RisforRacingnotReverse · Oct 22, 2020

Hey guys! Does anyone know how to get to the blend motors on a 2000 Range Rover p38 2.5tdi? My ungrateful cow has decided that no cold air is to come out of the divers side. Yes it's winter so it doesn't matter but when summer comes'a'knockin it's going to be, how do you say, slightly inconvenient to say the least! I've read that the little worm gear can jump and stop it from working. But bear in mind that my polen filters date back to the Jurassic era and have NEVER been changed, and appeare to also harbour a civilization of dust and other contaminants. My dad and I have just replaced all 4 airbags and other bits and bobs so she's really taking the ****!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2020

it may not work for you, but for me the left blend motor was stuck and would not move. I unplugged the connector from HEVAC unit and briefly applied power to the correct terminals to make the flap move. it has worked ever since! no removal required.
If the potentiometer (variable resistor) in motor has broken, you have no choice and must remove the motor and fix or replace. the right motor is easier to get to, the left, very hard

DanClarke · Oct 22, 2020

Don't laugh but.....
When the dreaded book symbol appears on the A/C display panel it is usually because a blend motor has "stuck".
I have found that switching the ignition (without starting) on & off rapidly and repeatedly (Position 0-1-2 and back again ) often "jump-starts" the stuck motor and the book symbol disappears and the motor/flap works again.

tomcat59alan · Oct 22, 2020

RisforRacingnotReverse said:
Hey guys! Does anyone know how to get to the blend motors on a 2000 Range Rover p38 2.5tdi? My ungrateful cow has decided that no cold air is to come out of the divers side. Yes it's winter so it doesn't matter but when summer comes'a'knockin it's going to be, how do you say, slightly inconvenient to say the least! I've read that the little worm gear can jump and stop it from working. But bear in mind that my polen filters date back to the Jurassic era and have NEVER been changed, and appeare to also harbour a civilization of dust and other contaminants. My dad and I have just replaced all 4 airbags and other bits and bobs so she's really taking the ****!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Doesn't Mark know?

tomcat59alan · Oct 22, 2020

DanClarke said:
Don't laugh but.....
When the dreaded book symbol appears on the A/C display panel it is usually because a blend motor has "stuck".
I have found that switching the ignition (without starting) on & off rapidly and repeatedly (Position 0-1-2 and back again ) often "jump-starts" the stuck motor and the book symbol disappears and the motor/flap works again.

You tell me this NOW

DanClarke · Oct 22, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
You tell me this NOW

Ohhhhhhhhhh........ sorry. My bad.

RangeRoller dt · Oct 23, 2020

Does a self calibration every few hundred turns of key so one day...lol. Sometimes the lube has dried out after 20years. Still a bitch to get to but worth lubricating

Mark Piercy · Oct 23, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
Doesn't Mark know?

I can't say this too loud but..... I've never needed to touch mine...

RangeRoller dt · Oct 23, 2020

The boy gorra learn, no better way than doing it yourself.
if it all goes tits up you can pull the ‘dad I’m the bestest p38 son’ card

kermit_rr · Oct 23, 2020

RangeRoller dt said:
Does a self calibration every few hundred turns of key so one day...lol. Sometimes the lube has dried out after 20years. Still a bitch to get to but worth lubricating

mine didn't, i dont know why. it was stuck at some random mid position and completely dead, nanocom wouldn't move it, like it had no power.
been fine ever since i powered it directly

RangeRoller dt · Oct 23, 2020

i remember. Mine won’t change to cold sometimes I just leave it and few ignition ons later you hear it squeal job jobbed

Mark Piercy · Oct 23, 2020

kermit_rr said:
it may not work for you, but for me the left blend motor was stuck and would not move. I unplugged the connector from HEVAC unit and briefly applied power to the correct terminals to make the flap move. it has worked ever since! no removal required.
If the potentiometer (variable resistor) in motor has broken, you have no choice and must remove the motor and fix or replace. the right motor is easier to get to, the left, very hard

DanClarke said:
Don't laugh but.....
When the dreaded book symbol appears on the A/C display panel it is usually because a blend motor has "stuck".
I have found that switching the ignition (without starting) on & off rapidly and repeatedly (Position 0-1-2 and back again ) often "jump-starts" the stuck motor and the book symbol disappears and the motor/flap works again.

Well try both of these I think.
Thank you for your suggestions

pwood999 · Oct 23, 2020

Strangely mine also did this yesterday. Book symbol still on today, so pulled out my cubby box & wiggled the motor connector. Much easier to access since I modified the centre dash. Then turned ignition on & off a few times, and book symbol gone.

tomcat59alan · Oct 23, 2020

pwood999 said:
Strangely mine also did this yesterday. Book symbol still on today, so pulled out my cubby box & wiggled the motor connector. Much easier to access since I modified the centre dash. Then turned ignition on & off a few times, and book symbol gone.

View attachment 221815

That means you've broken something

pwood999 · Oct 23, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
That means you've broken something

Nah. That connector on the HEVAC has been intermittent for ages, but mostly works. I think it's the sockets in the housing occasionally loose on the pins, because all the PCB joints have been re-soldered & the connector pins cleaned

Blobthebuilder · Oct 23, 2020

Take out clocks on drivers side and can get to motor

Mark Piercy · Oct 25, 2020

Laddo took the clocks out and we did see the distribution motor and the hot/cold motor below it.... Right behind the air duct that drops to the floor...
We'll try pulling the hevac and jump-starting the motor. Thanks for your help peeps.

RisforRacingnotReverse · Oct 25, 2020

Thanks for your help guys! I looked at the donor car we've got for "inspiration" and saw where the motor was so I can get to it. I read a tutorial by an Australian guy and he dismantled the dash and center console to cut an opening with a plasterboard saw to get to the motor. So when I saw where the motor was (behind the clocks) I was relieved I tried turning it off and on again quickly but it's electronic gremlins reared their heads and it drained the battery (another problem i need to look at)

tomcat59alan · Oct 25, 2020

RisforRacingnotReverse said:
Thanks for your help guys! I looked at the donor car we've got for "inspiration" and saw where the motor was so I can get to it. I read a tutorial by an Australian guy and he dismantled the dash and center console to cut an opening with a plasterboard saw to get to the motor. So when I saw where the motor was (behind the clocks) I was relieved I tried turning it off and on again quickly but it's electronic gremlins reared their heads and it drained the battery (another problem i need to look at)

Time to butter up the "old man" again?

RangeRoller dt · Oct 26, 2020

There is a procedure LR introduced where they cut a circular hole behind the centre console side panel to get to the heater matrix. Still damn tight in there though not too bad pull half the dash out, all fits in the boot if you don’t go full Enery and pull the flippin lot out

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