As I was fiddling around trying to find a problem with my speedo cable
I decided to adjust my handbrake while I was there.

I found a square thingy on the back of the handbrake drum that the
book mentioned and turned it a few times (no clue in the book which
way to turn it) and it got tighter then slacker as I turned it, I
think I set it as the handbrake lever doesn't need to come quite as
far to hold the brake on but still too far, if I turned the adjuster
another notch then the shoes hold on the drum after useing then
releasing the handbrake.

Also the book said there was another adjuster for the other shoe.. umm
where??

am I doing this all wrong?

Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.

1984 110, LT77.


Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
--
___________________________________________________________
"To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
www.mrnice.me.uk - www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
___________________________________________________________

In news:tib5e0h645msnp4d86dsn389d31ghbln45@4ax.com,
Mr.Nice. <mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> expelled:
>
> Also the book said there was another adjuster for the other shoe.. umm
> where??
>
> am I doing this all wrong?
>
> Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
> adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
> can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
>
FFS man, buy a book that shows you all this. IMO brakes are important enough
that if your knowledge is such that you can't adjust brakes without help
then leave them well alone until you have the reference material, knowledge
(and quite possibly expert help the first time).
As an aside, don't just adjust your rear brakes - pull the drums off, check
for fluid leaks and wash all the dust out before you reassemble and adjust
them. Doing this would also give you an idea of what the adjuster is
actually doing.


--
EMB
change two to number to reply

On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 13:18:26 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> wrote:

>As I was fiddling around trying to find a problem with my speedo cable
>I decided to adjust my handbrake while I was there.
>
>I found a square thingy on the back of the handbrake drum that the
>book mentioned and turned it a few times (no clue in the book which
>way to turn it) and it got tighter then slacker as I turned it, I
>think I set it as the handbrake lever doesn't need to come quite as
>far to hold the brake on but still too far, if I turned the adjuster
>another notch then the shoes hold on the drum after useing then
>releasing the handbrake.
>
>Also the book said there was another adjuster for the other shoe.. umm
>where??
>
>am I doing this all wrong?
>
>Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
>adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
>can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
>

It's easy. There's one square adjuster for the handbrake. The rear
drums usually have on adjuster, the fronts sometimes have two (if you
have drums on the front) The procedure is exactly the same.

Assuming you have removed the drum and checked for leaks, dusted out
etc etc:

Slacken the adjuster by turning it anticlockwise. Then, use one hand
to turn the brake drum, gradually turning the adjuster clockwise to
wind the drums in. The shoes should just be lightly rubbing on the
surface of the drum, you can feel this as you turn the drum.
Otherwise, a good rule of thumb is to wind the adjuster up untill the
drum is just very stiff to turn, or just locked, then back off two
notches ( you will feel the notches as you turn the adjuster.

The handbrake adjuster (small square peg) will have one notch per
quarter turn. If you can't turn it any further and you still need
further adjustment, renew the shoes. The handbrake should be fully
engaged with about 5-7 clicks on the handbrake lever.

The wheel adjusters (hex head, about 13mm or so) will have about 10
notches to the half turn - they are snail cam and if you turn them too
far the shoes will ping back to the lowest setting. If this happens
you need new shoes or possibly even drums, depending on wear.

Alex

Mr.Nice. wrote:

> As I was fiddling around trying to find a problem with my speedo cable
> I decided to adjust my handbrake while I was there.
>
> I found a square thingy on the back of the handbrake drum that the
> book mentioned and turned it a few times (no clue in the book which
> way to turn it) and it got tighter then slacker as I turned it, I
> think I set it as the handbrake lever doesn't need to come quite as
> far to hold the brake on but still too far, if I turned the adjuster
> another notch then the shoes hold on the drum after useing then
> releasing the handbrake.
>
> Also the book said there was another adjuster for the other shoe.. umm
> where??
>
> am I doing this all wrong?
>
> Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
> adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
> can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
>
> 1984 110, LT77.
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
You seem to have done the handbrake correctly - one square adjuster, adjust
clockwise to bring the shoes closer to the drum. Rear brakes have two
adjusters, hexagonal half inch front and back on the backing plate. Where
you can expect to tighten the handbrake adjuster one or more turns, the
rear brake adjusters (also clockwise to move the shoes up) will need much
less movement, and the notches are much less pronounced (see Alex's post).
The front discs are self adjusting.

On or around Wed, 30 Jun 2004 13:18:26 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>I found a square thingy on the back of the handbrake drum that the
>book mentioned and turned it a few times (no clue in the book which
>way to turn it) and it got tighter then slacker as I turned it, I
>think I set it as the handbrake lever doesn't need to come quite as
>far to hold the brake on but still too far, if I turned the adjuster
>another notch then the shoes hold on the drum after useing then
>releasing the handbrake.

the adjuster is a tapered square thing, you turn it 90 degrees at a time.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Pereant qui ante nos nostra dixerunt"
(confound the men who have made our remarks before us.)
Aelius Donatus (4th Cent.) [St. Jerome, Commentary on Ecclesiastes]

On or around Wed, 30 Jun 2004 13:18:26 +0100, Mr.Nice.
<mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>
>Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
>adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
>can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.


rear brakes on a 110 have 2 adjusters, both are snail cam things which have
about 3/4 turn of movement.

Personally, my technique was to do 'em with the brakes hard on. They're
very difficult to get right otherwise. wedge the brakes on with a suitable
bit of broomstick or something onto the pedal, having had the engine running
so there's some vacuum in the servo.

then crawl under the back, with yer 13mm ring spanner, and turn each
adjuster in turn clockwise until it comes up tight, then back it off
slightly, about half a "flat" on the hex.

check that the wheels turn freely afterwards.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"'Tis a mad world, my masters" John Taylor (1580-1633) Western Voyage, 1

Twas Thu, 1 Jul 2004 07:55:28 +1200 when "EMB" <embtwo@ihug.co.nz> put
finger to keyboard producing:

>In news:tib5e0h645msnp4d86dsn389d31ghbln45@4ax.com,
>Mr.Nice. <mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> expelled:
>>
>> Also the book said there was another adjuster for the other shoe.. umm
>> where??
>>
>> am I doing this all wrong?
>>
>> Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
>> adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
>> can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
>>
>FFS man, buy a book that shows you all this. IMO brakes are important enough
>that if your knowledge is such that you can't adjust brakes without help
>then leave them well alone until you have the reference material, knowledge
>(and quite possibly expert help the first time).
>As an aside, don't just adjust your rear brakes - pull the drums off, check
>for fluid leaks and wash all the dust out before you reassemble and adjust
>them. Doing this would also give you an idea of what the adjuster is
>actually doing.

I have the LR workshop manual and the haynes, neither are clear on
this point. I am generally competent but not done this one before.


Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
--
___________________________________________________________
"To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
www.mrnice.me.uk - www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
___________________________________________________________

Twas Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:28:45 +0100 when Austin Shackles
<austin@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:

>On or around Wed, 30 Jun 2004 13:18:26 +0100, Mr.Nice.
><mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
>>adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
>>can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
>
>
>rear brakes on a 110 have 2 adjusters, both are snail cam things which have
>about 3/4 turn of movement.
>
>Personally, my technique was to do 'em with the brakes hard on. They're
>very difficult to get right otherwise. wedge the brakes on with a suitable
>bit of broomstick or something onto the pedal, having had the engine running
>so there's some vacuum in the servo.
>
>then crawl under the back, with yer 13mm ring spanner, and turn each
>adjuster in turn clockwise until it comes up tight, then back it off
>slightly, about half a "flat" on the hex.
>
>check that the wheels turn freely afterwards.

Top tip Austin.
I shall pull the drums off first as per other advice.


Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
--
___________________________________________________________
"To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
www.mrnice.me.uk - www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
___________________________________________________________

On Thursday, in article
<q1j7e05uls18qifb08h2mvvvf8ar8n80sv@4ax.com>
mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk "Mr.Nice." wrote:

> Twas Thu, 1 Jul 2004 07:55:28 +1200 when "EMB" <embtwo@ihug.co.nz> put
> finger to keyboard producing:
>
> >In news:tib5e0h645msnp4d86dsn389d31ghbln45@4ax.com,
> >Mr.Nice. <mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> expelled:
> >>
> >> Also the book said there was another adjuster for the other shoe.. umm
> >> where??
> >>
> >> am I doing this all wrong?
> >>
> >> Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
> >> adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
> >> can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
> >>
> >FFS man, buy a book that shows you all this. IMO brakes are important enough
> >that if your knowledge is such that you can't adjust brakes without help
> >then leave them well alone until you have the reference material, knowledge
> >(and quite possibly expert help the first time).
> >As an aside, don't just adjust your rear brakes - pull the drums off, check
> >for fluid leaks and wash all the dust out before you reassemble and adjust
> >them. Doing this would also give you an idea of what the adjuster is
> >actually doing.
>
> I have the LR workshop manual and the haynes, neither are clear on
> this point. I am generally competent but not done this one before.

While the Haynes manual for a Series Land Rover is one of the better
examples, it shares with the workshop manuals a few assumptions about
what the mechanic knows about being a mechanic.

The information can be there to do quite major hobs, but then they don't
tell you which way to turn the mixture screw on the carburretor.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

On Thursday, in article
<45j7e0hj88tr1ovaakbvm2qc5gvb1lkklq@4ax.com>
mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk "Mr.Nice." wrote:

> Twas Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:28:45 +0100 when Austin Shackles
> <austin@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:
>
> >On or around Wed, 30 Jun 2004 13:18:26 +0100, Mr.Nice.
> ><mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
> >
> >>
> >>Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
> >>adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
> >>can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
> >
> >
> >rear brakes on a 110 have 2 adjusters, both are snail cam things which have
> >about 3/4 turn of movement.
> >
> >Personally, my technique was to do 'em with the brakes hard on. They're
> >very difficult to get right otherwise. wedge the brakes on with a suitable
> >bit of broomstick or something onto the pedal, having had the engine running
> >so there's some vacuum in the servo.
> >
> >then crawl under the back, with yer 13mm ring spanner, and turn each
> >adjuster in turn clockwise until it comes up tight, then back it off
> >slightly, about half a "flat" on the hex.
> >
> >check that the wheels turn freely afterwards.
>
> Top tip Austin.
> I shall pull the drums off first as per other advice.

I'd hesitate to agree with Austin about doing the adjustment with the
brakes hard on. The basic process in the Haynes and Workshop manuals
works without any such fuss, and done properly the brakes will come on
firmly and without excessive pedal travel.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

On or around Thu, 01 Jul 2004 10:10:07 +0100 (BST),
dbell@zhochaka.demon.co.uk ("David G. Bell") enlightened us thusly:

>On Thursday, in article
> <45j7e0hj88tr1ovaakbvm2qc5gvb1lkklq@4ax.com>
> mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk "Mr.Nice." wrote:
>
>> Twas Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:28:45 +0100 when Austin Shackles
>> <austin@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:
>>
>> >On or around Wed, 30 Jun 2004 13:18:26 +0100, Mr.Nice.
>> ><mr.nice@-nospam-clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>> >
>> >>
>> >>Also the rear drum brakes need sorting, I suspect same thing with an
>> >>adjuster thing but what does it look like? and how do they work? I
>> >>can't visualise what it does having not seen inside yet.
>> >
>> >
>> >rear brakes on a 110 have 2 adjusters, both are snail cam things which have
>> >about 3/4 turn of movement.
>> >
>> >Personally, my technique was to do 'em with the brakes hard on. They're
>> >very difficult to get right otherwise. wedge the brakes on with a suitable
>> >bit of broomstick or something onto the pedal, having had the engine running
>> >so there's some vacuum in the servo.
>> >
>> >then crawl under the back, with yer 13mm ring spanner, and turn each
>> >adjuster in turn clockwise until it comes up tight, then back it off
>> >slightly, about half a "flat" on the hex.
>> >
>> >check that the wheels turn freely afterwards.
>>
>> Top tip Austin.
>> I shall pull the drums off first as per other advice.
>
>I'd hesitate to agree with Austin about doing the adjustment with the
>brakes hard on. The basic process in the Haynes and Workshop manuals
>works without any such fuss, and done properly the brakes will come on
>firmly and without excessive pedal travel.

I found that the snail cams push the shoes out of place when turned, and can
also be difficult to turn with the pressure of the springs on 'em. both of
these can lead to them not being adjusted optimally. Putting the brakes on
takes the load off the adjusters, they turn easily. When they come up
tight, you back them off slightly just as you do anyway with most brake
adjusters.

Just don't omit checking the wheels turn afterwards, in case you've got one
too tight.

doing it that way got then more accurate than other methods, IME on my 110.

The old type series brakes, ISTR, had a single adjuster at the bottom, but
they're not the same. These are the big drums as fitted to the back of the
early 110 with the 2 snail-cam adjusters.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"'Tis a mad world, my masters" John Taylor (1580-1633) Western Voyage, 1