The issues with my new Range rover continues......
1995 p38 4.0 Std Model
Other day on motorway 70ish, tacho and speedo dropped to 0, then recovered, when I switched the engine off, got "Gearbox fault" displayed.
Did a search on here and the usual suspects are plug under expansion tank and/or voltage drop.
Over the weekend I have cleaned the plug under the expansion tank and all earth and power connections, and made a new earth from batt terminal to body and an onto engine block.
However checking my charging circuit, i have
Battery car not started = 12.6v
Battery car idling = 13.7v
Battery car idling with lights on full beam heater on full, and stereo on 12.2v
(Alternator test done from Alternator positive terminal to alternator body)
Alternator with engine idling = 12.6v
Alternator engine idling with lights on full beam heater on full, and stereo on 12.2v
No more issues with the "gearbox Fault"
It has a new battery, and I'm 95% convinced its the alternator, either coils broke down, or VR (I understand the VR is internal to the Rangey alternatirs, is that correct?)
Am I correct?
Any more thoughts / tests to carry out?
The serial number plate has dis-integrated, so doing more of a search I find that I probably need the 100A rated alternator as the 120A is for the Air Con version, is it worth fitting the 120A especially with the electronics being a bit "susceptible" on the P38?
Cheers....
1995 p38 4.0 Std Model
Other day on motorway 70ish, tacho and speedo dropped to 0, then recovered, when I switched the engine off, got "Gearbox fault" displayed.
Did a search on here and the usual suspects are plug under expansion tank and/or voltage drop.
Over the weekend I have cleaned the plug under the expansion tank and all earth and power connections, and made a new earth from batt terminal to body and an onto engine block.
However checking my charging circuit, i have
Battery car not started = 12.6v
Battery car idling = 13.7v
Battery car idling with lights on full beam heater on full, and stereo on 12.2v
(Alternator test done from Alternator positive terminal to alternator body)
Alternator with engine idling = 12.6v
Alternator engine idling with lights on full beam heater on full, and stereo on 12.2v
No more issues with the "gearbox Fault"
It has a new battery, and I'm 95% convinced its the alternator, either coils broke down, or VR (I understand the VR is internal to the Rangey alternatirs, is that correct?)
Am I correct?
Any more thoughts / tests to carry out?
The serial number plate has dis-integrated, so doing more of a search I find that I probably need the 100A rated alternator as the 120A is for the Air Con version, is it worth fitting the 120A especially with the electronics being a bit "susceptible" on the P38?
Cheers....
