Wesley Pegden

Well-Known Member

• Nov 12, 2005

• #1

Tomorrow I start the long and arduous task of replacing the gearbox in my series 2. I reckon its a grinder job regarding nuts / bolts on the floor and seatbox as I'm planning on replacing them with freebie stainless ones. Although I'm fairly well prepaired for the job (as far as attention span is concerned), has anyone got any tips so far as personal experience goes.

Regards WP

 

S

slob

Well-Known Member

• Nov 12, 2005

• #2

if you have a spare 1/2 inch socket stick it on the x member to hold the engine up. it don't help taking the box out but when it comes to putting it back in it holds the engine at just the right height. saves all that jumping up and down pulling hair oot. the box should just slide in nice n straight

 

GRUNT

Well-Known Member

• Nov 13, 2005

• #3

Just got in from pub I'm a bit ****ed but if you're using stainless nuts and bolts use either locknuts or locktight, stainless is "slippery". You're better off with high tensile bolts and a dab of water resistant grease.

 

Wesley Pegden

Well-Known Member

• Nov 13, 2005

• #4

Cheers Slob and Grunt. Ta very much for the advice. Done OK today, floor, seatbox n seats are out. However it didnt help forgetting a fuel line clip that was attached to the seat box (oops, oh b****x!)

Regards WP

 

S

slob

Well-Known Member

• Nov 13, 2005

• #5

just to give you an idea on how long it should take i once did a series in 4hours
but that was a one off normally its about 6 hours

 

Wesley Pegden

Well-Known Member

• Nov 13, 2005

• #6

Cheers Slob, doing it as and when I've got the time mate. Got an extremely ill parent at the moment (very trying). Today was a good day though. Gratefull of you advice and experience.

Regards WP

 

S

slob

Well-Known Member

• Nov 13, 2005

• #7

as and when you got the time .. i know that well..i've been stickin mine together fur aboot 2 1/2 years now. onne day it will be seen driving down the road by which time we'll be using plasma propulsion

 

T

TheSmiths88

New Member

• Nov 22, 2005

• #8

Got this bit of advice (and a suitable bar) off a mate - worked amazingly well ...

Cut a length of steel bar (scaffold pole etc) to the width of the landy and cut a perpendicular slot in each end with an angle grinder about 1/4 of the way through the bar, such that you can wedge it across the inside of the roof (above the seats) resting on the galvanized support that is above the middle of the door tops. The slot you've cut in the ends of the scaffold pole sits over the lips created by the support section above the door. (did I explain that OK?)

You then lift the 'box out using a Tirfor or block&tackle attached to the scaffold pole and slide the whole lot along the pole and out of one side of the landy (if you've taken the sills & floor pan off it's a lot easier!) Saves any jacking or engine crane.

Handily of course, I have since chopped up my pole to make a towing attachment ... but now have gearbox problems ... d'oh!

 

Wesley Pegden

Well-Known Member

• Nov 22, 2005

• #9

Cheers TheSmiths88, unfortunately its got a full canvass and I'm going in with a hydraulic hoist mate. thanks for the info its always well recieved.

Regards WP.