JoMo1974

JoMo1974

Member
For one reason or another, I'm trying to remove the cylinder head from my 109 S3 2.6L petrol.

I've managed to get the rocker cover off and remove all (at least I think all) of the bolts without disaster (penetrating oil is my new best friend).
But there are a few parts I'm unsure about and I wondered if anyone has any advice.

The first bit is the dizzy. It's still an original one with points etc.
It doesn't seem obvious to me how it comes off - any clues?
Also, what (if anything) can I do in terms of retaining or simplifying the setup of the timing when (if?) it all goes back together.

Is TDC found the old fashioned way of (gently) dropping a log screwdriver down bore #1 and cranking the engine until the screwdriver reaches its highest point?

Next issue is how to deal with what appears to be a join between the cylinder head and the water pump. It look s like I can get a spanner on the bit between the two. Is it as simple as that?

Finally (for now!), I'm guessing that the head is not going to come away without a fight. But I'm worried that if I apply too much pressure I might damage something (especially if there's some bolt or similar that I've overlooked). Are there any tips on how best to separate the head from the block?

IMG_4270.jpeg


IMG_4269.jpeg


IMG_4268.jpeg


Thanks
 
For the Head it SHOULD come free with a good tap from a rubber mallet but in the past on a triumph engine I needed to feed rope into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and then crank the engine over on the starter.

The dizzy I would guess is the same as any dizzy, loosen off a bolt on the bracket/clamp and lift it away.

The elbow looks as if it will come off by unbolting it and lifting it off
 
Yes, I agree with V8, a tap with a mallet usually shifts them. When you say.water pump, do you mean the thermostat housing? Just removing and replacing the head shouldnt disturb the timing unless the 2.5 engine is overhead cam, which I doubt but yes, I still determine tdc by sticking a long screwdriver down No 1 pot and turning the engine by hand until it reaches its zenith.

Col
 
Although your pics show to me you still have some head bolts in? I don't know the engine TBH.

Are you talking about the connection from the water pump to the head? I would think that looks like an O ring type connection.

As above for the distributor it will have a bolt that is slackened for timing adjustment, if you remove it the distributor should pull out.

Leave a couple of head bolts in by hand all the way ish. crank it for a sec ;)

As you are taking the head off you can mark TDC accurately on the crank pully easily if you have a dial gauge.

@BruceB took his apart maybe he can pipe in with advice :).

J
 
I would suggest that you put all the head bolts back in, torque them back up and then follow the correct procedure, uneven tightening and loosening can warp the head, the loosening is the reverse of the tightening, on any engine i initially just undo in the correct sequence each bolt just half a turn until all are loose,
Also dont forget to undo the oil feed,
Here is a pic from the s2a 2.6 petrol section of my manual,
Atb and good luck
 

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Hello, it's me the hapless have-a-go mechanic again 😝

So the head is off. Photos below:

IMG_4285.jpeg


IMG_4292.jpeg


IMG_4286.jpeg


Any recommendations as to how to clean it up, or recommendations for machine workshops in the SW London/Surrey area? I think one of the plugs thread has a knackered helicoil in there, so I need someone who can deal with that.
 
marjon said:
Why?

It needs a dam good clean and a straight edge


J
Click to expand...
Rynner's feeler gauges are very long, he knows it's warped ;). In fact he's probably assuming so since I didn't follow procedure in terms of loosening the bolts in order etc. He might be right, but yes it stands to reason it should be tested first.

Anyway, I assume that anyone able to deal with a naughty helicoil would have the wherewithal to skim if required.

How would you go about cleaning? Some sort of chemical spray? Would/could a clean make things worse in terms of loosening off the stuff that's keeping compression higher than it otherwise would be?
 
Do you have an oven that needs cleaning?

Mr Muscle and a green pad will get most off, for a start and won’t damage anything, it would give a good enough surface for a straight edge and somebody’s feeler gauges ;) .

J
 
A bit of 15mm copper pipe flattened at one end and filed sharp won’t damage the piston tops
even if you go to machine shop it needs to be stripped down , I would follow the workshop manual ,
depends on what measurement tools you have mics, bore measurement equipment , it there a wear ridge at top of cylinders , is hone marks still visible, I used a local engineering shop to recheck my bore measurements before I went rebore was only £20
strip valves out and have a good look at seats valves clean well with a wire brush in drill

what what wassit running like
 
steve2286w said:
A bit of 15mm copper pipe flattened at one end and filed sharp won’t damage the piston tops
even if you go to machine shop it needs to be stripped down , I would follow the workshop manual ,
depends on what measurement tools you have mics, bore measurement equipment , it there a wear ridge at top of cylinders , is hone marks still visible, I used a local engineering shop to recheck my bore measurements before I went rebore was only £20
strip valves out and have a good look at seats valves clean well with a wire brush in drill

what what wassit running like
Click to expand...
Was running ok apart from cylinder 6
 
marjon said:
Do you have an oven that needs cleaning?

Mr Muscle and a green pad will get most off, for a start and won’t damage anything, it would give a good enough surface for a straight edge and somebody’s feeler gauges ;) .

J
Click to expand...
I've read that oven cleaner generally contains stuff (sodium hydroxide etc) that eats aluminium so it might be ok on the piston heads but not sure about the cylinder head?
 
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