TD4OwnerYorkshire

TD4OwnerYorkshire

Member
Hi all

I have a TD4 05 - I have had the clutch and bearing replaced very recently. However, I am having issues changing gear - mainly the low ones - once the car has been running a while they change fine, it's just on short journeys.

A bit of reading seems to indicate this is a hydraulic issue with a cylinder - I was wondering if I can top this up easy enough at home and if so how.

I have found a couple of videos but they are as clear as mud!

Any ideas or pointers would be great. Many Thanks :)
 
it's been a few years since I bled the clutch on our TD4 (it's a Freelander 1) but yes you can and it wasn't that hard.
You need to locate the reservoir in the engine bay near to the clutch pedal. Peel the top off and fill it with brake fluid.
Next locate the bleed valve on top of the transmission. Follow the hydraulic pipe from the clutch pedal to the top of the bell housing and you will find it.
Press the clutch pedal all the way down and hold it down with a block of wood wedged into the seat.
Now open the bleed valve and let some fluid out (it will be under pressure from the pedal being down) and then close it again.
Allow the pedal to come back up and top up the fluid.
Repeat a few times until the clutch works properly.
 
How recently was it changed?
If it isn’t right go back to wherever did the work
 
That is better advice.
Once you start messing with it the mechanic that did the clutch is off the hook. Probably better to take it back and ask them to rectify.
The master cylinder is easy to change but the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing and if they have damaged it then they pretty much have to do the entire job again.
 
Contact whom ever did the clutch and get them to sort it out asap, the longer you leave it the less chance you will have of them sorting it out, hopefully you let them supply the clutch at the time of fitting, if not and you supplied the clutch then you will have a fight on your hands as they will most likely say its the parts.
 
It's not unusual for the master cylinder to fail shortly after or during a clutch change. Don't be surprised if you have to put your hand in your pocket again. :(
And if it needs replaced make 100% certain sure they don't use a cheap after market master cylinder, they are total crap.
 
Here is a pic of a slave cylinder I found in an old post with the bleed screw.
tazu-jpg.93068

The longer pipe is a connector that goes to the pipe from the master cylinder. The shorter one pokes out of the bell housing so that you can bleed it.
 
pscan.eu said:
Here is a pic of a slave cylinder I found in an old post with the bleed screw.
tazu-jpg.93068

The longer pipe is a connector that goes to the pipe from the master cylinder. The shorter one pokes out of the bell housing so that you can bleed it.
Click to expand...

be careful of those slave cylinders quite a lot of the R40 guys had nothing but trouble with them, the seal fails for some reason ?
 
pscan.eu said:
Sorry, what's an R40?
Click to expand...

R40 is the Rover 75 MGZT etc that use the same engines as the FL1 albeit some different parts, but the same clutch,( pscan.eu ) is that not the same as the diagnostic for these cars and the Rover 75 ?
 
I probably should have known that.

So are the 75/ZT guys having trouble with the Tazu metal slave cylinder? or the master cylinder? Only the slave cylinder is applicable to the FL1. Our TD4 FL1 has had a Tazu slave cylinder for something like three years and it's been fine.

On the diagnostics (75/ZT vs Freelander 1):-
Engines: Same
Jatco auto: Same
ABS: different
SRS: different
Immobiliser: Yr 2000-2003 I think the same, 2003 on different.
Body controller: different
Instruments: I don't know yet
 
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