Has anyone encountered this Defender 90 200tdi problem before?

Replaced gearbox and transfer box complete with low mileage unit from a 1989 turbo diesel 90. It fitted OK, but can hardly get it into gear. It had a brand new Valeo clutch, plus the spigot bush. There is plenty of clutch pressure, but can only get into gear by switching off engine, then engage gear and re-start engine, can then just about drive it through the gears. Could the new spigot bush be the problem? or is the bell housing different on the turbo diesel perhaps? Or is it something else - can anyone help? Thanks David

dounds like a belkl housing problem, you should hacve used the original bellhousing

Bit the bullet and fitted exchange gearbox and fitted original bell housing. Also dismantled clutch to check new components were the correct parts ... they were - but the same problem of can't get it into gear continues - have I stumbled on a unique Land Rover problem or has someone encountered similar? Bloody hard work too taking those heavy boxes in and out too!

is the clutch working ok, did you check the clutch arm, have you tried bleeding it

Yep, bled the clutch too - in fact there is loads of pressure and it feels very smooth. Was wondering if new spigot bush might be tight on the input shaft - can't think what else it could possibly be.

Well, just to complete the story in case anyone else has similar problem - it's now sorted.

Problem was a dragging clutch - i.e. not fully disengaging.
Tried all the usual fixes, clutch bleeding etc, then resorted to trial and error:

First re-installed original clutch and it worked perfectly; by putting back new clutch components one by one and testing (now a dab hand and getting that gearbox in and out) I found the brand new pressure plate was faulty - and get this, it was a Landrover genuine part new in box (Valeo).
Who would have thought it?

So, moral of story - don't throw out any old bits until you are absolutely certain the new bits work.

P.S. if you really like taking land rover gearboxes in and out - I found that by building a wooden tripod inside the vehicle and taking off the internal gearbox cover, with a block and chain hanging off the tripod the job is a piece of cake - just don't forget to keep a trolley jack under the box when working underneath - just for safety - as a land rover gearbox on the head is bound to spoil your weekend.

David

internal gearbox cover,

Click to expand...

D'you mean the gearchange housing, thats how I do it. You've got to support the clutch housing though, it saves having to take the fan cowling off and coolant pipes as Haines's way requires.

I did it this way:

Free radiator cowling (I took fan off too or good measure - but it's not essential as there is plenty of room in front of the rad), next take off the internal gearbox cover (transmission tunnel), undo the screw holding relay for heater plugs, undo exhaust connection (but no need to remove front down pipe), take weight of gearbox on my internal tripod and chain block, remove crossmember, pull gearbox breather pipes through, take off reverse light connector wires and diff lock connectors, remove prop shafts, remove gearbox support brackets, then lower engine and box using the tripod hoist until cylinder head is resting against bulkhead (there is no problem with straining hoses and fuel pipes on the Defender, the hoses allow this much movement easiliy, might be different in a Discovery though), keep weight of gearbox on the tripod and chain block, take off slave cylinder and its exhaust heat shield, undo bell housing bolts, position yourself under the engine which is safely resting against bulkhead, push gearbox off engine, and then it just hangs there on the chain block - I had the straps around main gearbox, and this left plenty of swing to move it back to get at clutch, this has the advantage of gearbox remaining in exact position ready to be slid back through the clutch.

Pics available if interested.

This is what I knocked up as a lifting rig. If I support the clutch housing and undo the bell housing nuts, the gearbox supported by a block and tackle on the lifting frame, can be slid back without having to lower the engine.

I see what you mean - isn't there a cross section on the seatbox fouling on the gear linkage? or do you remove the entire remote shift mechanism too. Did you find it awkward reaching the bell housing nuts without tilting the engine?

Here's my rather basic but effective rig.

I Took the gear shift gubbins off it's only four bolts. Theres a cowl type thing in front of the transmission tunnel that comes off 8 or so screws, and you can get at all the bell housing nuts easy peasy.

I'm about to take the piggin' thing out again (3rd time this year) just need the motivation.