I made one for my 1.8 long before Warren was selling the kit.
However it won't cure a heavy clutch, as that's an issue with the clutch release lever binding in the bell housing.
Lots of lubricant on the release lever shaft is the normal way to cure that issue. Once free a couple of drop of engine oil on the shaft each oil change time will keep it free.

The HD hydraulics eliminate the issue where the plastic slave cylinder disintegrating, which is also a thing with these, but normally that's due to the release lever being stiff too.
 
Nodge68 said:
I made one for my 1.8 long before Warren was selling the kit.
However it won't cure a heavy clutch, as that's an issue with the clutch release lever binding in the bell housing.
Lots of lubricant on the release lever shaft is the normal way to cure that issue. Once free a couple of drop of engine oil on the shaft each oil change time will keep it free.

The HD hydraulics eliminate the issue where the plastic slave cylinder disintegrating, which is also a thing with these, but normally that's due to the release lever being stiff too.
Click to expand...
Fantastic , i'll give that a go at the weekend, break out the WD!! cheers dude
 
Nodge68 said:
I made one for my 1.8 long before Warren was selling the kit.
However it won't cure a heavy clutch, as that's an issue with the clutch release lever binding in the bell housing.
Lots of lubricant on the release lever shaft is the normal way to cure that issue. Once free a couple of drop of engine oil on the shaft each oil change time will keep it free.

The HD hydraulics eliminate the issue where the plastic slave cylinder disintegrating, which is also a thing with these, but normally that's due to the release lever being stiff too.
Click to expand...
The clutch biting point is quite low as well, i guess that could be a worn clutch but could it be a problem with the hydraulics or the sticking pivot as well? i've sprayed bulldog BDX on the pivot point but its still not great. clutch doesn't slip at all
 
A low biting point is lost motion, normally in the hydraulics or the pivots or brackets.
A worn clutch gives a high biting point, as there's no more free play available to let the plate bite higher, at which point it'll start to slip.

Did you ever fit the improved kit?
 
Nodge68 said:
A low biting point is lost motion, normally in the hydraulics or the pivots or brackets.
A worn clutch gives a high biting point, as there's no more free play available to let the plate bite higher, at which point it'll start to slip.

Did you ever fit the improved kit?
Click to expand...
that sounds more positive then, i've got to literally press the pedal to the floor to disengage and then it bites about a couple of inches from the floor, i really need to eyeball the slave cylinder while my son depresses the pedal. i might then be able to get away with a replacement master and slave cylinder, last time i looked the bracket looked fine, but i'll take a better look. i didn't buy the replacement kit but have been looking at others, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30109720...lander&hash=item461acaadf0:g:vUUAAOSwE-pdsGla
 
had a look at the clutch hydraulics today on my lunch break with my son pushing the pedal, he said it was really heavy lol. there are no leaks either end but there is a definite flex in the bracket when the pedal is depressed, think it might be worth fitting a new kit and bracket and checking/lubing the pivot again
 
new system with new bracket ordered, hopefully it'll improve the clutch feel, bite and also help it go into gear easier.
 
drfoster said:
new system with new bracket ordered, hopefully it'll improve the clutch feel, bite and also help it go into gear easier.
Click to expand...
It sounds like there's lots of free play, so it should help massively.

Make sure you purge out any air in the new clutch hydraulics before installing it.
Do this by holding the master cylinder up in the air, and get a helper to push the slave piston right in, then slowly release. Do this a few times, which will make sure any trapped air goes to the air space below the cap. Oh and don't remove the plastic strap thing on the slave. Fit it as supplied, the straps will snap the first time the pedal is pressed.
 
Nodge68 said:
It sounds like there's lots of free play, so it should help massively.

Make sure you purge out any air in the new clutch hydraulics before installing it.
Do this by holding the master cylinder up in the air, and get a helper to push the slave piston right in, then slowly release. Do this a few times, which will make sure any trapped air goes to the air space below the cap. Oh and don't remove the plastic strap thing on the slave. Fit it as supplied, the straps will snap the first time the pedal is pressed.
Click to expand...
Fingers crossed, hopefully the new bracket will be less bendy. good call on the purging, i'll give that a crack when it comes and i'm ready to fit it. cheers
 
JUKE179r said:
They have some nice products for Freelanders on that site. Not much else for older Discos or Defender owners. :oops:
Click to expand...
It was set up as a company to supply Freelander mods.

Which is unusual for a Land Rover company - usually they supply lots of parts for other models and a couple of token offerings for Freelander.
 
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