brianconwy

Well-Known Member
Had a fruitless day yesterday trying to fit the r380 gearbox into our 2003 td5 manual. I am wondering if we had the clutch plate aligned precise enough. It was Ok as we started to tighten the cover plate but the fit tightened as we torqued it up. It did go in but was tight to try and slide in and out. The alignment tool we have is fairly loose when I try it in the splines of the old plate. Should we persevere or start all over and re-align the plate?
Thanks
 
You may have done what I did when trying to fit my gearbox (outside, in the cold, rain failing daylight:mad:) and burred the plate splines slightly with the input shaft.
Either way it's going to have to come out again.
The damage to the plate splines was minimal, I couldn't see it with a naked eye tbh but it was enough to stop the shaft going in.
I dressed mine with a file.
 
I will take it out. But the weather is awful and unpredictable at the moment. I seem to have picked a bad time weather wise. Thanks.
 
for clarity I mean take the gearbox out again and then try readjusting the clutch plate by loosen the bolts around the clutch cover.
 
for clarity I mean take the gearbox out again and then try readjusting the clutch plate by loosen the bolts around the clutch cover.
So I can try adjusting the clutch plate with the cover still on but loosened, rather than take the cover off?
 
spigot bushes can be tight and box will have to be perfectly aligned to go through plate splines and spigot
Does the front of the engine have to be tilted forward? Is a trolley jack the best method and where on the engine to support - the sump with a block of wood? A bit scared of damaging the sump. Thanks again.
 
sump with a block of wood ,theres little weight it just makes it solid ,so its fixed as box is adjusted,it will be difficult to align in engine can move, when im refitting boxes i have someone on the crane making fine adjustments all the time till i find the sweet spot
 
Does the front of the engine have to be tilted forward? Is a trolley jack the best method and where on the engine to support - the sump with a block of wood? A bit scared of damaging the sump. Thanks again.
The flywheel housing and bell housing need to come together with an equal gap between the two, keep checking this gap continually as the box goes forward making adjustments to engine angle and gearbox height as you go. Biggest help is making sure the box is slung level.
Tratters are done from above through the door using an engine crane, I don't know the best way to hold up a disco one.
M10 studding can help although I've no experience of that.
 
sump with a block of wood ,theres little weight it just makes it solid ,so its fixed as box is adjusted,it will be difficult to align in engine can move, when im refitting boxes i have someone on the crane making fine adjustments all the time till i find the sweet spot
Thanks. How do you adjust the angle of the gearbox? At the moment I have a chain fitted on the side of the gearbox where the p-clip for the breather was and another fitted onto one of the tranfer box plate bolts. Stopped by rain again now.
 
you have to lay under and guide/feel it, the chance you can line it enough by eye and it will slide in is in realms of luck and flukes with a td5
 
Did you check new clutch plate slid on splines easily with box on the floor ? Always wise to do so
No. I meant to. I will when I get some dry weather and check the clutch fitment. Nothing but rain here and forecast is more rain. I am also going to change the bolt its hanging from to one of the bolts connecting the two boxes as James does. Thanks.
 
I did see flywheel side written and faced it toward the engine, but I will check again in case I messed up. Totally possible. :) Thanks.
the center splined boss is offset the larger side of the splines needs to be flywheel side, if its the other way round the splined boss would fit too far over input shaft splines and jam before box was fully up
 

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