V

vizlauk

Active Member
Hi, I was driving as normal today, at a set of traffic lights, went to press clutch & it went ! no pedel, I have checked the fluid, plenty in & no leaks, tried to bled the slave cylinder, it was bleeding, still no pedel, so I have removed the slave cylinder to see if the pushrod from the slave cylinder had bust through the fork, this had not happen either .
What I have found is that the clutch fork is stuck as far back as it can go ! It will not release , any ideas before I look into removing the gearbox. Its a 300 tdi .
 
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Its not the slave push rod that punches thru-its the pivot ball in the bell housing(further down the fork inside)-unfortunately its new fork time-make sure you fit one that has the strap or other welded on it to toughen it up-renew all clutch bits while you are at it-good luck
 
the pivot point in the middle of the fork bursts through the clutch fork, gearbox out & new fork, get a heavy duty one, might be worth doing clutch plates & release bearing while you're at it
 
GRATCH said:
the pivot point in the middle of the fork bursts through the clutch fork, gearbox out & new fork, get a heavy duty one, might be worth doing clutch plates & release bearing while you're at it
Click to expand...
any pics, to show exactly whats happend ?
 
biolandy said:
Its not the slave push rod that punches thru-its the pivot ball in the bell housing(further down the fork inside)-unfortunately its new fork time-make sure you fit one that has the strap or other welded on it to toughen it up-renew all clutch bits while you are at it-good luck
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply, I know whats happend now ! any tips on removing the gearbox !
 
vizlauk said:
thanks for the reply, I know whats happend now ! any tips on removing the gearbox !
Click to expand...
yes top tip , get heavywieght help its a heavy gearbox.
have heard you can put stap round box ,up through gearstick hole to an engine crane. But I did mine with trolly jack and care, with strap to front bumper to pull it into place.
 
Mine has aircon did not want to degas and regas-plus all the manifolds look like hell to get off,then there is all the bleeding aggro with cooling system afterwards-the box out method is just nuts and bolts-just my two penneth
 
Well I must admit that I would rather pull the gearbox out than the engine, I am going to tackle it tomorrow, just hope that the new clutch fork does not take to long to be delivered.
He who dares wins, other option is to pay the local garage £150 to do the job.
 
vizlauk said:
Hi, I have just started doing the clutch fork, inside work done, props are off, I am wondering if the is enough free play on the handbrake cable in order to leave the handbrake on, when moving the gearbox back the 7" ?
Click to expand...
probably not and for sake of 10 min why strugle
 
when mine went i was nervous in doing this job and after much thought i removed rad then pulled engine forward on hoist.this give me plent of room leaving most things attached and went under and changed clutch also i werent on me back all day good luck
 
When I did mine, I removed the exhaust and both props, then brought the gearbox/trans box assembly back 8 inches on a trolley jack and rested it on the crossmember while I replaced the fork, bearing and all the little clips and bits.

Was perfect and light action afterwards.
 
All sorted, no problems at all, a very easy job to do, took about 5 hours in total, method used was sliding the gearbox back, alot easier than I expected.
BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN !
 
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