julianf

julianf

Well-Known Member
Spent all day and ended up no further forwards.

300 tdi 110 csw - bulkhead swap.

Cant get the doors functional. Gap is fine at the bottom of b post. Overlapping to the extent that the door wont close at the top.

Is the bukhead really just located with two points? The A post feet to outriggers, and the chassis to footwell brackets?

If i move the chassis brackets as far forwards as they will go, and pack out the a post foot to outrigger bolt with 8mm worth of washers, the bulkhead still tilts the doors too far back.

I cant pack many more washers in, otherwise the feet will conflict with the sills. I cant move the chassis brackets further forward as im at the end of their elongated holes.

Am i missing somthing? The footwell brackets dont seem enough to hold the bulkhead at the angle with the weight of the doors levering it down towards the rear.


Points to note -

Outriggers have been replaced, but were fitted to the old bulkhead, so am pretty sure theyre in the right place.
Sills have been replaced, but measure identically to my friends 90 (b post to sill end)


I mean it could all just be a mess, but i dont think it is. I feel like theres no hope of keeping the bulkhead up in place with 2 fixings at the bottom (feet to outrigger, and footwell to chassis), Is it supposed to stay in place with just these?

Thank you.
 
julianf said:
Spent all day and ended up no further forwards.

300 tdi 110 csw - bulkhead swap.

Cant get the doors functional. Gap is fine at the bottom of b post. Overlapping to the extent that the door wont close at the top.

Is the bukhead really just located with two points? The A post feet to outriggers, and the chassis to footwell brackets?

If i move the chassis brackets as far forwards as they will go, and pack out the a post foot to outrigger bolt with 8mm worth of washers, the bulkhead still tilts the doors too far back.

I cant pack many more washers in, otherwise the feet will conflict with the sills. I cant move the chassis brackets further forward as im at the end of their elongated holes.

Am i missing somthing? The footwell brackets dont seem enough to hold the bulkhead at the angle with the weight of the doors levering it down towards the rear.


Points to note -

Outriggers have been replaced, but were fitted to the old bulkhead, so am pretty sure theyre in the right place.
Sills have been replaced, but measure identically to my friends 90 (b post to sill end)


I mean it could all just be a mess, but i dont think it is. I feel like theres no hope of keeping the bulkhead up in place with 2 fixings at the bottom (feet to outrigger, and footwell to chassis), Is it supposed to stay in place with just these?

Thank you.
Click to expand...
pics would help
 
julianf said:
Spent all day and ended up no further forwards.

300 tdi 110 csw - bulkhead swap.

Cant get the doors functional. Gap is fine at the bottom of b post. Overlapping to the extent that the door wont close at the top.

Is the bukhead really just located with two points? The A post feet to outriggers, and the chassis to footwell brackets?

If i move the chassis brackets as far forwards as they will go, and pack out the a post foot to outrigger bolt with 8mm worth of washers, the bulkhead still tilts the doors too far back.

I cant pack many more washers in, otherwise the feet will conflict with the sills. I cant move the chassis brackets further forward as im at the end of their elongated holes.

Am i missing somthing? The footwell brackets dont seem enough to hold the bulkhead at the angle with the weight of the doors levering it down towards the rear.

those with screen and roof are more than enough, are hinges new,adjusted fully
Points to note -

Outriggers have been replaced, but were fitted to the old bulkhead, so am pretty sure theyre in the right place.
Sills have been replaced, but measure identically to my friends 90 (b post to sill end)


I mean it could all just be a mess, but i dont think it is. I feel like theres no hope of keeping the bulkhead up in place with 2 fixings at the bottom (feet to outrigger, and footwell to chassis), Is it supposed to stay in place with just these?

Thank you.
Click to expand...
 
I cant think these are of much use.

they are from before the start of today. nothing was tighened up when they were taken, but, tightening it all up (with spacers on the a post foot) didnt change things a great deal

out.jpg
foot.jpg
bot.jpg
top.jpg
sill.jpg



Sill is box section with fabricated end. But terminates exactly the same distance from the b post as my friends 90 sill terminates from his.

The gap at the bottom of the door is about right. I know there are not spacers in in the photo above, but the spacers, when fitted, push the base of the door to a pretty good distance from the b post. Ie im happy with that.

So, i think the outrigger and spacers are about right.

But the top of the door is way off.

But i cant bring the chassis to footwell bracket any further toward the front of the vehical. In the shot above, its not at full extension, but it was at the end of the day.

If i put in more spacers, ill do two things - ill close up the gap at the bottom of the door more than i really want to, and, more importantly, ill have to chop down the sill, as the foot wont have any further to go back. I mean, i could do this, as its fabricated anyway, but, as i say, its spot on the right length (as compared to my friends factory 90)
 
are these two no good -


bottom of door -

(door gap pretty much the same between front door and b post as b post to 2nd door)
bot-jpg.201960



top of door -

so much overlap with b post that door wont shut. This got better when i tighened up the chassis to footwell brackets and moved them forward as far as they would go, but still too much to operate the door.



top-jpg.201961
 
julianf said:
are these two no good -


bottom of door -

(door gap pretty much the same between front door and b post as b post to 2nd door)
bot-jpg.201960



top of door -

so much overlap with b post that door wont shut. This got better when i tighened up the chassis to footwell brackets and moved them forward as far as they would go, but still too much to operate the door.



top-jpg.201961
Click to expand...
check hinges for wear and adjustment, pushing bulkhead bottom forward will tilt door down, its best to fit footwell bracket to footwell and let it move at chassis
 
re hinge adjustment -

I assumed there was no adjustment? Id assumed that the doors just hung where they hung? I couldnt think that, hitching up the door, and tighening up the hinge bolts would work? I assumed they would just slip down to find their own level over time regardless?


re bracket -

at one point i took off the fastenings to the footwell, and mounted the bracket as far fowards as it would go on the chassis, and then used the fasteners between the bracket and footwell to pull in the footwell, in the hopes that it would pivot (on the outriggers) forward, towards the front of the motor, and pull the top edges of the doors forward. but it didnt. or at least not by much.

Does the roof / windscreen play any part in any of this? I mean does the windscreen prop forward the bulkhead at all? I cant really think so?
 
julianf said:
re hinge adjustment -

I assumed there was no adjustment? Id assumed that the doors just hung where they hung? I couldnt think that, hitching up the door, and tighening up the hinge bolts would work? I assumed they would just slip down to find their own level over time regardless?


re bracket -

at one point i took off the fastenings to the footwell, and mounted the bracket as far fowards as it would go on the chassis, and then used the fasteners between the bracket and footwell to pull in the footwell, in the hopes that it would pivot (on the outriggers) forward, towards the front of the motor, and pull the top edges of the doors forward. but it didnt. or at least not by much.

Does the roof / windscreen play any part in any of this? I mean does the windscreen prop forward the bulkhead at all? I cant really think so?
Click to expand...
roof and screen angle all play a part, the parts do sag over time,hinges are adjustable easiest way is a bottle jack under the rear part of door bottom ,slacken hinges and use jack to adjust then tighten and retry gaps, its usually a little adjustment in all parts, odd times ive had to slot footwell bracket to chassis mounting holes at the chassis end
 
jamesmartin said:
roof and screen angle all play a part, the parts do sag over time,hinges are adjustable easiest way is a bottle jack under the rear part of door bottom ,slacken hinges and use jack to adjust then tighten and retry gaps, its usually a little adjustment in all parts, odd times ive had to slot footwell bracket to chassis mounting holes at the chassis end
Click to expand...

That was the only one that id seen left.

I mean, if i put in more spacers on the a post feet, i push the door gap smaller at the bottom also, and the sills start to conflict.
But if i pull the footwells forward more, i maintain the gap at the bottom of the doors (good thing) but increase the gap at the top.

You reckon its worth putting the roof and windscreen in before doing that though?
 
julianf said:
That was the only one that id seen left.

I mean, if i put in more spacers on the a post feet, i push the door gap smaller at the bottom also, and the sills start to conflict.
But if i pull the footwells forward more, i maintain the gap at the bottom of the doors (good thing) but increase the gap at the top.

You reckon its worth putting the roof and windscreen in before doing that though?
Click to expand...
id like to see a full side shot
 
I might be getting the wrong end of the stick here but I don't think you'll be able to line anything up until you get at least a couple of bolts in to start locating the top of screen to roof.
 
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