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steveowen100

Member
Morning all,

I’m looking to buy a discovery V8, reliving the rangey classic I had 20 odd years ago, got rid off for 800 quid and could now no longer afford to buy, that’s life eh!!

I’ve seen a discovery 2 4.0 V8 on gas, it’s not local so the seller has sent me a video. On startup the engine sounded a bit tappety, as the seller walks around the car exhaust sounds a bit blowey (no technical terms here) and when he open the bonnet and revs it sounds a bit whiney, but maybe I’m being to critical.

Now, I’m not technically minded as you can tell, and a video is no substitute for a proper inspection. The seller says there are no faults and says the noise is probably a blower motor that runs on startup into the egr system (means nothing to me). He has run it for the last 9 years with no issues, so he says, but I’m aware of the issues the V8 has on gas, my 3.5 rangey went through a number of head gaskets.

Also, seller says engine warning light comes on when on gas, but always has and has never been an issue ?

My head is telling me to walk away, my heart is keeping me interested, I just know I’m not hearing the V8 rumble I fell in love with 20years ago on my rangey classic.

Any guidance from you guys would be great.

many thanks
 
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How many miles has it done, what year is it, has it had any work done on the engine / any history with it???

The tappety noise could be a sticky Hydraulic cam follower tappet, or a worn camshaft, which can be a common occurance on a higher mileage V8 (i did mine at 75k). Or even possibly a loose-ish manifold bolt thats making a ticking noise. The blowy noise could just be the coolant viscous fan (if its stated from cold it normally does this) this is pretty normal for viscous couplings irrespective of the vehicle. Normally as soon as the oil has started circulating through the viscous, it should start slipping while cold and go quiet. this normally happens within a minute of starting. if it blow much longer, the viscous may be defective.

With it being on gas I'd make sure its a proper installation and not a cobbled together effort as some I've seen are horrendous efforts with really bad wiring / plumbing. The multipoint systems are the best these days and offer better MPG and longevity. Ask if theres any service records for the gas system / how old it is and what type.

Some love gas, some hate it. I personally have had 3 V8's run on it, a Classic, a Disco & a P38 and never had a problem as long as its a good install & looked after.

I've found that the V8 is a lovely simple engine but it needs care and attention to prolong its life, if it has been neglected I'd walk away.
 
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Sounds to me like the seller has less of a clue than you;)

V8s dont have EGR and they certainly are not powered by a blower motor.
Engine light did not come on on any of our LPG vehicle's, 1 was a V8, but there are so many systems available I cant confirm or deny that claim. LPG on the V8 is ok so don't worry, as long as everything else is ok of course, running/driving you will notice very little diff:).

Sounds like you are in doubt and if its a long way. Suggest you just spend a bit more time and look more:). Maybe look at the P38 too same ish age same engine, Less chance of rust:eek::D

Good luck.

J
 
marjon said:
Sounds to me like the seller has less of a clue than you;)

V8s dont have EGR and they certainly are not powered by a blower motor.
Engine light did not come on on any of our LPG vehicle's, 1 was a V8, but there are so many systems available I cant confirm or deny that claim. LPG on the V8 is ok so don't worry, as long as everything else is ok of course, running/driving you will notice very little diff:).

Sounds like you are in doubt and if its a long way. Suggest you just spend a bit more time and look more:). Maybe look at the P38 too same ish age same engine, Less chance of rust:eek::D

Good luck.

J
Click to expand...
Ask to see the LPG installation certificate, if you want to insure it properly with fewer problems. I didn't as both I, and the seller, assumed it must have been registered as it was such a professional install, 4 tanks for LPG under plus smaller petrol tank.
It turned out not to have been and is thus now just another project waiting for me to attend to. The tanks are rusty on the outside, one mounting strap on one needs attention and the numbers on the tanks are on the top under the floor so the inspector/certification bloke cannot read them.
Also round ours all the LPG stations have stopped selling it bar one.
Glad I only paid a little money for it. Disco 1 manual.
 
Joined the forum in 2007 and this is your third post :(

I would have been happy to have kept my 3.5 RR if it was in the same condition as my 23 year old disco, but after 10 years and a £1000.00 cam change plus the rot it had to go.

Anyway ticking is a no-no… it could be as simple as a ticking manifold or fuel injector tapping or the dreaded cam, even worse a slipped liner but that I believe is a knock, usually with LPG fed engines.
The is a lot of thing spinning around under the bonnet to cause a blowing noise, viscous coupled fan, alternator power steering pump and AC is switch on, if the single electric AC fan in front of the radiator is running all the time, then thats its an indication that the engine has overheated at some time, and this fan has cut-in, a diagnostic tool is required to switch it off.
Glad you aware of the LPG perceived issues for those that can’t afford Petrol .
 
Thanks all, I’m blown away by the quick responses, what a bunch of stars !!!!

Discool, you are right , 3 posts in 14 years is pretty poor, but at leat I’m consistently poor :) tbh since I got rid of the rangey 20 years, I’ve been looking for the ‘right’ next Landy, passed on some really nice P38’s and some lovely defenders and now prices have gone stupid, I’m hoping to find a nice Disco before the prices follow suit :)

Jase, the Disco has done 122.000 it’s a 2003 D2 ES air suspension still in place and still on ACE. The Gas when I queried it was on the vehicle when he bought it 9 years ago, so I don’t think he has a certificate and it’s not been registered on the V5.

Marjon, you are right mate he has less idea than me and I thought his response sounded like BS :) I’d love a decent P38 but again, finding a decent one is thin on the ground.

Stanley, the tank is mounted vertically in the boot donut style in place of the near side 3rd row seat, if I buy I want to get this shifted to clear the boot space :)

The MOT history looks like it is a clean unmolested vehicle, no chassis rot/corrosion picked up and the guy says his dad owns a garage and has looked after it for the last 9 years, I’m always dubious though I’ve they’ve serviced it and possibly MOTD themselves what might have been ‘overlooked’.

The video was sent to me on WhatsApp so I’m going to use my non technical brain and see if I can upload, as I’d appreciate your opinions, you lot are the experts after all :) :) seriously I appreciate anything you pick up from looking at it.
 
If as you've said, 'I'm not technically minded' I'd agree with your head & walk away. As Marjon says its a long way and you're already in a bit of doubt about it. There are better ones out there, you just have to look really hard & consider your budget for buying & maintenance as even the youngest of these are about 18 years old and WILL need a slush fund to keep running.

To me seller, is being a little economical with the truth or at least a bit wooley with it, if his dad has a garage surely he'll know the ins & outs of it & what the tapping is & why its idling so quickly?
 
Hi Jase, you might be right mate, any thoughts on that engine though which I can keep in mind for future buys.
I take it it’s not running as it should.
 
There are a few things that govern the running speed.... Throttle position sensors, temperature sensors, idle controls etc Could be the reason its running fast. The tapping as Discool said could be minor like the manifold bolt being loose / injector problem, which are quite minor to Camshaft and tappet wear which requires a top end rebuild. The most expensive could be a slipped liner on one of the cylinders which if the engine block is cracked is new engine time & open wallet surgery.
 
Well is starting ok, with the initial RPM around 1200, but the within 5-10 seconds RPM it should dropped to idle around 750 but it stayed high while we had the photo tour, blipping the throttle isn’t needed and didn’t do much when it was.
The rest of of the vehicle was or appears bog-standard so not owned by an enthusiastic owner as the wheel are sun bleached so could do with a paint which an enthusiasts would do, also why are there rust stains at each end or the running boards…steps, something corroded you can only see when the doors are open maybe.
So looks like the head lining has started coming loose in in a couple of places.

And the there’s the unbelievable Noise :D I can’t pickup any individual sound.

84F2B9E1-FB0A-48DD-865E-CBE68F63656C.jpeg
 
I appreciate the feedback guys, I liked the fact that it was bog standard, still on air suspension, ACE etc, but yeah the wheel arches are faded, running boards are corroded, such easy jobs to put right ??

he’s said the sun roofs have been sealed and the headlining has begun to drop from leaks pre seal, which is not out of the norm I know. But I’d say with the lack of transparency with the engine it looks like the search will have to continue.

what would the tops be you lads would pay for this ?
 
steveowen100 said:
I appreciate the feedback guys, I liked the fact that it was bog standard, still on air suspension, ACE etc, but yeah the wheel arches are faded, running boards are corroded, such easy jobs to put right ??

he’s said the sun roofs have been sealed and the headlining has begun to drop from leaks pre seal, which is not out of the norm I know. But I’d say with the lack of transparency with the engine it looks like the search will have to continue.

what would the tops be you lads would pay for this ?
Click to expand...

Personally thats a good decision:).

J
 
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