Shippers
Well-Known Member
Done it before?...
Shippers
Well-Known Member
Would think generic are softer as not used that often compared to constant use which appear to be sharper so maybe harder...
Doesnt bounce if youve got the magnetic holder, what I have found that is that you can indent the
chassis cause its a tad thin.
Shippers
Well-Known Member
Doesnt bounce if youve got the magnetic holder, what I have found that is that you can indent the
chassis cause its a tad thin.
Or it punches straight through the rust...
payydg
Well-Known Member
@kevstar excellent I’ll be along with the loot… I mean genuine vehicles soon.
@lynall I can imagine. To be honest you could just stamp with any punch roughly the same size and I doubt anyone would ever notice.
But seriously though how can you get hold of these or are they just now relegated to history?
@lynall I can imagine. To be honest you could just stamp with any punch roughly the same size and I doubt anyone would ever notice.
But seriously though how can you get hold of these or are they just now relegated to history?
All the years I spent in motor trade not once did we check a landy stamped number.
No one cares as chassis rot for fun & so many are modified these days so just check the
metal plate or windscreen no.
Pm me with the job lot
I have two kit cars where the numbers on the chassis were stamped by the plods.
Each time they said, "This'll get a Q reg"
Each time they were wrong!
Each time they said, "This'll get a Q reg"
Each time they were wrong!
No need all my Land Rover original chassis even the 59
I have stamps as used to stamp aluminium HGV trailers with their new ministry number
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I stamped my new chassis with the original number using teaps bought off ebay roughly the right size.
From my experience with classic bikes and illegible/missing and strange numbers nobody either checks or understands classic vehicle numbering systems or the "correct" fonts on a classic vehicle even if they could locate it in the first place apart from marque nerds and the owners clubs.
I have had bikes MOTed with the MOT tester simply applying a sticker to the chassis from the V5 number to satisfy the tick box on the MOT saying "chassis number present and correct" and others with it completely invisible under layers of paint. It took me days to find the chassis number on my BSA Spitfire when I bought it,even though I knew where it was, then promptly painted over it again to protect the steel!
Vehicles prior to the VIN plates being used as nowadays I wouldn't worry about it, stamp the number into the chassis for security and comfort but nobody is going to look and if they do they won't understand it. The VIN number is repeated on the VIN plate attached to the bodywork anyway, mine is on the rad mount with the chassis number stamped into it.
From my experience with classic bikes and illegible/missing and strange numbers nobody either checks or understands classic vehicle numbering systems or the "correct" fonts on a classic vehicle even if they could locate it in the first place apart from marque nerds and the owners clubs.
I have had bikes MOTed with the MOT tester simply applying a sticker to the chassis from the V5 number to satisfy the tick box on the MOT saying "chassis number present and correct" and others with it completely invisible under layers of paint. It took me days to find the chassis number on my BSA Spitfire when I bought it,even though I knew where it was, then promptly painted over it again to protect the steel!
Vehicles prior to the VIN plates being used as nowadays I wouldn't worry about it, stamp the number into the chassis for security and comfort but nobody is going to look and if they do they won't understand it. The VIN number is repeated on the VIN plate attached to the bodywork anyway, mine is on the rad mount with the chassis number stamped into it.
