Mark L

Mark L

Well-Known Member
Next year, I'm looking at getting the chassis swapped over for a galvanized one. :clap2:
Obviously this is going to present opportunities to do jobs on various things which would normally be a pain in the backside, so looking to combine it with refurbishing and swapping the axles off my last one, replacing the rear A frame joint, fitting extended gearbox & axle box breathers, cam belt change etc etc.
Any other non-obvious suggestions while I'm there?

What I'd like to get an opinion of is whether you'd take the opportunity of fitting a body lift kit at the same time? If so, how much of a lift?
If I did choose to lift it, would anything need altering to bring anything back into line?
I know the rear seat belt mounts, radiator and gear levers need extending, but is there anything else which needs modifying?

The main reason I'm considering it is to accommodate bigger tyres (285/75/16) with zero rubbing issues on full articulation. It currently has a 3" spring lift and chopped/extended arches.


Feedback and usual LZ banter most welcome. :p
 
Brake lines and tank filler pipe would be straight forward.
Would the steering shaft have to be a custom made jobbie?
 
Can you buy a disco 1 galv chassis? I know Richards chassis do one for the disco 2, but are they the same?
 
Co-pang-yang had an excellent chassis he was going to get galved and sell, don't know if he still got it might be worth a pm.
 
One came up on eBay a while back. The guy wanted something like £900 for it though.
Fook that.
 
A 2" lift is simple and in my experience the only issues that you have to do are

Brake lines, radiator pins, seat belt mounts and watch the fuel pipes from the filter housing, unless you remount the housing lower to maintain original pipe length. Steering column should shave enough in it for two inch.

Three inch lift, all above and a few more as it takes out any play in various fittings and then you have to put it back in.

Galv chassis are great, I had a look at one yesterday on a defender restoration. My advice is to find a descent chassis, either stripped or actually pick a descent disco with min accident damage ensuring that the chassis is ok. That way you can strip and sell bits to get your new back.

Spend a few weeks stripping and ensuring the chassis is 100% and then galv it. A nice gold pasivated chassis would look cool but not sure how long it would last against galv
 
Just the sorta post I was after. :D

I've hopefully sourced a very solid & straight chassis, so assuming all goes well, will strip that one down to perfection and get it picked up & have the magic worked on it etc.

Who normally cleans the threads back out? DIY job or do the galvanizing people normally see to that?
Also, would you suggest painting it in addition to the galvanizing or just leave as is?

Much appreciated, Green Hornet. :tea:
 
Etch primer and paint with any black metal paint otherwise its a homing beacon for scumbags!
 
To be fair, it ain't the most inconspicuous of Discos so not sure that'd make much difference, really. :eek:

Good point though.
 
Dont think disco chassis have any threads in them anyway, so maybe just a couple holes to drill out as you come to fit parts.

Regards work alonf the way, lay into it and rebuild/refurb/replace everything that you take off the old chassis and fit to the new because it will NEVER be that easy to do it again, nor will you ever be able to do such a thorough job.

As for the body, get that well looked at and repaired/undersealed whilst it is dangling in the air with nothing under it. again, it will NEVER be that easy again.

Allow a few months for this job and finish with a fully restored/as new Disco 1.

Noice.
 
^^^^^^ basically what he said ^^^^^^^^

To my knowledge also, there are no threads on the chassis. A few captive nuts for the tank at the rear and that's it I think.

All the holes for bolts to go through will need reaming out but a reaming tool is cheap and just use a slow drill.

As for painting, no need on a galv chassis. As Noisy says, if you are going to go to this extreme then clean, renew, powder coat, zinc pasivate any items that go back on. It will be longer to do but the benefit is far outweighed by any time/cash restrictions up front.

Your body needs to be spot on underneath too. No sense in having the thing dangling in mid air and not do anything to it only to have to struggle six months down the road with welding etc.

What's your old chassis like? I could do with a project lol.....
 
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