mick the builder · Dec 7, 2018

Ive sandblasted the frame, gave it two coats of red oxide on the back side and primed the front and pop riveted it it back together Sanded down the skin both sides with a DA. Etch primed the gave it a few coats of hi build primer / filler to fill the scratches.
wet flated and de-greased, Time for base coat, two coats on the underside, lovely. First mist coat on the face side and it reacted. Feck it, wet sanded again and gave it another coat of etch primer. No problems so hit it again with degreaser and base coat. Feck me, its crazed up again. Im doing no different to how ive sprayed the rest of the vehicle but its reacting for some reason.

Any tips from any sprayers,

bluehaze · Dec 8, 2018

One of my doors did exactly the same. Three years later the paint is starting to flake on it. I don't know why because it is exactly the same as the rest of the parts.

Not much help Mick, sorry. But I do symphathise.

Britcyclerider · Dec 8, 2018

Try an isolating primer. Apply it thinly, do not flat them apply topcoat. Used to be yellow in colour and has got me out of trouble loads of times, especially when painting over synthetics.

flat · Dec 8, 2018

I don’t know sorry but I painted my bonnet and had a nightmare getting it flat. I was rollering and got ever panel pretty much smooth but the bonnet was really hard to do and it still isn’t satisfactory!

mick 1986 · Dec 8, 2018

mick the builder said:
Ive sandblasted the frame, gave it two coats of red oxide on the back side and primed the front and pop riveted it it back together Sanded down the skin both sides with a DA. Etch primed the gave it a few coats of hi build primer / filler to fill the scratches.
wet flated and de-greased, Time for base coat, two coats on the underside, lovely. First mist coat on the face side and it reacted. Feck it, wet sanded again and gave it another coat of etch primer. No problems so hit it again with degreaser and base coat. Feck me, its crazed up again. Im doing no different to how ive sprayed the rest of the vehicle but its reacting for some reason. Any tips from any sprayers,

When I painted my defender, over the last few months, I found a few pieces of alloy that wouldn’t take the primer at all. I wasn’t using cheap etch either, I was using Upol Acid #8.

Thinking back, I had an issue on the bonnet where the primer reacted with the 2K. It looked fine after primer, waited around an hour or so, and top coated. I had done this on every other panel. It reacted, so I sanded the reaction area back to primer, reapplied the primer and left it overnight, or maybe 48hours I can’t really remember. I thought the primer may not have cured fully in that area. Flat back and repainted. It came out fine the second time.

mick the builder · Dec 8, 2018

mick 1986 said:
When I painted my defender, over the last few months, I found a few pieces of alloy that wouldn’t take the primer at all. I wasn’t using cheap etch either, I was using Upol Acid #8.

Thinking back, I had an issue on the bonnet where the primer reacted with the 2K. It looked fine after primer, waited around an hour or so, and top coated. I had done this on every other panel. It reacted, so I sanded the reaction area back to primer, reapplied the primer and left it overnight, or maybe 48hours I can’t really remember. I thought the primer may not have cured fully in that area. Flat back and repainted. It came out fine the second time.

I think your right there .I flated it back this morning. I misted it, let it flash off then gave it another 2 coats. It reacted again in a couple of places where I went a bit heavy. I think it was a combination of cold damp garage and too heavy a coat on a wet 1St coat. Both drying at different speeds. Oh well, wet and dry coming out again . Always the same, when you rush something, it takes twice as long.

mick 1986 · Dec 8, 2018

mick the builder said:
I think your right there .I flated it back this morning. I misted it, let it flash off then gave it another 2 coats. It reacted again in a couple of places where I went a bit heavy. I think it was a combination of cold damp garage and too heavy a coat on a wet 1St coat. Both drying at different speeds. Oh well, wet and dry coming out again . Always the same, when you rush something, it takes twice as long.

I know that feeling well! I have rushed 2-3 panels, the bonnet included in that, and we only end up doing them again. It’s quicker in the long run to go slow and take our time. Let everything fully dry and then top coat.

Hicap phill · Dec 8, 2018

This time of year is crap for damp.
Don't use gas to warm up the spray area it gives off moisture.
I sheet up the garage to a smaller booth size & use lecky heat lamps on gentle & this warms up the panels.

If you still can't sort the bonnet paint find some checker plate

mick the builder · Dec 8, 2018

Hicap phill said:
This time of year is crap for damp.
Don't use gas to warm up the spray area it gives off moisture.
I sheet up the garage to a smaller booth size & use lecky heat lamps on gentle & this warms up the panels.

If you still can't sort the bonnet paint find some checker plate

DONE.
Went out and flated the affected area again, de greased it and gave it 5 mist coats. Let it flash off between coats with the help of a hot air gun. I never use gas or fuel blowers because of that very reason. I think I've got away with it , time will tell . It's very rainy and damp here so fingers crossed it won't Bloom. Clear coat tomorrow , push it outside to get on with the doors and make room for lift.

.

mick the builder

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bluehaze

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flat

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mick 1986

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mick the builder

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mick 1986

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Hicap phill

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