Near the end of 2016 (18 months ago) I had issues with the engine management light coming on and the car not responding to the throttle, just idling, some people have referred to this as limp mode. Turning the engine off and on would clear the light and I could carry on. I tried swapping the accelerator pedal/TPS but unfortunately I ordered a 2 track one when I needed a 3 track. There was oil getting through to the ECU so I changed the injector harness and cleaned it the ECU plugs. Later I noticed my battery was pretty much shot so I changed it and the driver demand faults stopped immediately.

Recently I've been getting the same behaviour again, but I've also noticed that it feels like although the revs are going up the vehicle speed isn't as much. Sometimes the revs will go up with little actual acceleration a very sluggish feel and then without changing my position on the accelerator it'll lurch forward accelerating as I'd expect.

Does that sound like a slipping clutch? Would a slipping clutch be the cause of driver demand issues or have I got two problems?

I haven't actually checked my battery's condition but I'd hope that it would last longer than 18 months. I should probably check the ECU plugs again.
 
Do you mean you get driver demand fault codes logged again? ... i doubt that a slipping clutch would cause that but the climbing revs without motion is very like slipping clutch
 
Yes, I'm getting driver demand code and road speed missing. I don't have much more info than that from the diagnostics, the supposedly live feed of data tells me the revs are 4,250 when the engine is idling quietly and the driver demand voltages don't change as I press the pedal.

I've only ever encountered a slipping clutch on a motorbike because the cable was poorly adjusted so it's good to have my suspicion there checked.
 
Then i'm sure that all that data and fault codes are fake....plug a better tester in it like hawkeye or nanocom and you'll see
 
I'm not, it helped me find my ABS issues which are now fixed.
It can work with ABS but it's completely wrong with the Td5 engine i've seen that with my own eyes. those 4250 rpm and driver demand things are due to the scanner's software not from the vehicle
 
It can work with ABS but it's completely wrong with the Td5 engine i've seen that with my own eyes. those 4250 rpm and driver demand things are due to the scanner's software not from the vehicle

Yeah, I realise the values are completely wrong, I know my engine isn't doing 4200 RPM, I just meant that I'm not too annoyed at the tool it served its original purpose for me to sort out my ABS issues.
 
Well, the ECU is completely oil free and the battery is at 13 volts with engine off so I guess I need to get a new pedal or rewire the existing one just not sure which to try first. Rewiring is likely cheaper but will also probably take longer.
 
The driver demand code could be due to the engine loom being shorted to earth,best to check that before spending money or time on other things.
 
Well, the ECU is completely oil free and the battery is at 13 volts with engine off so I guess I need to get a new pedal or rewire the existing one just not sure which to try first. Rewiring is likely cheaper but will also probably take longer.
You'll not be a winner if you still rely on the fault codes and live readings given by that Icarsoft tool but if you insist it's your time and work... i've had one myself and i know how it works on the Td5 engine management, in a nutshell: it's full of sh*t, i gave it to a friend with freelander Td4 cos it works well on that
 
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