BigJock2005

Active Member
Having done me back suspension and being chuffed at the huge improvement in the ride, I've managed to bugger something else.

I've only had the motor a month, and it's always been a bit noisy switching from Drive to Reverse and back, but I put it down to a bit of transmission lash.

Today I put her in Reverse to come out of a parking space, got the usual light "chunk" as she engaged, but then as I rolled backwards after a a foot or so I got a louder metal "thunk" that I could feel. She does it every time now when I go into Reverse and move backwards. I think I can also feel a slight vibration from the front end when I put the throttle down driving.

It's dark to I can't really check it out, but I'll get underneath tomorrow.

Any suggestions welcome.

Cheers,Jock

Sorry - it's an '03 TDi5
 
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check, check and triple check the front propshaft and inparticular the transfer box end, sounds to me like a UJ is about to give up.....these front props do fail, and its always the transfer box end as they are non greasable from new (dumb idea from Land Rover)

If it's left alone and lets go whilst on the move, it will smash a hole in the tranny and you'll need a new one of those as well.
 
Cheers Urban, I'll check it today. When noises get louder and a noise starts, then you know something has changed, which is usually another step nearer destruction. Will check play on everything.

Jock
 
Can anyone properly advise if you can drive a Disco 2 with no CDL without the front prop shaft? If this thing is proper buggered I need to get it back to the dealer somehow!

I see the thread below on another forum, and they can't make up their mind!

Cheers,
Jock


Driving without front drive shaft? '03 D2 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Hi Jock, to be able to answer this question it's worth spending a moment to understand what a differential, any differential does. It allows drive to go to the least resistance possible.

So, in a centre diff situation, if you take off a prop, the diff will allow drive to go to the least resistent ie the output with no prop on it. So the flange will spin and you will have no drive going to the remaining prop.

This is why there are diff locks - these locks apportion the drive 50/50 to each output, so you can drive (albeit gently) with just one prop in situ.

On '99 to '2001 D2's unless it has been modded, you will need to apply the difflock directly from the transfer box by getting underneath and switching it into lock.
 
Cheers biglad, I wasn't sure if the VC would effectively act as a CDL in the event of the front shaft being removed.

If not, then as you say I'll need to lock the diff manually. (Will have to find out how to do that, unless you can happen to say...)

I checked out the front shaft today. I shat myself - wait until you see my next thread.

Jock
 
Hi.

Just reading the above and would i have that same diff lock (all bar the lever) on my '98 V8 d2?.......and is it tricky to fit the linkage (i have changed engines and transfer chains, diffs etc)

In your pm big lad you said you'd like to know how it's going.........78 miles has led to one flat battery (opened it and there was no fluids in it!!!! ) and of course the rear sunroof which for which i can hear gentle clicking but no movement and an entire weekend of cleaning down and painting the chassis and tow hitch.

I can't drive it at the mo as i am waiting for the lpg to go on and as my old classic has lpg there's no point wasting money on petrol but it is verrrry tempting and still looks great sat on the drive........(nerd!).

Nick.
 
Crawl under and go by the touch on the front upper side of the TB .....If it has CDL U must feel the difflock spigot.....then U have to be handy with a spanner or something to turn it on lock position
 
Cheers sierrafery. Am I right in thinking that wind-up only happens between front and rear? Suppose I get the difflock on and the shaft off, and drive like that for a short while, there'd be no probs with winding anything up.
 

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