joe1972

joe1972

Well-Known Member
My Bobtail (the one in the avatar) has finally gone pop!

Engine seriously smokey, misfiring like a bitch, and clattering like its dropped a valve or summat....

So, I got to bite the bullet, but to be honest I can't be arsed to do the work myself. Anyone who knows my previous threads will know Ive about had enough of messing about trying to get a basically knackered engine running smooth.

Are there any peeps on here (or elsewhere), who would take the old knackered engine out and put a working one in?? I've got a grand to spend.

I'm not expecting a mint recon engine, just one that runs smoothly, without issues (Atleast until I thrash the nuts out of it:eek:). It's a '90 reg 3.9EFi with autobox. The box seems fine and changes gear as it should.
Am I being realistic??

Anyone out there, in or around Manchester, or know anyone who would do the work for a lazy ****wit like me with a heavy right foot:eek::doh:
 
An update. With mates help I picked up a replacement lump.
Now just the small procedure of swapping them!!:behindsofa:
 
you'll have it done for parkwood then joe...

easy, i did 30 hours of welding for mot failure in 4 days..

cant take that long just to swop an injun can it? done a beetle one in 20 mins b4 now..

and used to swop old A series morris minor injuns in a day...

a man of your skill and ability should have it done in a afternoon..

either that or just trade it in for a proper one and get a disco tdi....
 
Ah yes, its the mesing about wit the fiddly things that cause delay. Last engine change I did was a Twincam in a Fiat X1-9, so this is on a different scale.
Helpin Rob tommorrow with his new purchase, a Disco 300TDi...just a service and few others bits checking over, new bump stops n a diff guard etc...I don't think he beleived me when I said how easy the pads are to change in landies with caliper piston spreaders.
 
It'll be a pizz o' pizz to swap the engine over Joe.

Not a big deal at all, theres so much room to work youve got no excuse - get it done!
 
Mr Noisy said:
It'll be a pizz o' pizz to swap the engine over Joe.

Not a big deal at all, theres so much room to work youve got no excuse - get it done!
Click to expand...



LOL, cheers for your support!:):p

I was servicing m mates Disco 300Tdi today, so havnt got a chance to start the swap yet.

Incidentally, done engine changes before, but not a landy V8.
Is it easier just the part the autobox from the engine and lift the engine out?...just thinkin it might be easier to leave auto n transfer box where it is??:confused:
I will of course remove the new rad and grill before the engine goes through it!:rolleyes:
 
be carefull to locate the autobox pump drive before you tighten up the bell housing bolts when you put it back on joe or you will crack the pump and write off your autobox
 
jamesmartin said:
torque convertor should allways be fitted to box before fitting box to engine
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.
This forum is very useful:)

So, how much of a bitch is it to relocate the engine n box back together.....Can remember spending ages lining up a Lancia Delta engine n box after I fitted a AP racing clutch with an alignment tool. (that bugger was a sod!)
 
easy to fit as no clutch to line up .torque convertor bolts are a bit of a pain with sump in the way but easier than some later autos ,after fitting t/c to box measure depth of threaded lug on convertor to bellhousing face ,and measure rear face of drive plate to rear engine face, t/c depth needs to be 1-3mm shorter than drive plate measurement so that you know t/c is fitted correctly in pump, and when fastened to engine t/c will spin freely till pulled upto drive plate by t/c bolts
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
easy to fit as no clutch to line up .torque convertor bolts are a bit of a pain with sump in the way but easier than some later autos ,after fitting t/c to box measure depth of thread luf on convertor to bellhousing face ,and measure rear face of drive plate to rear engine face t/c depth needs to be 1-3mm shorter than drivplate measurement so that you know t/c is fitted correctly in pump and when fastened to engine t/c will spin freely till pulled upto driveplate by t/c bolts
Click to expand...

again in english please :)
 
...I'm fully expected there to be lots of mud n crap in there. Have never ever fitted a wading plug
 
The best cheat is remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing round plate with 3 bolts undo all the torque convertor bolts 4 of them push the torque convertor back into the gear box 1/4" inch then bent a L shape piece of metal and bolt it though the hole in the bell housing toque convertor will not move then no matter how hard you try to push and pull the engine about simple best tool I have in the tool box!
Also if you make it a good fit you can use it when installing a toque convertor to the correct depth no measuring
 
vougese39 said:
The best cheat is remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing round plate with 3 bolts undo all the torque convertor bolts 4 of them push the torque convertor back into the gear box 1/4" inch then bent a L shape piece of metal and bolt it though the hole in the bell housing toque convertor will not move then no matter how hard you try to push and pull the engine about simple best tool I have in the tool box!
Also if you make it a good fit you can use it when installing a toque convertor to the correct depth no measuring
Click to expand...


Got any photos or links? would help immensely :)
 
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