Ric82 · Mar 5, 2023

Hi all I'm after abit of advice

I'm looking to do the rear crack seal on my 2.25 diesel 5MB and I was just wondering if its possible to do the bearing block seals T shaped ones with the engine in situ?

I know most people say take the engine out I'm just looking at all my different options.

Also does anyone have the dimensions and angle of the little seal guide blocks as I was thinking of making some either 3d print or abit of metal.

To confirm I bought rear seal from turner's and the t shaped rubber ones.

Many thanks as always

Richard

steve2286w · Mar 5, 2023

Theoretically yes can be done, remove gearbox to give access and working on your back or in a pit. I managed mine without those blocks using flat blade screwdriver pushing seal in each side and tapping bearing cap down a bit and so on , it was a right arse on but with patience I managed it and that was with engine on stand

Ric82 · Mar 6, 2023

steve2286w said:
Theoretically yes can be done, remove gearbox to give access and working on your back or in a pit. I managed mine without those blocks using flat blade screwdriver pushing seal in each side and tapping bearing cap down a bit and so on , it was a right arse on but with patience I managed it and that was with engine on stand

View attachment 283949

Thanks Steve I think i will take the engine out and be done with it. Is there any other recommendations on things to check and change while the engine is out. She run and starts like a beauty put any recommendations are gratefully received.

Many Thanks
Richard

steve2286w · Mar 6, 2023

Good question, I would say It depends on timescale, budget, competence, how big is your toolbox and curiosity. My 5mb diesel in bits now and I’ve been going through the lot, even though started ok but a bit smoke , I found cracked hotspots , worn valves, main bearing shells showing the copper beneath the white metal, I’ve measured bores, crank bearings etc and currently working on my parts list.
So I’d definitely inspect main bearings( big ends on mine ok) , head off and check clean rockers valves , if it starts good then compression good , might be worth testing that before you dismantle , the workshop manual goes through the steps for all the engine bits so you can pick and choose which bits to do

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/

I like the turner guides too , also good for parts

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/articles

Ric82 · Mar 6, 2023

steve2286w said:
Good question, I would say It depends on timescale, budget, competence, how big is your toolbox and curiosity. My 5mb diesel in bits now and I’ve been going through the lot, even though started ok but a bit smoke , I found cracked hotspots , worn valves, main bearing shells showing the copper beneath the white metal, I’ve measured bores, crank bearings etc and currently working on my parts list.
So I’d definitely inspect main bearings( big ends on mine ok) , head off and check clean rockers valves , if it starts good then compression good , might be worth testing that before you dismantle , the workshop manual goes through the steps for all the engine bits so you can pick and choose which bits to do

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/

I like the turner guides too , also good for parts

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/articles
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/

Thanks Steve well my tool box is vast but my experience is limited but I have a plan. My dad is a mechanic and at 76 has just decided to hand his tools in as the modern stuff is getting on his nerves so I have someone that does know what he's doing when I get stuck and he has made shown me that not every trick can be found on the Internet. Well that's his words.

I will check all the bearing shells the head and top was done about 4 months ago and vales ground and a visual check of the head.

Many thanks
You guys do know your stuff and I appreciate all the advice.

Richard

steve2286w · Mar 6, 2023

Perfect job for old school dads just sit back and watch

boguing · Mar 7, 2023

A set of new core plugs would be cheap insurance.

Oh yes, and... you could do the crank seal from underneath, but you'd need at least a year's intensive therapy afterwards.

Ric82 · Mar 14, 2023

Thank everyone so things have changed abit since I posted. Somehow I have now manged to buy a spare engine let's not ask how this happened as the wife is on day 3 of her moaning as to why I need this. Apparently its different when she buys new shoes

Anyway last quick question I have bought some high tensile bolts 1/2 by 4" BSF to mount the engine to the stand will these bolts be the same for the 3 and 5 bearing engines? (Flywheel and housing removed)

Spare engine is a 3 bearing I plan on restoring.

Many thanks
Richard

steve2286w · Mar 14, 2023

googling the part numbers threads are unf, on my 5 bearing from 84 I used 10mm bolts x 100 on the engine stand

boguing · Mar 14, 2023

Certainly UNF on the 3 bearing - ain't not done a 5.

steve2286w · Mar 14, 2023

Not my own work but maybe useful

1/4"UNF for the rear cam gallery plate fixing bolts & thermostat housing bolts.
5/16"UNF for the cam gallery side covers, timing case, sump & the small rocker bolts.
3/8"UNF for the flywheellhousing to block bolts.
7/16"UNF for the oil filter bolts.
1/2"UNF for the large head bolts & the front engine mounting bolts into the block.
1/4"UNC for the small water pump bolts & the timing pointer studs in the flywheel housing.
3/8"UNC for the stud holes in the flywheel housing.
1/8"BSP for the banjo bolts in the rocker oil feed pipe.

Reply

Ric82 · Mar 27, 2023

Thanks everyone for the advice its greatly received before I strip the crank and Pistons down do I need to replace all the bearing block bolts and con rod bolts if so whats the most effective way to buy all these as when i start i want to crack on

I know it says you should just wanted to see what the rest of you guys do.

Many Thanks
Richard

boguing · Mar 27, 2023

Ric82 said:
Thanks everyone for the advice its greatly received before I strip the crank and Pistons down do I need to replace all the bearing block bolts and con rod bolts if so whats the most effective way to buy all these as when i start i want to crack on

I know it says you should just wanted to see what the rest of you guys do.

Many Thanks
Richard

As far as I remember the official LR manual doesn't suggest renewing. I never have!

Ric82 · May 8, 2023

Hey guys

So long weekend and I finally bit the bullet the engine is out and in the garage and I thought while I'm inside I would change the main and big end bearings at the same time as the seals and all the gaskets.

So after whipping one of the main bearings caps off they are standard and not it to bad a condition just a really tiny bit of brass showing and no pitting.

But the question I have is the big end bearing don't seem to have a size on them they just say Rover 5271172 and then below that 4746 does anyone know what size these are?

Then I can order all my bits and but it all back togeather

Many thanks as always Richard

boguing · May 8, 2023

My parts book gives the main bearings the number RTC1720 std, then RTC 1720/10 and /20, but I'll drop by the workshop and pick up the LR manual to get the official sizes so that you can have a measure.

steve2286w · May 8, 2023

For the 5mb it’s RTC1730 for big ends and
RTC2626 for the main bearings , if the copper is showing through then time for new ones , I’ve just received my bits from PA Blanchard they were KING brand seem fine

Ric82 · May 8, 2023

Just speaking to my dad he was saying back in the day if it didn't say the size normally there standard does this sound about right?

Does anyone know the thickness of a standard bug end bearing measuring mine it's about 0.79" if I have read the micrometer correctly.

Thanks
Richard

steve2286w · May 8, 2023

I would agree with dad, most likely standard , better measuring crank if unsure

boguing · May 8, 2023

@steve2286w - is that the 5 bearing? I realise now that my official manual is 3mb only...

For interest, this is what it says. And it's interesting that yours says no regrinds.

AJFCJaWhv5lXoFuOX9BV5TgeHeLvsYkLkeBHuGgQGRAyinGqS9Cmine5ZgkbU92kjbK-eIYvm-D-2YjK2XDixvkR_KmG5FkL7Pfb7xzyalcl0HFJE_KiooyQcgsF43kBtjIM0cj-esg0qLIcs39uxXmCqYY3K3fBfHQ9cd5tskTCFI0tIYvQJ02gSyT0STC3CwgxAHACQ5T6YnQXBFbiKXw9QLTIXxy3PdjikM116tA1H_4JaZmsfGCJhetwlMWPXa7Sl2Hr9mSOyHZLaOgDQrRFHLogE6MR8FNbDykrcPhivsF0_Bfg_zbDD08yUPXRMYK1qDEQQi0pwLZIPQ4ujQ9hU-I5clewwrt8aF-RVil3uGDN3eOEL8F1Sv_uuI1RajDqp4LF12lPkZ1E33zAQkIsgs7mWUxM2J5tPvpJq2bGK75Tb8rsLGs78aOzJpMjUejlN-XeHGK-ekT4UVNbQKm8G_lUZNUsZXDYDO77runAUL-KOFYotJTymWYoHrT4AWiGa2LUr-w97TgBV-2cELTII3UNjiwXcEQdf-5kLVfBAzw709H4wvkNPFUSiEVDO9igcbiQaXKesgJBM7a48KzxD8mLqiXHrtqSSx2D1K_Xa3dwsBkqBfDSAcmmNhskDKXFj-edcN331NTFzjxED-UcfxfrqlQIyT5vnupUU1wXZ6f2n66OUN1P2tQTw96tW0Z3XBf3_o3j1UKBlTEH1K3G5j5Me9NR98qFNmK2n1AO3YQEuDKK5JMXhjwX715suoYQThdeb0FOqt1RbJz6BhDtFkUdN3HP9BN8kA78bFLs56Vao8RIhlTdqIrET7eLYGzZbiuXVxy_flb2ljNT4_Vk46NETeDw5WrIFHKxuZ9oNmuejNheYDRSNMAucBCVday2_qTrxq3pYHfinLZGci-lPN0F0remfgsYjIf9TDZc0eZOm71ZdCw5RSOdk0e4nRshao2YTA_OM4E2Id9nmtXfgaiQlFtLzSH3sZYMrLo-zSw25b0L1ziQ1NZ5XxdHQNDBNA=w575-h767-s-no

Ric82 · May 8, 2023

Thanks guys for all your advise I have order standard big end bearings based on some assumptions that is the mains are standard I would assume the big ends are to as I think when a crank is ground the do them all.

Also based on the manual saying not to regrind and these have rover stamped in them and assume original.

But I will measure the crank to be 100% safe

Thanks everyone
Richard

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