JCH

Member
Hello all, I upraded from a P38 to an L322 last September and all seemed weel until recently when I have started having niggling issues, the latest ofwhich is the heater blower has stopped working. I have checked the fuses etc and they all seem fine. Do anyone have any suggestion as to what else to check before taking it to the main dealer?
 
If the lights still appear around the dial then it will be a final stage resistor fault. The FSR costs around £40 from your LR dealer and you can fit it yourself (though it's a fiddly job).
 
Bemble, thanks for this. Where would I locate the FSR? When you say fiddly, could a pretty adequate ammateur do it or does it need some skill and a huge tool kit?
 
There's virtually nothing required in terms of tools, it's just that the FSR is hidden away in the heating system and it's a pain to reach - especially if you're a big chap like me. You're practically working blind.

It's one of those jobs that takes an hour the first time you do it and three minutes if you ever have to do it again!

Hopefully the photos on the attached thread will be useful :

RangeRovers.net • View topic - Replaced the final stage resitor
 
Bemble, Thanks for the help. That did the trick. Yes, it was quite a fiddle but it paid off and all is working again. Thanks.
 
I have a 2005 Range Rover sport and the fan blower has stopped working first question is this model a l322 I read a lot about and secondly where is the fan resistor I seen a lot of videos but always a lhd and mine is a rhd
 
So, you downgraded from your P38 and now you have an L322 and have electrical "gremlins"? How strange. ;)
Lots of help on here from other L322 sufferers. Water in the electronics, CAN Bus/ K-Bus confusions FSR fires, all the fun of the fair.
But the lads and lasses on here are brilliant. There is not other LR community as good as this.
 
So, you downgraded from your P38 and now you have an L322 and have electrical "gremlins"? How strange. ;)
Lots of help on here from other L322 sufferers. Water in the electronics, CAN Bus/ K-Bus confusions FSR fires, all the fun of the fair.
But the lads and lasses on here are brilliant. There is not other LR community as good as this.
Downgraded?? An L322 is a different model then? What model if any is mine please
 
Downgraded?? An L322 is a different model then? What model if any is mine please
Is a little joke that we of the P38a owning fraternity have about our "later model" siblings from the LR stable. Anything after the P38 is a "downgrade" ;)
 
Is a little joke that we of the P38a owning fraternity have about our "later model" siblings from the LR stable. Anything after the P38 is a "downgrade" ;)
Oh ok!! Lol Well is my downgraded sport also called a l322 or is that a different model?
 
Is a little joke that we of the P38a owning fraternity have about our "later model" siblings from the LR stable. Anything after the P38 is a "downgrade" ;)

That's funny, we of the Classic owning fraternity tend to view anything after the last Classic as a downgrade :rolleyes:
I'm going behind the sofa.
 
Actually the rrs is a 320 if I remember correctly the 322 is only the RR:)

The sport is more like the D3/4, Covered differently.

Mr @gstuart is your man.

J
 
Hi

The sport from 2005 to 2013 is a L320 , from 2023 it’s a L494

Have u first tried the self test , heres how it’s done

Here the self test procedure:-

"With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).

The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.

If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.

To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.

Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.

If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself."


See how u get on, if still nothing Plse let us know , I’ve got a D3 so virtually the same setup and can go from there

Assume you’ve tested the fuses , will the fan work on manual or auto plse, or completely dead
 
Also location of fan control module but won’t have to go there yet

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