new crank pos sensor
- new intertia switch

Recently has a complete head replacement with reconditioned injectors and new glow plugs. All actuate fine using Nanocom and has been running like a dream until this issue.

Has to be something really silly but cannot work it out…..
 
Yeah I wondered about that. Replaced the cps and the starter…. Still no joy.

Like looking for a needle in a haystack! Wondering if a garage professional obd will show more than my Nanocom.
 
It is very strange. Was running fine, then started to run a bit rough and cut out. Leave for 30 mins or so and it would start again, then run rough and then eventually would not start at all. Thought it was fuel, cps, pump, regulator, isolation switch - but all replaced (except fuel pump - but the pump seems to run fine as priming sends fuel through no probs). Kinda running out of ideas and may have to resort to taking it to a specialist garage. Prob find it’s an elec prob of some sort I guess.
 
Maybe fuel pressure is low?
I do believe the relays also have a habit of making poor connections.
The fuel filter housing also has a habit of corroding or the non return valve in the housing sometimes need replacing.
Sure someone else with more experience will be along soon.
 
Hi - my td5 was working fine. Then started hesitating. Now just cranks and will not start. I have been through pretty much everything:

- replaced fuel pressure reg
- new filter and fuel line connectors
- new crank pos sensor
- new intertia switch

Recently has a complete head replacement with reconditioned injectors and new glow plugs. All actuate fine using Nanocom and has been running like a dream until this issue.

Has to be something really silly but cannot work it out…..
Check this out https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/

and BTW no diag tool can do more than nanocom for the Td5 engine.... meassure voltage while cranking on the battery, if it drops below 10.5V it will never start
 
I had something similar a few years ago when my ECU was in the process of failing. It would run very roughly with a good deal of smoke, and leave 'peak charge long' errors on the Nanocom. If these were cleared it could be started and would run fine, until it happened again. Eventually it would not make the engine run properly at all and the ECU repair firm that had previously mended it said they couldn't fix it and gave me refund. It's also possible to have an ECU which appears healthy on the Nanocom but be useless for starting the car. I've got one upstairs like that in my Land Rover Black Museum. I've now got two working ECUs, one running the car and another I carry with me on outings as a spare. It's also handy for diagnostic purposes - swap 'em over and see if the fault persists.

I don't think anyone's mentioned oil in loom yet. Have a look at the multiplug where the wires go onto the cylinder head (on the (UK) driver's side of the engine near the front) and see if there's any oil visible. As the Defender's ECU is mounted a long way from the engine it often doesn't make it as far as the ECU, but by the time it's reached the plug there's enough to cause trouble.

Another problem I've had that caused intermittent cutting out was the fuel filter. The small rubber seal in the middle of the fuel filter got rucked up and wasn't sealing properly. A friend had a similar problem which turned out to be the fluff in his Britpart (of course) fuel filter getting wadded up against the holes in the top of the filter casing and restricting the fuel flow. It's just a can stuffed with fluff, surely even Britpart can't get that wrong. Oh yes they can.

OK, so there's a few more suggestions.
 
I had something similar a few years ago when my ECU was in the process of failing. It would run very roughly with a good deal of smoke, and leave 'peak charge long' errors on the Nanocom. If these were cleared it could be started and would run fine, until it happened again. Eventually it would not make the engine run properly at all and the ECU repair firm that had previously mended it said they couldn't fix it and gave me refund. It's also possible to have an ECU which appears healthy on the Nanocom but be useless for starting the car. I've got one upstairs like that in my Land Rover Black Museum. I've now got two working ECUs, one running the car and another I carry with me on outings as a spare. It's also handy for diagnostic purposes - swap 'em over and see if the fault persists.

I don't think anyone's mentioned oil in loom yet. Have a look at the multiplug where the wires go onto the cylinder head (on the (UK) driver's side of the engine near the front) and see if there's any oil visible. As the Defender's ECU is mounted a long way from the engine it often doesn't make it as far as the ECU, but by the time it's reached the plug there's enough to cause trouble.

Another problem I've had that caused intermittent cutting out was the fuel filter. The small rubber seal in the middle of the fuel filter got rucked up and wasn't sealing properly. A friend had a similar problem which turned out to be the fluff in his Britpart (of course) fuel filter getting wadded up against the holes in the top of the filter casing and restricting the fuel flow. It's just a can stuffed with fluff, surely even Britpart can't get that wrong. Oh yes they can.

OK, so there's a few more suggestions.
Thanks so much. Got a great set of ideas and posters from everyone now..:: fingers crossed !
 
Thanks so much. Got a great set of ideas and posters from everyone now..:: fingers crossed !
Ok all - answer….

Faulty ECU. Gratec (Maldon) put their spare on today and she started in 2 secs. Thank you Stephanie and team!

Ecu sent for recon / swap.
 

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