D

dru

New Member
Hi guys, haven't been on forum for a few years as got shot of the freelander having given up trying to justify the constant repair bills. But must admit liked driving it when it was useable. Am now contemplating purchasing a 1996 P38 Range Rover Estate 2.5 TD Diesel Manual box with 120k on the clock. Before buying would like some advice on what probs these beasts suffer from and what I should be looking at before a purchase - also an idea of cost of consumables - alternator, injectors, (do they need coding) discs/pads etc. Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance.
 
After I sold my 4.6 I had withdrawal symptoms - I just really missed it. I then took a test drive in a 2.5 and was so dissapointed on its lack of power. I now have a 4.0 (its a tiny bit down on the 4.6 but noticable) - love it too bits.

P.s. everything goes wrong.:D
 
The freelander is cheap to repair in comparison

If you thought they were unreliable then you will be shocked with rangerovers reliability ! Lol
 
Well, I'll start off and maybe the others can join in.

Reliable, it probably won't be. Toyota are probably your friends there. Or maybe a Defender 90 if you like a Landy but don't want to drive too far in it!

The first thing you'll probably notice is the battery draining and you'll need to replace the RF receiver unit @ £150 (unless you have one of the new units under the rear shelf with a green dot on). Then the air-springs will probably need replacing @£200 for all 4 (unless they've been done recently). The central locking motors may well have burnt out from the RF issue and you're probably looking at £30 per lock actuator off e-bay. Sooner or later the EMS will stop taking to the BECM and you'll have to buy a synchmate or similar for £120 or a Nanocom or similar for £400 (you'll need one of these anyway to read diagnostic codes and it makes the air-springs job a doddle.) Sometimes the VCU is seized or about to seize and I believe the transfer box can often jam in high ratio (although frankly I can think of few times when I've ever used the low ratio.)

When it run though, it is lovely!
 
My dad sold his 90 for a freelander because it was too un-reliable and then sold for a golf because of the same reason. The moral is non are reliable but when they do work we love em!!
 
Really? I had a 90 and it was bullet-proof. You wouldn't believe the grief that car took. Parts were cheap too and dead easy to work on. I loved it. Horrible to drive on the road for any distance though!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Really? I had a 90 and it was bullet-proof. You wouldn't believe the grief that car took. Parts were cheap too and dead easy to work on. I loved it. Horrible to drive on the road for any distance though!
Click to expand...

Did you have it long?
 
:)

About 8 years. A mate rolled it in the end and it caught fire.
 
To be fair I had bypassed the fuel shutoff. Can't remember why now but seem to remember I was having some electrical issues and it was the only way to make it run!
 
It's easier to list what doesn't go wrong, er let me think, sorry can't think of a single thing. do a search the list is endless. Oh and injectors are not coded and last a fair time.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Well, I'll start off and maybe the others can join in.

Reliable, it probably won't be. Toyota are probably your friends there. Or maybe a Defender 90 if you like a Landy but don't want to drive too far in it!

The first thing you'll probably notice is the battery draining and you'll need to replace the RF receiver unit @ £150 (unless you have one of the new units under the rear shelf with a green dot on). Then the air-springs will probably need replacing @£200 for all 4 (unless they've been done recently). The central locking motors may well have burnt out from the RF issue and you're probably looking at £30 per lock actuator off e-bay. Sooner or later the EMS will stop taking to the BECM and you'll have to buy a synchmate or similar for £120 or a Nanocom or similar for £400 (you'll need one of these anyway to read diagnostic codes and it makes the air-springs job a doddle.) Sometimes the VCU is seized or about to seize and I believe the transfer box can often jam in high ratio (although frankly I can think of few times when I've ever used the low ratio.)

When it run though, it is lovely!
Click to expand...

had mine a year...and NOT touched any of that, dont scaremonger !

allthough....ive had to do other things !!

definatly love hate things....
 
Grrrrrr said:
Really? I had a 90 and it was bullet-proof. You wouldn't believe the grief that car took. Parts were cheap too and dead easy to work on. I loved it. Horrible to drive on the road for any distance though!
Click to expand...


i often think about 90s or 110s - either just buying one for a hobby/off roading, or chopping in my p38 ,but i do a quite a lot of work miles in it, early 5am 1 hr motorway trips to work etc, the p38 is super comfort, i cant even fit in a defender that comfortably to drive lol, yet still think it and keep my eyes open for the right one, crazy :confused:

olnly ever driven 90s around country lanes or fields and tracks at work at festivals, never on motorway etc
 
Make sue you get a long drive if possible keep checking the temp gauge look for swollen top hoses and leaks on oil cooler pipes and smoothness of auto box. Get a diesel !
 
Question is: how far will you be driving in it and what will you use it for?

For comfort, the RR is king - Classic/P38/L322
For toughness, pick a Defender. I find the latest ones are very comfortable.
For reliability, have a Series motor - you can get ANY part by return mail order for peanuts
 
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