pos

pos

Well-Known Member
Good evening,

I changed the gasket on my oil sump today, or rather put one in should I say. I took all the bolts out and prised the sump off and there was nothing! Just a ****y little waz of silicon sealant dribbled around the plate, no wonder it's been leaking. Anyways, all is done to good old fashioned British Standards now. Ive got a layer of loctite silicon gasket sealant between the gasket and the sump, and a layer of sealant between the gasket and the engine. That should do the trick me thinks, or have I over done it?

-Pos
 
pos said:
Good evening,

I changed the gasket on my oil sump today, or rather put one in should I say. I took all the bolts out and prised the sump off and there was nothing! Just a ****y little waz of silicon sealant dribbled around the plate, no wonder it's been leaking. Anyways, all is done to good old fashioned British Standards now. Ive got a layer of loctite silicon gasket sealant between the gasket and the sump, and a layer of sealant between the gasket and the engine. That should do the trick me thinks, or have I over done it?

-Pos
Click to expand...

Sounds good! I dont think you can over do it when it comes to leaks!

Better safe than sorry:)
 
Ya can't beat doing it to British Standard (BS) or better - NEVER do it to BOS though (Bog Of ****e) ;)
 
There aren't going to be many British standards left in a few years cos half the population isn't british. Something needs to be done, we're getting seriously effed over
 
Don't want to tread on anyones toes as I'm still a noobie around here but you may have overdone it on the sealant.

Don't wish to be negative but...

If you've used too much and it's oozed out where you can see it, what about where you can't see it i.e. inside the sump? I hope I'm wrong here but bits could come loose and float around in your oil until they get sucked up and block your oilways.
If you were careful and put the sealant closer to the outer edge or if it only just seeped out, you should be ok, have a good seal and no leak.

But then it wouldn't be a Landy if it doesn't mark it's territory.
 
Nope, reckon you've a valid point, if it oozed out on the outside it probably oozed out on the inside too!

It's good stuff, but a sparingly spread coating is all it needs & if it was a cork type gasket a nip up to the low torque setting was all it shoulda needed too.

Wouldn't lose sleep over it, but great gloops of the stuff are not a good idea!
 
ay dear, that had crossed my mind. I was careful to get it as close to the outside as possible, and the actual gasket is kellogs cardboard box style paper, not cork, so it's back on pretty tight. I'm going to tell myself that it hasn't seeped on the inside!

-Pos
 
It should be OK even if a dollop drops inside.

IF it gets past the strainer the pump should handle it and it will get stopped in the oil filter before is does any harm.

That's the theory anyway ...

CharlesY
 
I'm with everyone that sez don't over do it. All you need is the thinnest smear to make the gasket stick. By rights if you've got decent gasket paper you shunt need any sealant. An for casings that aren't subject to pressure and don't have oil splooshing around behind them, like timing cases, remote gear housings and things then a smear of waterproof grease is as good as owt.
 
Through work ive rebuilt a couple of Jap Yanmar engines that go in takuchi mini diggers, in the complete gasket kit there isnt a sump gasket at all. All thats used is a thin bead of silicon and havent had problems, but i have seen a big 6 cyl DAF engine destroyed because it was rebuilt with so much sealent it eventualy ended up in the sump and blocked the oil pick up strainer,( just for a bit of worry the last bit ) !

If you let the joint set i doubt it will ever cause problems.
 
i have to say i do concurr.. just the thinest smear is all that is required unless the mating surfaces are badly pitted then you'd might lik eto ust a tad more...
 
Bouch84 said:
Through work ive rebuilt a couple of Jap Yanmar engines that go in takuchi mini diggers, in the complete gasket kit there isnt a sump gasket at all. All thats used is a thin bead of silicon and havent had problems, but i have seen a big 6 cyl DAF engine destroyed because it was rebuilt with so much sealent it eventualy ended up in the sump and blocked the oil pick up strainer,( just for a bit of worry the last bit ) !

If you let the joint set i doubt it will ever cause problems.
Click to expand...

Take care .... because a great lump of SET gasket goo won't do the engine's innards the least bit of good.

That's one reason why a pre-cut paper gasket is so common.

CharlesY
 
Not meaning to sound stupid (I will anyway so I don't worry about it) :) but

I thought the 300/200tdi sump didn't have a gasket and you just used high temp sealent? Are there gasket 'conversion kits' around? I got a tiny bit of oil coming from the back of my sump and plan on doing it in the next month or so, would prefer to use a gasket if I can get a professionally cut one. Allthough Mr.Haynes tells me there is no gasket and to just use sealent...
 
Following the various comments on this topic I decided to sort out my very leaky sump. And Im glad I did.
I had no gasket and the thinest of what looked like bathroom sealant that had ****ed everywhere apart from where it should have been. I did get a proper gasket to the tune of £12 and sealed it with (a little) Hylomar. I have left it to settle for the past 2 days to be sure. After torquing all the nuts I didnt have any major ooze, so after following your advice I think the jobs a good un.

cheers
 
i did mine a month or 2 back and the ****er has blown again in the same spot it leaked from before! :( not happy.
 
GRUNT said:
I'm with everyone that sez don't over do it. All you need is the thinnest smear to make the gasket stick. By rights if you've got decent gasket paper you shunt need any sealant. An for casings that aren't subject to pressure and don't have oil splooshing around behind them, like timing cases, remote gear housings and things then a smear of waterproof grease is as good as owt.
Click to expand...

I must say I agree with that.

But be SELECTIVE!

For example, on rocker covers, it can be a smart idea to goo the gasket only on one side. This makes it easy to position the gasket and let the goo begin to set long before you fit the rocker cover, so the gasket doesn't slip out and cause grief. Later, when you lift the rocker cover, the gasket will stay stuck to one side, but not the other, and you will be able to lift the rocker cover easily AND PUT IT BACK without NEEDING to fit a new gasket.

You might not be thinking about routinely dropping your sump, so seal it up tight.

It's just a question of looking ahead, thinking, and making use of experience.

CharlesY
 
pos said:
Good evening,

I changed the gasket on my oil sump today, or rather put one in should I say. I took all the bolts out and prised the sump off and there was nothing! Just a ****y little waz of silicon sealant dribbled around the plate, no wonder it's been leaking. Anyways, all is done to good old fashioned British Standards now. Ive got a layer of loctite silicon gasket sealant between the gasket and the sump, and a layer of sealant between the gasket and the engine. That should do the trick me thinks, or have I over done it?

-Pos
Click to expand...

VW sump sealer is bloody good and sets properly, we get a lot of high mileage taxi's in and none of them leak. I know Turner Engineering use liquid gasket on their engines, liquid gaskets are the way forward. Sili gasket tends to be not very good with oil or petrol contact and it doesn't set hard so any sealant that has oozed out on the sump side will drop into the sump and possibly restrict the oil pick strainer, like the other chaps have said, use sparingly.

Riggaz

Riggaz
 
CharlesY said:
Take care .... because a great lump of SET gasket goo won't do the engine's innards the least bit of good.

That's one reason why a pre-cut paper gasket is so common.

CharlesY
Click to expand...

Good advice, sili gasket doesn't set if it starts blocking oil pick up = disaster

Riggaz
 
According to the bible that is Haynes. It suggests that the bolts should be re-tourqed after a short period of time after the initial repair.
Is this just putting off replacing the gasket again???
 
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