pwood999

pwood999

Well-Known Member
Full Member
So last night while driving to Fleet, my Green P38 completely cut out a few times, although only for a second or two. All electrics dies, but came back, so I thought fusebox again ?? Luckily it recovered each time, so continued on & got it home without requiring recovery.

Chekc all the battery & fusebox main terminal. Somehow the 12V cable from battery to fusebox is loose in the clamp. Clearly either the clamp needs replacing, or the cable re-soldering ?

Wondering what clamp types others use ?
 
Proper crimped cable lug that bolts onto the battery terminal clamp
IMG_20250219_124531.jpg
 
1739966575169.jpeg

I've got a set like this on mine and some on Elliotts bus as well.
I'd also found corrosion inside the original positive connector 🤯
 
In the past when I was in my early 20’s I broke the terminal clamp trying to wire in a sub. Popped to Halfords and picking up one of these and it sorted it out. Depending on cable length you may want to strip back some insulation to get a better purchase on the core.
 
P38Seb said:
In the past when I was in my early 20’s I broke the terminal clamp trying to wire in a sub. Popped to Halfords and picking up one of these and it sorted it out. Depending on cable length you may want to strip back some insulation to get a better purchase on the core.
Click to expand...

Check that it's not got green inside the clamp or you should get a new cable too ...
 
This is what I have found:

1739982124777.png




For the cable crimps, I have a hydraulic crimp tool, but need to get some crimps large enough for the cables. If I go this route will also do the salt & vinegar copper cleaning & probably solder the ends as well.

Also have a pair of these, but need larger versions, with 2 or 3 cable options like Mark's above..

1739982269258.png
 
If you are able to make a proper crimp on cable that size do not solder it.
On large connections like that that see vibrations the solder forms micro cracks that are terrible for electrical connections.

Rather put in some effort to keep moisture out either some form of resin after the crimp has been made or Atum heat shrink(thats what i use) its heat shrink with glue inside that melts when heated.

With a crimp connection that stays dry inside it will last the rest of the cars lifetime.
 
25sqmm is 4awg

Just confirm the 25sqmm. Im abit unsure of that value.

sqmm is millimetres squared or mm^2. Its just abit easier to type.
 
Yes I thought that as well. Ordered a pair & will see tomorrow. At least I can return them if they don't fit !!
 
  • Like
Reactions: FEI
pwood999 said:
So last night while driving to Fleet, my Green P38 completely cut out a few times, although only for a second or two. All electrics dies, but came back, so I thought fusebox again ?? Luckily it recovered each time, so continued on & got it home without requiring recovery.

Chekc all the battery & fusebox main terminal. Somehow the 12V cable from battery to fusebox is loose in the clamp. Clearly either the clamp needs replacing, or the cable re-soldering ?

Wondering what clamp types others use ?
Click to expand...

MrGorsky's was loose so I made a copper spacer with a piece of copper pipe from my plumbing stuff.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
2003 TD4 Battery negative clamp
Replies
1
Views
280
Arctic2
Arctic2
Kevlandau
Battery cable clamp to kill switch
Replies
16
Views
1K
dag019
dag019
Flossie
Duchess is out the garage, cute Morris is in.
Replies
3
Views
813
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
M
Battery draining
Replies
13
Views
3K
steve2286w
steve2286w
J
Freelander 1 TD4 mini fusebox in engine bay?
Replies
5
Views
4K
Jayridium
J